Restart the rebuild

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ACME SS said:
I'm thinking top means cylinder head side, not slot position but I could be wrong. The taper on the inside top is designed to take combustion gas pressure and apply an outward sealing force. We rebuilt Quincy compressors at the nuke plant I used to work at and they described that in their manual and in Quincy's case, they had the dot on the top. They called the dot a "pip". I don't know why one ring would have a pip and the other say top unless maybe that is supposed to be the top ring for that set?
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Well on the Hastings rings I just installed in my antique Harley-Davidson racing bike, number one ring as in actual top, was unidirectional due to it being either square or bevel two different ways I really cannot remember plus it was the one with the molly on it. Number two ring as in second down from cylinder head side had a pip or a DOT locating that top up facing the sky the little bubble was facing down the oil control rings do not matter
 
What's everyone's idea of removing #1-4 main caps and doing a bearing check? Only thing I didnt want to touch the rear main and bugger up the seal. So not sure if leaving the rear snugged up while others were removed. I guess I could remove one at a time?
 
4spdragtop said:
What's everyone's idea of removing #1-4 main caps and doing a bearing check? Only thing I didnt want to touch the rear main and bugger up the seal. So not sure if leaving the rear snugged up while others were removed. I guess I could remove one at a time?
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What's a bearing check Steve?

You can't plastigauge because it's all lubed, and you will only be able to see 1/2 of the bearing shell without pulling the crank. In your original post it looked like you did everything meticulously when you installed the crank......So why pull it apart? If you are super super concerned, I would sacrifice the rear main and start over. Just my $0.02.
 
Yes I dont want to remove crank if I can help it. Seeing "something" on 3 rod bearings doesnt make me comfy tho. I thought i was meticulous in cleaning but obviously not. I'll pull 1 main cap at a time and leave the rear alone. Dbl chk endplay again once it's all torqued back up. Got 3 new rod bearings so I'll plastigauge them to be safe.

CFD244 said:
What's a bearing check Steve?

You can't plastigauge because it's all lubed, and you will only be able to see 1/2 of the bearing shell without pulling the crank. In your original post it looked like you did everything meticulously when you installed the crank......So why pull it apart? If you are super super concerned, I would sacrifice the rear main and start over. Just my $0.02.
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Yes, documenting and for advice purposes. I've got everything bought(I think), now it's just time/labor. The biggest part is finishing up my DIY port job on x heads. Gotta crunch #'s too for compression.
My initial thread build starts out on page 7 with this engine. Took me 7 pages to get my $hit together lol. But I've documented quite a few numbers/weights/specs in the initial thread.
Thanks guys. :thumbsup:
Plan today is check main caps, endplay. Plastigauge 3 rod bearings...
Righty Tighty said:
Steve, are you going to document the entire build in this thread? I'd love to follow along.
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I cracked 2 main caps off (1 at a time) and they both looked good.
Plastigauge 3 rod bearings. PITA but got them done. All approx 0.0015-17.
340 spec is .001-.002"
Cleaned up pistons, now onto re-installing.

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:lol: Told Ya!! A work of art :thumbsup:

Thinking out loud here....Maybe @toolmanmike can get pages 7 on from 273 302 318 340 build ,your last thread, and preface this thread for the big picture. Would make following along that much better. You have some great info in the old thread. Just a thought. Not sure if it can be even done.
 
Left bank in. I'll tackle pass side tomorrow. Pic of my piston check list.
Dirty nerve wracking job lol.
Coated cylinder bores with ATF. Dunked piston in 15W40 with Lucas zinc.

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Pistons all in, had to redo a couple, found the issue with #2 bearing, there was a slight "lip" on the rod mating surface (hope that makes sense).
Just took a slight file to it and removed the lip.
Camshaft, oil pump, tc and gears next.
Also want to double check how far outta the hole I am.
Thanks.

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Was able to measure pistons #1,7,2,8 for height proud of the deck.
In my other thread I only measured 1 and got .034". Not sure if either time was more accurate than the other. Not too concerned as I'm not trying to squeeze anything drastic out of it.
Both #1 and #7 were 0.027" proud of block, #2 was 0.028" and #8 was 0.030"
I'll use 0.030" for calls to be on the safe side.
Installed cam and oil pump drive. Used wrench a bolt and washers to balance cam while installing.
Soaking the chain for new JP tc gearset.

While digging for fuel pump eccentric I noticed I'm shy a cam plate and bolt with hole.:BangHead: I'll be posting a want ad for that...
Have to go thru new M72 oil pump and install MP spring kit.

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Brought this info over from other thread.
Piston height above deck is now .030"
head gasket bore is 4.180"
hg compressed is 0.039"
How is that value entered into formula for compression ratio?
Link to wallace calculator
Compression Ratio Calculator - Wallace Racing
4spdragtop said:
So dbl checked my piston height to be sure. I get .034" outta the hole. So with the new head gasket I mentioned above being 0.0345" thick, does that essentially put me at zero deck? Piston to valve problems ?
Here' values I used on UEM pistons site for calculations.
Cyl bore 4.07"
Stroke 3.31"
Rod length 6.123
Head gasket thk .034"
Head gasket bore dia (I ball parked at 4.100"??) Suggestions?
Cyl head volume 70cc
Valve relief 8cc
Piston sits .034" outta the hole.
I get 10.04 Compression and 7.20 Dynamic.
Seem about right? I think I'm maxed as far as I wanna go with compression with today' gas.
Anyone see issues with piston to valve?
Also head gasket suggestions? Or help id'ing the new black ones?
Thanks
Steve
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4spdragtop said:
Was able to measure pistons #1,7,2,8 for height proud of the deck.
In my other thread I only measured 1 and got .034". Not sure if either time was more accurate than the other. Not too concerned as I'm not trying to squeeze anything drastic out of it.
Both #1 and #7 were 0.027" proud of block, #2 was 0.028" and #8 was 0.030"
I'll use 0.030" for calls to be on the safe side.
Installed cam and oil pump drive. Used wrench a bolt and washers to balance cam while installing.
Soaking the chain for new JP tc gearset.

While digging for fuel pump eccentric I noticed I'm shy a cam plate and bolt with hole.:BangHead: I'll be posting a want ad for that...
Have to go thru new M72 oil pump and install MP spring kit.

View attachment 1716018917

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View attachment 1716018920
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What kind of timing chain set is this?
 
Yeah it was a head scratcher, I cc'd the valve reliefs and I believe approx 8cc. Trying to calculate for the dome is a little more involved.
Heres some more info I found on Moparts.
Quote
Re: Sealed Power 2332P and TRW L2316F pistons for Mopar 340 engines.

I just took the time to measure the valve relief volume (including the centering hole) in these pistons. This value is 5.1 cc.
Next I measured and calculated the volume of the dome at 0.018” deck height above the block, allowing for the chamfer at the edge, volume = 3.464 cc
The net volume of the valve relief is 1.636cc.
So, the net of the dome and valve relief is the equivalent of a full flat top piston with a deck height of 0.008” down the hole, for calculation purposes.
With a combustion chamber volume of 72 cc and a standard Fel Pro compostion gasket thickness of 0.039”, the actual top of the piston at 0.018” above the block. the C.R. is 9.604:1.
This should work fine with premium pump gas.
The 340 I'm doing right now is for a restoration engine, built to factory specs as much as possible.
End quote
Heres the thread the quote came from.
Old TRW forged 340 piston #2332P
CFD244 said:
The piston specs should include the dome volume. Include that number as a negative in the calculation.
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Do these numbers help? Piston head volume says +7.5 cc's. That would be plugged into the equation as -7.5 as it reduces combustion chamber volume. I would think that it takes the dome, and the reliefs into account??

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Those aren't technically domed pistons. They're flat tops, with valve reliefs and an obvious bevel around the top edge. The 7.5 cc's should take the valve reliefs, recessed circle in the middle, and perimeter bevel all into account. I could be wrong, but I believe you'd enter the 7.5 as a positive number since it's added volume. The amount that the flat piston surface is above the deck should be entered as a negative number. You did it right in the calculator posted in post #46. Just adjust the piston volume to 7.5 instead of 8 - which won't move the needle much.

If you're deck height is actually -0.030", you're going to want a thicker head gasket than 0.039".
 
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