Restomod or Original OEM style?? - Feedback Appreciated!

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BigB6958 said:
Been doing lots of research and hoping the smart folks on here have experience that can lead me down the right path. I want to replace my front suspension and steering on my '67 Dart GT convertible. I don't think it has ever been touched before (manual steering and drum brakes still) so I am sure new parts will be welcomed. But, I am unsure if I want to go and replace the old with new OEM style, or completely replace everything with tubular and rack/pinion. I plan on driving it a lot when done both on the highway and cruising. I want a high quality driving experience that would be as good as possible when compared to newer cars. I have read multiple articles and watched tons of YouTube vids, and there seems to be some folks that are on the restomod side and others that say replacing with original style equipment will be good enough. Lots of opinions.

If I am going to do restomod I will do a full QA1 or RMS type of unit - full configured and bolt-in. But that's a lot of cheddar. So any and all feedback is appreciated. Thanks ina dvance!

B
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Sounds to me like you don't intend to do any track or autocross. Why spend money where you don't need to? There's an easy recipe to make your car feel completely different. (with all new bushings of course)
Borgenson steering box
1.03" or larger t-Bars
sway bar
Bilstein or better shocks
Disc brakes
And I'll also suggest frame connectors since it is a convertible.
If you reach out to Peter Bergman, I'm sure he will tell you the same.

I don't think you need tubular UCAs, LCA stiffening plates, K-member stiffening, etc. That will be overkill and wasted money for your intended use of the car.
 
Personally I would skip the power brakes, a properly set up manual disc/drum configuration provides plenty of stopping power for these light a bodies. My brother has a 68 Dart GT with power disc/drum brakes, I had a 70 Dart and two 75 Dart Sports, all with manual disc/drum setup that worked as well or better. You could add rear disc brakes if you want to increase the stopping power without the loss of space under the hood for the booster.
That 68 Dart GT has a 318/727 combination with aluminum heads and tips the scales at 3300 lbs.

Just my .02.
 
racerjoe said:
Sounds to me like you don't intend to do any track or autocross. Why spend money where you don't need to? There's an easy recipe to make your car feel completely different. (with all new bushings of course)
Borgenson steering box
1.03" or larger t-Bars
sway bar
Bilstein or better shocks
Disc brakes
And I'll also suggest frame connectors since it is a convertible.
If you reach out to Peter Bergman, I'm sure he will tell you the same.

I don't think you need tubular UCAs, LCA stiffening plates, K-member stiffening, etc. That will be overkill and wasted money for your intended use of the car.
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Just my observations having been down both roads..

I would agree with most of this but pay attention to the following :

1. Check the factory K Member for signs of fatigue, the pivot points for the lower control arms and the mounting points for the steering box. If you want to visually check , get someone to sit in the car and turn the steering wheel full left to right and see if the box moves. You will see the box deflect if the k frame is weak there.

2. Check the frame rails where the upper a-arm mounts. They can rust out but be filled full of debris and you wouldn't notice it as the view is pretty obstructed by the adjusting cams

3. Install factory Lower control arms with sway-bar mounts. Much better than aftermarket.

I don't do any autocross or track but I do drive my car hard with the RMS components when I get an opportunity and the car performs beautifully.

I'm with abodyjoe on this.

I wouldn't go back.
 
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racerjoe said:
Sounds to me like you don't intend to do any track or autocross. Why spend money where you don't need to? There's an easy recipe to make your car feel completely different. (with all new bushings of course)
Borgenson steering box
1.03" or larger t-Bars
sway bar
Bilstein or better shocks
Disc brakes
And I'll also suggest frame connectors since it is a convertible.
If you reach out to Peter Bergman, I'm sure he will tell you the same.

I don't think you need tubular UCAs, LCA stiffening plates, K-member stiffening, etc. That will be overkill and wasted money for your intended use of the car.
Click to expand...

I agree, except I would add he needs more caster than stock so at least offset UCA bushings. Maybe tubular UCA if only for the additional caster.
 
Out of all of this i would consider the frame connectors the 1 must have for that.. a convert especially.. get the US Car tool ones.. made a massive difference in my car.. the 62 twists like a twizzler though
 
Super-Cuda said:
Just my observations having been down both roads..

I would agree with most of this but pay attention to the following :

1. Check the factory K Member for signs of fatigue, the pivot points for the lower control arms and the mounting points for the steering box. If you want to visually check , get someone to sit in the car and turn the steering wheel full left to right and see if the box moves. You will see the box deflect if the k frame is weak there.

2. Check the frame rails where the upper a-arm mounts. They can rust out but be filled full of debris and you wouldn't notice it as the view is pretty obstructed by the adjusting cams

3. Install factory Lower control arms with sway-bar mounts. Much better than aftermarket.

I don't do any autocross or track but I do drive my car hard with the RMS components when I get an opportunity and the car performs beautifully.

I'm with abodyjoe on this.

I wouldn't go back.
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I'm not looking to hijack a thread, or get into a pissing match over which is better. I've run both the stock style stuff and now on an HDK setup. I like both and I think there is a place for both. However, I want to clarify, "driving hard" on the street will never duplicate a road course or autocross. Nor is a complete aftermarket system required to have a car that is fun to drive. I do encourage you to find your local autocross group and give it a go. It's the most fun you will ever have in your car. You won't be the fastest, might not be the slowest, you will make mistakes, you will laugh your *** off, and finally, you will want to go again and again.
 
racerjoe said:
I'm not looking to hijack a thread, or get into a pissing match over which is better. I've run both the stock style stuff and now on an HDK setup. I like both and I think there is a place for both. However, I want to clarify, "driving hard" on the street will never duplicate a road course or autocross. Nor is a complete aftermarket system required to have a car that is fun to drive. I do encourage you to find your local autocross group and give it a go. It's the most fun you will ever have in your car. You won't be the fastest, might not be the slowest, you will make mistakes, you will laugh your *** off, and finally, you will want to go again and again.
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Agreed.

I wish I had the opportunity to do exactly that but, unfortunately, no facilities in my area available to do it.

My main reason for posting was to share experiences with the stock equipment and some of what I think should be checked on a 57 year old car if you want to ensure a safe and reliable ride .

Hopefully that was the kind of info and experience the op was looking for.

Definitely a place for both setups.
 
Do you still have the '67 K member? The idler arm is a one year piece, so I'd also consider changing the K member for more parts avaiablity. Planning on upgrading my '68 to disk brakes soon with 73+ parts. Mine is also a convertible and really want to add frame connectors as you can really feel the chassis flexing.
 
It's interesting because I am also torn between the aesthetic appeal of going with a completely new tubular system like we have discussed, or sticking with new old style parts. I realize looks shouldn't play into this type of decision, but they do since I also want to go to meets and shows (not concours type....just your average Mopar group show, or show & shine). Since I am not auto-crossing or racing or anything, the need for something so expensive is limited to a 70/30 split between wanting an excellent driving experience, and just the overall visual appeal.

Frame connectors were also a given to be added. Easy to add and not too expensive.
 
Super-Cuda said:
Agreed.

I wish I had the opportunity to do exactly that but, unfortunately, no facilities in my area available to do it.

My main reason for posting was to share experiences with the stock equipment and some of what I think should be checked on a 57 year old car if you want to ensure a safe and reliable ride .

Hopefully that was the kind of info and experience the op was looking for.

Definitely a place for both setups.
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Appreciating ALL feedback. The driving experience involving things other than a straight line is very important, hence my desire to get the feedback I need to make the right decisions.
 
BigB6958 said:
It's interesting because I am also torn between the aesthetic appeal of going with a completely new tubular system like we have discussed, or sticking with new old style parts. I realize looks shouldn't play into this type of decision, but they do since I also want to go to meets and shows (not concours type....just your average Mopar group show, or show & shine). Since I am not auto-crossing or racing or anything, the need for something so expensive is limited to a 70/30 split between wanting an excellent driving experience, and just the overall visual appeal.

Frame connectors were also a given to be added. Easy to add and not too expensive.
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Here's the US cartools frame connectors installed on my car.

I also installed the front and rear torque boxes at the same time.

What a difference they make!!


1730220233663.png
 
Super-Cuda said:
Here's the US cartools frame connectors installed on my car.

I also installed the front and rear torque boxes at the same time.

What a difference they make!!


View attachment 1716321063
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I have the torque boxes but haven't installed them... didn't think they would make that much difference, wrong again :) .. Also.. got sick of welding on my back :) Will have to get to it
 
Super-Cuda said:
1. Check the factory K Member for signs of fatigue, the pivot points for the lower control arms and the mounting points for the steering box. If you want to visually check , get someone to sit in the car and turn the steering wheel full left to right and see if the box moves. You will see the box deflect if the k frame is weak there.
Click to expand...

Personally, if you have the option to gusset the k-frame including bracing the LCA mount I think it is a must. Both my cars now have welded and gusseted k-frames.

Super-Cuda said:
3. Install factory Lower control arms with sway-bar mounts. Much better than aftermarket.
Click to expand...

My '74 has ball joint sway bar connectors using the stock LCA sway bar mounts.

20230420_182843.jpg


Those were shortened as much as possible. My plan for the '73 is to try and use an L shaped link and modify the LCA that doesn't have a bracket. I want a link that doesn't need to be modified in case it needs to be replaced.

A link like this:

782_K80278.jpg
 
Icetech said:
I have the torque boxes but haven't installed them... didn't think they would make that much difference, wrong again :) .. Also.. got sick of welding on my back :) Will have to get to it
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I bought full Level 2 kit from US Car Tool but only put sub frame connectors in so far....
 
Icetech said:
I have the torque boxes but haven't installed them... didn't think they would make that much difference, wrong again :) .. Also.. got sick of welding on my back :) Will have to get to it
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Thankfully mine already has torque boxes installed. One needs replacing though as it is rusted through. Part of my winter will be cleaning up the underside of the car and spraying with sealant and rust inhibitor. That is gonna be a PITA on my back underneath it.
 
BigB6958 said:
Thankfully mine already has torque boxes installed. One needs replacing though as it is rusted through. Part of my winter will be cleaning up the underside of the car and spraying with sealant and rust inhibitor. That is gonna be a PITA on my back underneath it.
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yup.. i had to do every inch of mine.. took quite awhile
 
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