roller cams for la 360 /questions

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jazak5

jazak5

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how good are the factory roller lifters?
will they handle occasional 6000rpms?
same spring pressures as a hyd flat tappet?
/I believe Oregon cams can regrind my cam for some performance ?
1969 barracuda 3000lbs/ /727 auto with a 3000 stall TQ 3.23 rear 14-inch tires

just looking for a torque tire fryer:steering:
 
jazak5 said:
how good are the factory roller lifters?
will they handle occasional 6000rpms?
Click to expand...
Yes absolutely.
jazak5 said:
same spring pressures as a hyd flat tappet?
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Absolutely not.

Oregon cams has a couple different grinds that will step up the performance and not be terribly radical or require cutting the tops of the guides. The 3000 stall is a plus. Give ‘em a call.
 
my personal experience: i run them regularely to 6500 rpm, accidentally to 7000 without any trouble. of course you will need adequate springs for the application.

I used a oregon grind i a friends motor - works well and was well worth the money.

Michael
 
The stock lifters are great pieces. Having said that, were I to build anything roller, it'd be a solid.
 
JDMopar said:
Title says LA 360, so I'm curious as to how you will mount the spider in the lifter valley of an LA to hold the factory Magnum roller lifters?
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Late year LA engines are also called “Pre-Magnum” engines. In other words, late year LA engines are roller cam engines that have spiders.
 
JDMopar said:
Title says LA 360, so I'm curious as to how you will mount the spider in the lifter valley of an LA to hold the factory Magnum roller lifters?
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Locate the spider in the valley, mark the holes and drill and tap them. There are even a couple of companies that make kits to do just that to a small block Ford. Really nothing to it. The engine has to be apart of course.
 
Yeah, if you've ever seen one, there's not much to the actual spider mount.

There are raised bosses in the LA roller blocks, but I don't thing they're necessary.

Keeping the metal chips out of the rest of the engine would be the main concern but even that doesn't look too hard.

Are the lifter bores taller on roller blocks?
 
YY1 said:
Yeah, if you've ever seen one, there's not much to the actual spider mount.

There are raised bosses in the LA roller blocks, but I don't thing they're necessary.

Keeping the metal chips out of the rest of the engine would be the main concern but even that doesn't look too hard.

Are the lifter bores taller on roller blocks?
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Now that I'm unsure of, but there's no question in my mind that I couldn't make it work and work right.
 
by the way....i do have a SBM HR cam i no longer need, Lunati 20200713. If somebody needs that i´m sure we can work sth. out.

Michael
 
If you havent purchased anything there are options. The lifter bores on magnums are longer in length. If it is a true LA block and you are set on going with a roller set-up I would highly recommend Hughes "Morrel" roller lifters HUG #5321. I put them in my 408 with a Comp Cam hyd roller and the work great. They also moved the oil band on these to accommodate the shorter lifter bores in the LA blocks and allow for pushrod oiling.
 
My 68 Barracuda fb is 3650 with me in it. I am 210. I took ~200 pounds out of it one day, for a TnT, but it wasn't easy. She scaled at 3457/me in it.
How in the world did you get yours down to 3000?
 
AJ/FormS said:
My 68 Barracuda fb is 3650 with me in it. I am 210. I took ~200 pounds out of it one day, for a TnT, but it wasn't easy. She scaled at 3457/me in it.
How in the world did you get yours down to 3000?
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List the cars equipment. P/S? P/B? 727/904? Did it have the GV/OD when scaled? Heater core installed? Fiberglass anywhere? Steel wheels?
 
367/ alloy heads and intake/ TTI's and full 3"duals; A833/GVod All-alloy;
Rally Suspension/ PDB, PS, 1.03s; no rear seat
Kidney-Slot alloys; 14X7 and 15x10s BFGs
the rest is stock, scaled 3440 like this, No fiberglass,
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3 inch exhaust is a good bit heavier than 2-1/2.
The GV/OD is a big added weight.
PDB can become manual disc for a good weight savings.
P/S you s very heavy.
1.03 T bars are a little bit of weight.
The 15X10 wheels and tires can go thinner. What is missing from you hooking up (besides control of the right foot) is a decent rear spring. I’d suggest a CalTrac set up with there mono spring and bars. There shocks are better on all 4 corners.

This is the obvious. Never mind going to a street strip mode or race weight reduction. My wife’s car has much of the above listed weight reduction items and scaled super close (just under) to the registered listed weight of 2990. (Near zero gasoline in the tank.) Her car is all steel. But lacks much of what you have that I listed.

Your gear vendors is a BIG offender. But I know that is not going anywhere.
 
360duster said:
by the way....i do have a SBM HR cam i no longer need, Lunati 20200713. If somebody needs that i´m sure we can work sth. out.

Michael
Click to expand...

I don’t want to step on the original posters toes, but if he doesn’t want it I’d be interested.
 
thanks for the consideration on that cam// but ii will pass at this time
 
greymouser7 said:
On the Street? WHat if you had to idle in traffic, say waiting 45 minutes (in idle) to pick up your kid from school (nobody walks home from school anymore)?
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So what if I did?
 
greymouser7 said:
no you turkey, would it be okay? daily driving with solid rollers?
thanks
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Well sure. If it bothers you, you can use pressure fed roller lifters, but as long as you don't go crazy with spring pressure you'll be fine either way.
 
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