Roller rocker ideas for 340 build

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Don't jump just yet, heres another members resdesigned Hughes roller rockers! Aint nothin wrong with aluminum!

duster360 said:
Thought maybe someone here might want to see pictures of the Hughes rocker setup I just received. Enjoy. Click on pictures for larger images.


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Agreed! Very tough decision here as they are both good setups. Looks like Hughes is a complete package too. Now comes the other question...1.5 or 1.6 ratio? The pricing is the same, just wondering the difference. Higher lift? I may just stick with 1.5 as my cam is high enough.

mopardude318 said:
Don't jump just yet, heres another members resdesigned Hughes roller rockers! Aint nothin wrong with aluminum!
Click to expand...
 
Do you want flat tappet or roller? Do you want hyd or roller?
Personally I like roller cams. Remember that roller cams bring you into the power curve sooner and keeps you there longer than a flat tappet cam.
Also wait till you get the heads on (with your rockers) and the cam you want in the block. Then measure to get the correct Pushrod length.
MRL produced an engine at made 470hp and 410(?)TQ. Might wanna talk with him.
 
if ya can, and are up for it, go solid roller. they work just fine for street engines, and have proven their reliability.

Ask MadDart, that guy has done it all, and he BEATS on his chit.
 
I would like to go roller, but with my current situation funds will not allow it which was why I was going back to a hyd flat tappet setup. I can always upgrade to a roller later on down the line.

1970Duster said:
Do you want flat tappet or roller? Do you want hyd or roller?
Personally I like roller cams. Remember that roller cams bring you into the power curve sooner and keeps you there longer than a flat tappet cam.
Also wait till you get the heads on (with your rockers) and the cam you want in the block. Then measure to get the correct Pushrod length.
MRL produced an engine at made 470hp and 410(?)TQ. Might wanna talk with him.
Click to expand...
 
You can get a roller cam for a magnum motor and buy the extension from Hughes so you can use a mech fuel pump.
Just know that with a roller the Pushrod holes in the head need to be opened up to get the proper angle (ask me how I know that!). Because of that angle I went with the comp pro mags because they use a ball ball setup vs the ball cup.
 
I am running a holley 150hp electric pump so I have a blockoff on the motor. I may talk to the machinist this week about the cam and what prices he can hook me up with as he was trying to push the solid roller as well.

1970Duster said:
You can get a roller cam for a magnum motor and buy the extension from Hughes so you can use a mech fuel pump.
Just know that with a roller the Pushrod holes in the head need to be opened up to get the proper angle (ask me how I know that!). Because of that angle I went with the comp pro mags because they use a ball ball setup vs the ball cup.
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Go for it buddy, it's a few bucks more but the fact you don't have to go back in the motor to change cams makes it totally worth it (to me anyway). Use a harden intermediate shaft with that roller and see if you can get the cam with a cast iron gear on it (4+ hours of my gone after I found out that gear).
 
I will let you all know.

1970Duster said:
Go for it buddy, it's a few bucks more but the fact you don't have to go back in the motor to change cams makes it totally worth it (to me anyway). Use a harden intermediate shaft with that roller and see if you can get the cam with a cast iron gear on it (4+ hours of my gone after I found out that gear).
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smartken22 said:
I would like to go roller, but with my current situation funds will not allow it which was why I was going back to a hyd flat tappet setup. I can always upgrade to a roller later on down the line.
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If you're already buying pushrods, the hydraulic roller cam setup is about $715. Most flat cams are $170ish. So, yes, its $545 more, but seriously, it works awesome...my cam in my 340, mentioned above that made 470hp is only 227/231 with .530" lift. Save for a little longer and get it.

My engine also has the Crane Golds as well...look like a nice piece since they were used when I bought them and other than a couple that had some pitting from sitting around and were replaced, they looked fantastic.
 
Right now it is looking like I will be doing a complete roller setup now. I will more than likely just save for the whole setup and do it right the first time. I have a few questions though about this though. 1) 1970Duster I know you always preach to run a roller cam with the cast iron gear. Right now I am planning on running the Comp XR286HR-10 (286 intake, 294 duration and 236/242 @.050 with .544 lift), which has the steel gear. I do plan to switch the dizzy gear to the Comp 420 bronze gear. Will that work too? 2) My 340 block has various depth chamfers in the lifter bores. Will this effect oiling for the roller lifters? This seems to be the hot debate regarding roller cams not getting sufficient oil to the rockers due to losing pressure at the chamfers.
 
I opted for the Comp Cams XE275HL and Hughes rockers...the Edelbrock heads blew the budget for me.

I just fired the engine up yesterday for break-in...and it sounded good.

There are so many great options for cams out there...it's tough to make a decision.

Paul
 

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smartken22 said:
Right now it is looking like I will be doing a complete roller setup now. I will more than likely just save for the whole setup and do it right the first time. I have a few questions though about this though. 1) 1970Duster I know you always preach to run a roller cam with the cast iron gear. Right now I am planning on running the Comp XR286HR-10 (286 intake, 294 duration and 236/242 @.050 with .544 lift), which has the steel gear. I do plan to switch the dizzy gear to the Comp 420 bronze gear. Will that work too? 2) My 340 block has various depth chamfers in the lifter bores. Will this effect oiling for the roller lifters? This seems to be the hot debate regarding roller cams not getting sufficient oil to the rockers due to losing pressure at the chamfers.
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Yeah the bronze gear on the intermediate shaft will work. Just use a harden shaft. With a solid you'll have to have the lifter bores bushed.
 
hughes 5323 solid roller lifters......* The lifter bores do not need to be bushed to run these lifters.

comp 828 solid rollers..... These are solid wall type and do not require "tubing" of the oil galley or sleeving of the lifter bores.

there are two sets that do not require bores bushed..
 
Got it thanks. How can I tell if my intermediate shaft is hardened or not? Are there differences other than the heat treating process?

1970Duster said:
Yeah the bronze gear on the intermediate shaft will work. Just use a harden shaft. With a solid you'll have to have the lifter bores bushed.
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The cam I am running is a hydraulic roller. Can I use solid roller lifter or is that the difference in cams is the lifters that make them solid/hydraulic?

70aarcuda said:
hughes 5323 solid roller lifters......* The lifter bores do not need to be bushed to run these lifters.

comp 828 solid rollers..... These are solid wall type and do not require "tubing" of the oil galley or sleeving of the lifter bores.

there are two sets that do not require bores bushed..
Click to expand...
 
That motor looks awesome! Nice job! I was gonna do heads, but I am already running ported J wedge heads with the 2.02 valves.

1972DusterPaul said:
I opted for the Comp Cams XE275HL and Hughes rockers...the Edelbrock heads blew the budget for me.

I just fired the engine up yesterday for break-in...and it sounded good.

There are so many great options for cams out there...it's tough to make a decision.

Paul
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Here's my two cents since i have machine shop and built a lot of different engines both small block & big block street and performance. On the street I tell most of my clients to stick with a flat tappet cam because most engines can make great torque & HP without the added expense of the roller cam & lifters, custom push rods. You do need to run an oil additive with zinc in it and a friction modifier with the flat tappet cams. Also on any no-stock engine I run an aftermarket full roller rocker arm most of the factory stamped rocker arm are no were near a 1.5 ratio some are as low as 1.3 so you are leaving a lot of power on the table using stock rockers. I think David Hughes wrote a piece on this a few years ago. I'm sure it still up on the Hughes Engines website. I have been using Hughes products for several years now and by far I think they have the best cams on the market for Mopar engines. if your not sure about what to do call them they are great to deal with. Well thats a long two cents I hope it helps
 
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