ramcharger
Dismember
X2!
rumblefish's Duster project
- Thread starter rumblefish360
- Start date
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X2!
mguner
How many is too many?
Keep it coming Rumble! Like the 4 speed dart I'm messing with only you have a bit more rust.... the joys of Texas cars....:cheers:
Thanks, I hope the rain holds off. Almost got to weld in the rear pan yesterday when I stop for a sandwhich, I go back out side and everything is soaking wet!!!!!
YIKES! Out of no where it came down hard.
YIKES! Out of no where it came down hard.
Is Lebanon Valley the closest to you?
Technically, E-town. But going straight across N.J. instead of south would be only 11 miles to the next nearest track.
My biggest problem is getting off the Island.
Do you have the Leb. zip code handy? I can map quest it.
My biggest problem is getting off the Island.
Do you have the Leb. zip code handy? I can map quest it.
blackace
The KING of flats
Hey Rob I noticed you didn't weld the floor pan to the frame rail on the driver's side? Or maybe I couldn't see to good in the pic? LOL!!! Did you weld it?
Havn't got there yet. I also need to get under the car to weld the front of the floor pans to the firewall like the factory did. Which they only tacked welded them togther about 2-1/2 to 3 inchs apart.
I'll need to scrape off some undercoating to get a clean area. The air craft paint remover in a can will make that easy to do.
I figured I would just get the big parts out of the way before I jack up the car and remove the tires. Which, at the same time (After welding and such...) I should start the disc conversion.
Fear of broken lines runs down my back. I really just wanna drive it alittle. I need to do some head work on the daily driver and this would make for a replacement in the mean time.
I'll need to scrape off some undercoating to get a clean area. The air craft paint remover in a can will make that easy to do.
I figured I would just get the big parts out of the way before I jack up the car and remove the tires. Which, at the same time (After welding and such...) I should start the disc conversion.
Fear of broken lines runs down my back. I really just wanna drive it alittle. I need to do some head work on the daily driver and this would make for a replacement in the mean time.
zip 12195
Invalid ZIP/Postal Code Is what I got. Hang tight, I'll do some quick homework on this. BRB
OK, I map quested it and got; Lebanon Valley;
Estimated Time: 3.0 hours 31 minutes Estimated Distance: 183.50 miles
Atco NJ;
Total Estimated Time: 3.0 hours 6 minutesTotal Estimated Distance: 152.73 miles
Maple Grove, Maple Grove Raceway 30 Stauffer Park Lane, Mohnton, PA 19540;
Estimated Time: 3.0 hours 51 minutes Estimated Distance: 200.84 miles
Island dragway, Great Meadows NJ;
Estimated Time: 2.0 hours 23 minutes Estimated Distance: 115.31 miles
E-town;
Total Estimated Time: 2.0 hours 12 minutesTotal Estimated Distance: 102.53 miles
Guess where I'm going........
Though a A body get togther is a worthy cause to meet.
OK, I map quested it and got; Lebanon Valley;
Estimated Time: 3.0 hours 31 minutes Estimated Distance: 183.50 miles
Atco NJ;
Total Estimated Time: 3.0 hours 6 minutesTotal Estimated Distance: 152.73 miles
Maple Grove, Maple Grove Raceway 30 Stauffer Park Lane, Mohnton, PA 19540;
Estimated Time: 3.0 hours 51 minutes Estimated Distance: 200.84 miles
Island dragway, Great Meadows NJ;
Estimated Time: 2.0 hours 23 minutes Estimated Distance: 115.31 miles
E-town;
Total Estimated Time: 2.0 hours 12 minutesTotal Estimated Distance: 102.53 miles
Guess where I'm going........
Though a A body get togther is a worthy cause to meet.
OH, part 2 to your answer. Totally forgot to add in...
The pan can be welded down to the under car frame, but not all of the pan rested on it. There is a gap at some points and it is rather large.
Being that the factory only tack welded a row of spots along the edges, and a couple of inchs apart sometimes, I figured my connecting tacks and beeds should prove very much stronger than what was there to begin with.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Wow.....really coming along good! I'll have to have a conversation with you about wire feed welders some time. I'm interested but have no idea what to look for.
You seem to be doing a great job with yours! Keep up the good work!
You seem to be doing a great job with yours! Keep up the good work!
Hey Capt. My wife got a Sears welder for me for my birthday. I don't know much about them, just general workings. The instruction booklet explains alot about the machine and it's abilitys.
I last left off with the front floor pans and it has been awhile since I have posted. I got a little busy from time to time, but also got lazy on posting an update on this.
I didn't have enuff floor pan on the drivers side rear pan to cover all the rotted area. I made a trip to a metal tube shop for box tube and seen some basic sheet metal hanging around as well. I told the boss man what I was doing and handed me some metal the same thickness as the floor.
Below you can see the missing metal area. A small rectangle. I cut a rectangle a little short and welded it into place. While hot, I hammered it into shape. Then cut a second rectangle and did it again. Tack tack tack tack. Everytime after the tack, a little tap with the hammer to mold it into shape. Not to bad for my first time.
Paint it up and lay down some seam sealer. DONE!
I last left off with the front floor pans and it has been awhile since I have posted. I got a little busy from time to time, but also got lazy on posting an update on this.
I didn't have enuff floor pan on the drivers side rear pan to cover all the rotted area. I made a trip to a metal tube shop for box tube and seen some basic sheet metal hanging around as well. I told the boss man what I was doing and handed me some metal the same thickness as the floor.
Below you can see the missing metal area. A small rectangle. I cut a rectangle a little short and welded it into place. While hot, I hammered it into shape. Then cut a second rectangle and did it again. Tack tack tack tack. Everytime after the tack, a little tap with the hammer to mold it into shape. Not to bad for my first time.
Paint it up and lay down some seam sealer. DONE!
Here you can see the passenger rear floor pan installed and basicly finished along with seat set up. The seats are from a 2002 (?) Dodge Intrepid, or was that a Chrysler Concord, I keep forgetting since I had both for a short time.
But the seats are more comfy than the previously show units and in better workling order. Drivers a 6 way power while the passenger isn't, it will lay down flat, very flat.
You can see the mounting of the seat is very different than what came with the car. This is what I got the box tube for. Time to get creative? Hopfullly not to much.
But the seats are more comfy than the previously show units and in better workling order. Drivers a 6 way power while the passenger isn't, it will lay down flat, very flat.
You can see the mounting of the seat is very different than what came with the car. This is what I got the box tube for. Time to get creative? Hopfullly not to much.
Here is a shot of the seats being test fitted in the car. The color is close enuff to work. Heck, there free. Power 6 way drivers and laydown passenger seats. Why not?
The second shot is showing white out to approx. mark where they seem to sit and work best.
3rd and 4th shot show the box tube cut up to help level the rear and mount the front since the way the seats were mounted in the Chrysler are very different than what came in the Duster OE. A quick drilling of the box tube to mount to the seat and then downward into the floor pan.
The seats are a little narrow in the tracks to meet the OE holes, but not to far off.
The last shot is a close up of the box tube cut with access for a wrench on the mounting bolt.
The second shot is showing white out to approx. mark where they seem to sit and work best.
3rd and 4th shot show the box tube cut up to help level the rear and mount the front since the way the seats were mounted in the Chrysler are very different than what came in the Duster OE. A quick drilling of the box tube to mount to the seat and then downward into the floor pan.
The seats are a little narrow in the tracks to meet the OE holes, but not to far off.
The last shot is a close up of the box tube cut with access for a wrench on the mounting bolt.
Almost done, the seat are bolted in after the front section of carpet is fitted in. Cutting a hole in the carpet is best done with an X cut and pealed back. It gets hidden well.
(2) A little trim on the edge and I think it'll be just fine. (Hi Tweaty!)
(3) You can see the carpet only goes so far back. If you want to deleate the rear seat, you'll need to order up or shop for carpet to cover the rest.
(2) A little trim on the edge and I think it'll be just fine. (Hi Tweaty!)
(3) You can see the carpet only goes so far back. If you want to deleate the rear seat, you'll need to order up or shop for carpet to cover the rest.
I almost forgot, the pans in the wheel well area. I had to scrape of a little surface rust, no big deal, 3 min.'s and I was welding little spots. Removing that upper bolt/screw for the inner fanders mud cover was hard. (I broke the meatl tab)
A couple of spots welded, clean'em up and some seam sealer over, under and behind the joint. IF the engine is in the car, you'll find it hard to get to the otherside of the frame rail for anything and probably impossible to get all the floor pan. OH, speaking of which, last shot is remembering you didn't get under the car with the seam sealer.
OH, I did manage to paint some POR-15 on that I had hanging around, forgot to take a snap shot of it. Dang it!
A couple of spots welded, clean'em up and some seam sealer over, under and behind the joint. IF the engine is in the car, you'll find it hard to get to the otherside of the frame rail for anything and probably impossible to get all the floor pan. OH, speaking of which, last shot is remembering you didn't get under the car with the seam sealer.
OH, I did manage to paint some POR-15 on that I had hanging around, forgot to take a snap shot of it. Dang it!
Now I need to get some shots of those pesku holes in the rear wheel well. It'll be the same deal like on the floor board / drivers side I had to fab up.
Then I'll have to figure out how the heck to install this wiper arm bar that connects them both togther under the dash board. I noticed it has a slight bend to it and I'm not sure where the bend goes or what side goes to the windoe on the bar. (Pictured below.)
Sounds like a new thread in repair.......
Then I'll have to figure out how the heck to install this wiper arm bar that connects them both togther under the dash board. I noticed it has a slight bend to it and I'm not sure where the bend goes or what side goes to the windoe on the bar. (Pictured below.)
Sounds like a new thread in repair.......
TBell
Member
Great information. I am printing out the thread as a reference. Thanks again for the info. Todd
Welcome aboard TBell and I'm glad you like it. Theres better work being done here and alot of threads to run through.
This thread will also split into a performance thread later. Enjoy.
This thread will also split into a performance thread later. Enjoy.
Well, I'm back and I did a little something. I added some sound deadener to the rear seat divider. Nothing much. It was easy actually.
I also did the nasty rear package tray with a new one with replacement sound deadener with the same stuff. Notice the stock sound deadener. It's like tar paper for those who have not been there. Heavy and nasty to grab when hot.
I also did the nasty rear package tray with a new one with replacement sound deadener with the same stuff. Notice the stock sound deadener. It's like tar paper for those who have not been there. Heavy and nasty to grab when hot.
First I did the eay one. I layed down the seat divider and matched it up with the cloth. A dead on match. Beaware there is a left and right side to this. The difference is at the bottom where the seat belts go. A little 3M spray on glue and wait a few seconds. Be careful here, this stuff is sticky. Real stick and strong. Good enuff for a prank. Like glue somes butt to the seat and be there for a long while. Strong stuff. That went in after the package tray.
The package trays sound deadener was easy. Just through it up there and run it all the way to the glass and into the little valley back there. Evenit up with the edge towards the rear seat top.
With a brand new razor knife, cut out the holes for the speakers. Go slow. Even a new blade doesn't go through this pad like butter. If your speakers are in there like mine are, be real careful. Make a wide cut.
For my rear defrost, I took a drill bit of the same size as the studs that hold that trim part in and went in from the trunk and drilled up. The big main hole I just did a general line cut and then went inside the car and made it larger.
I then installed the trim peice, bolted it down and again took the razor knife and made it larger. All the scarpes fell inside the trunk onto the towel.
Pesto. looking good.
You'll have to remove the side sail panels which have a number of screws in them and do not come out easy as pie. You'll have to wiggle and twist them a bit. Becareful you don't snap or crack them. Getting them around the dusters rear window latch was a trick.
The package trays sound deadener was easy. Just through it up there and run it all the way to the glass and into the little valley back there. Evenit up with the edge towards the rear seat top.
With a brand new razor knife, cut out the holes for the speakers. Go slow. Even a new blade doesn't go through this pad like butter. If your speakers are in there like mine are, be real careful. Make a wide cut.
For my rear defrost, I took a drill bit of the same size as the studs that hold that trim part in and went in from the trunk and drilled up. The big main hole I just did a general line cut and then went inside the car and made it larger.
I then installed the trim peice, bolted it down and again took the razor knife and made it larger. All the scarpes fell inside the trunk onto the towel.
Pesto. looking good.
You'll have to remove the side sail panels which have a number of screws in them and do not come out easy as pie. You'll have to wiggle and twist them a bit. Becareful you don't snap or crack them. Getting them around the dusters rear window latch was a trick.
Now I need a headliner to replace the cardboard unit that is falling down.
Any hints? I heard theres a plastic one being made out there somewhere.
Well, I also had a minor interior light issue with the drivers door. Can't see nothin at night. I discovered that not only the switch was bad, but the ground wire didn't ground. Not seeing one for MY year Duster in the Year One catolog, I order the earlier one and found out there smaller all around than the newer years.
I spun around the ball cap to ralley thinking position and came up with this idea. Since the new switch will fall in, I need to get something to hold it while in place.
I seem to keep things. Don't we all, from other kits. These brass fittings were for a gauge. I can't remember, but I think it was a temp gauge.
I found one that would fit the new switch, but had to run a tap all the way through. I cut off the hex head and used a washer sandwhiched inbetween the brass fitting and the 7/16 bolt head of the switch. A little lock tight and I was good.
The outside would not fit into the old hole. Toooo biiiiig. So a got a 1/2 X 20 tap and die. Tapped the car and died the fitting and she spun right in. Excellent fit and fix. Don't look stock, but I have lights when the door opens!
Weird thing though, it's self grounding. No ground wire used.
These few things were not added into the cost reguarding the swap/performance aspect, which is what it's all about.
Any hints? I heard theres a plastic one being made out there somewhere.
Well, I also had a minor interior light issue with the drivers door. Can't see nothin at night. I discovered that not only the switch was bad, but the ground wire didn't ground. Not seeing one for MY year Duster in the Year One catolog, I order the earlier one and found out there smaller all around than the newer years.
I spun around the ball cap to ralley thinking position and came up with this idea. Since the new switch will fall in, I need to get something to hold it while in place.
I seem to keep things. Don't we all, from other kits. These brass fittings were for a gauge. I can't remember, but I think it was a temp gauge.
I found one that would fit the new switch, but had to run a tap all the way through. I cut off the hex head and used a washer sandwhiched inbetween the brass fitting and the 7/16 bolt head of the switch. A little lock tight and I was good.
The outside would not fit into the old hole. Toooo biiiiig. So a got a 1/2 X 20 tap and die. Tapped the car and died the fitting and she spun right in. Excellent fit and fix. Don't look stock, but I have lights when the door opens!
Weird thing though, it's self grounding. No ground wire used.
These few things were not added into the cost reguarding the swap/performance aspect, which is what it's all about.
8 X 2-1.3 inchs of Italian yummy-ness! Chicken parm ziti dinner with a bunch of garlic bread!!!!!
Oh man that was good!!!!!!!
Oh man that was good!!!!!!!
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