RAMM
Well-Known Member
Aluminium?
Aluminum what? The mains are Federal Mogul MA series bored aluminum bearings which normally I really like. Is that what your question is? J.Rob
Oh yeah forgot--**** this virus!
Aluminium?
Hey Garrett, you do realize that pistons for this are a custom order since MP no longer carries parts for there discontinued line. 3.65 - 3.58 = a lot of stroke difference for a stock or even a replacement/performance piston. I guess you could have something made up if a regular slug did t fit. (Honestly, I would love to try just for fun. I love to tinker) While I think it is an excellent route to go, one I’m sure RAMM is up to performing, it would be the rest of the external parts package I would question and call questionable in it’s effectiveness with a 40 cubic inch increase. Below is a quote from the opening post;
This leaves just one question which I’m not 100% on, is the owner of this engine/car build making use of headers? Because at that point, I’d look into porting the heads really well. If I had to use the exhaust manifolds, that would change a thing or two.
Sr71mopar made a comment, “Kind I’d like a FAST build.”
If I decided to do a FAST engine, it would be for competition and nothing else, (believe me, I think about doing this for fun but on a lower non competition level) but because of the power limitations of a stock head and exhaust manifolds. This becomes less appealing. At least for something I’d like to drive and enjoy rather than street/track race.
Yea, I just think that the car/engine owner is t ready to throw bags of money at this project but just allow Jesse to have a good time building up a power engine without getting wacky on it. The engine would still have to fit the budget and the cars driving parameters.And yet...... the fastest Mopar Wedges in FAST are all big cube combos.
The motor in the Duster in the pic...... the quickest of any SB FAST build(well into the 10’s)...... peaks well above 5k, and is only down 9hp 800rpm past peak.
I’m afraid anything I might offer won’t be of any help with Jesse’s plans, since my plan of attack would be the exact opposite of his.
I would absolutely positively be trying to steer the job towards using a 4” crank.
Yes. Should have more specific. I'm working on that.Aluminum what? The mains are Federal Mogul MA series bored aluminum bearings which normally I really like. Is that what your question is? J.Rob
Oh yeah forgot--**** this virus!
While I think that 3.65" stroke crank is very appealing it's just not going to happen. The customer is not really interested in all out power nor is he interested in a $10k+ bill as we discussed. A FAST type build is not in the cards and I wouldn't recommend a large cubic inch stroker with X castings for a '69 Dart on a good day.
When exhaust limited as in this case--smaller cubes are your friend. A larger cube engine moves more air and fuel which means the already restrictive exhaust becomes MORE restrictive which drives the power curve DOWN. A 416 or actually a 418 in this case with X heads and stock exhaust manifolds without MAX effort everything will peak at a mind blowing (<sarcasm) 5000rpm--maybe lower.
I will try my best to work within the customers criteria. The criteria is always time, budget, reliabilty, output. In this case I have a surplus of leeway in time and output. What this means is the customer has given me an abundance of time and isn't all that concerned with output. It is paramount that the engine is reliable/driveable and within the budget. (on no greater than 91 octane)
Where I'm caught is I can't NOT try to make as much power as possible within the above parameters.
Most of the allure of a 340 powered '69 4 spd Dart is the high RPM a 340 willingly achieved. A 5000 MAX rpm 400+ cube 340 does not measure up here in IMHO.
So having said all that the engine will be tested with headers on the dyno so we will never really know the results with manifolds as installed in the car. However, the engine will be built to produce well over 300HP @ 5800 rpm or higher and meet all other criteria. It's a pretty tall order when you consider:
Can't throw compression at it
Can't throw an aftermarket intake on it
Can't throw a big cam at it
Can't throw good heads on it
Can't throw headers on it (in the car)
Can't throw a Holley on it (always better than a Carter)
Can't throw a stroker crank in it
What I CAN do is:
Perform the most accurate and relevant machine work within my abilities
Utilize modern internal engine components when feasible
Nail the valve timing events
Execute the right cylinder head work
I could and am already leaning on FABO for more ideas. Thanks, J.Rob
Oil & oil control?
Your take on gapless rings? Seems like sound logic, but I wonder about longevity, which for the owner would be an issue.
And yet...... the fastest Mopar Wedges in FAST are all big cube combos.
The motor in the Duster in the pic...... the quickest of any SB FAST build(well into the 10’s)...... peaks well above 5k, and is only down 9hp 800rpm past peak.
I’m afraid anything I might offer won’t be of any help with Jesse’s plans, since my plan of attack would be the exact opposite of his.
I would absolutely positively be trying to steer the job towards using a 4” crank.
@RAMM I was not suggesting you go that route, it just popped up in the convo.
Feel better!
Yea, I just think that the car/engine owner is t ready to throw bags of money at this project but just allow Jesse to have a good time building up a power engine without getting wacky on it. The engine would still have to fit the budget and the cars driving parameters.
I think I missed the cars weight, gear ratio and tire size.
Bags of money?
It’s getting pistons anyway, and needs the crank reground at a minimum....... so it looks like the bags of money would be the difference in cost between fixing the stock crank and buying a new one, and a set of rods.
Jesse has mentioned numerous times in other posts that he’s not a fan of the 4” crank with std type heads.
Which is fine...... it’s his build to sort out.
But the reason for not stroking it isn’t really the cost.
If he were an advocate for the 4” stroke, I have no doubt he could have convinced the customer that an extra 70 cubes for a few hundred bucks was worthwhile.
Just port the heads and pick the cam that will assist in hurdling the exhaust manifold choke.
Intake matching and opening up the flange/plenum.
After reading many replies...it feels like some people are confusing your 2 threads, like this for the engine contest one.
You can be very streetable with a .500's lift cam or right around. Closing can be earlier with a roller and not sacrifice valve lift or trade off for more duration.
But not absolutely necessary just easier.
When comparing to some builds I've done and seen, you'll have no problem building 360-370hp in those parameters.
"closing the cam earlier with a roller"
maybe maybe not
here are pairs @.006 one is a Mopar FT with .006 above lash and the other is a HR
.006 .050 .200 w/1.6
280 234 155 576
280 238 *** 580
296 250 *** 580
296 250 170 584
300 242 161 .600
300 254 *** 628
304 245 163 .592 HR
304 253 173 .576 HR
306 253 172 .630 HR
*** no data
not for this thread but a .842 lobe FT can't be competitive with a 1.6 rocker
they would have to use the HR or higher ratio rockers
with mopar we have a choice
also not shown is that for higher lift the HR works better (on paper if they work at all)
The manifold choke at the outlet, that is tough.
I don't think 325 or so is hard with manifolds.
I built a 69 340 .040 very mildly ported x heads 245/[email protected] , stock iron 4 brl and exh manifolds and it did well with an isky .485 [email protected] 108 in 4*adv iirr.. or some ****. 'He wanted to stay with his old cam' but it still went into mid 6500 rpm horse powered well for manifolds.
what are the old rod bearings and why so smoked? I like full grooved mains. extrude hone manifolds if they are a big restriction, maybe sneak 1968-70 units into the mix. why is a 750 holley better than a 750 Carter? if dialed in an engine does not Know the diff
350 has no tach but runs great- has a TQ from a 360 altitude compensator etc Love those carbs--the Alt compensator can be used for performance if you know how
I also built a 383 Superbird stock looking with 440 crank and rods Crower 218 @.050 cam with .525 lift ported stock open chamber heads with 2.14 intake
Posted by another member today, you could build it with 9.2:1 and still make good power. There may even be a budget .060 over 360 piston that would make it doable.
[FOR SALE] - Mopar Performance 3.65” Stroke Small Block Crankshaft- New
You're right, the owner isn't willing to throw bags of money at this project--Just want to keep it simple and preserve the originality of the car. Car is a '69 4spd Dart with 3.23 gears. J.Rob
That cam advertises 300 duration and he was a hair light on gear at 3.55 but you can stretch rpms with an auto in 2nd. lol6500rpm is way higher than I have seen with manifolds but.... different builds. How high would you expect that build at 418 cubes to peak? Asking for a friend. J.Rob