SBE 318 basic rebuild +CAM , INTAKE, HEADS, expectations?

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Sebambam said:
when i researched the cam that was in it i found this:
COMP Cams 20-212-2 COMP Cams High Energy Camshafts | Summit Racing
and there is a XE version of it
DODGE COMP Cams 20-223-3 COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts | Summit Racing
however i couldnt see a XE stamping


* i just dont go down the rabbit hole of having this heads "rebuild" with valve job, springs , guides etc at that point i spend 650$
Click to expand...
the 454/454 268 cam is more reasonable of the two, but i think that there's better options in that lift and duration that are split pattern. the 20-233-3 is wayy big for the cubes and compression.

and no matter what you choose, you're more than likely going to need springs to match the lift. so be ready for that.
 
I didn't realize the op had a 440, I think I'd just stick that 318 in the corner and go with the 440.
A stock 440 will make more power than any 318 he's gonna build. No need for high stall convertors or steep rear gears.
 
I do get bored talking about small blocks anyway. lol
 
1723949535048.png
 
fishmens67 said:
I didn't realize the op had a 440, I think I'd just stick that 318 in the corner and go with the 440.
A stock 440 will make more power than any 318 he's gonna build. No need for high stall convertors or steep rear gears.
Click to expand...
that's the whole crux of the situation. he'll need 2K plus to shoehorn in the 440 vs [insert amount under 2K] to rattle bomb rebuild the 318 and be rolling around.

then gather up the bits n' bobs to make the chonk block happen at [insert later date and time].
 
Icetech said:
Then as a 318 owner myself.. i will say... go on market place and find a 360.... you will have much more torque and power for much less money.. on a good day you can find one for $300ish.. put in a cam and intake and you will probably be in the same range as the 318 with heads/cam/intake... would be a better bang for the buck.
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I'm currently building a mild 318 to replace a Slant 6 in my 1974 Plymouth Valiant, 4-door, which I got really cheap. After I picked up the 318, a friend mentioned the 360 as a better alternative, dollar VS output. As I have a 7 1/4 rear end, I don't want to blow up the rearend. BUT, the costs are nickel and diming me, where I'm at $1000 and still need a flywheel, possible clutch and exhaust. I could have picked up a running 360 from a guy I know, for $100!
 
Well ( to me) good news

The engine was rebuilt before.
I will do all bearings, expansion plugs, rings anyways.
And a hone to clean the holes...

Just to confirm
It seems like rods are .20 over
20240818_120255.jpg



Crank as well ...
I'm a bit confused since only the center main cap indicates the .20

The other caps don't have a stamping.

20240818_120242.jpg


20240818_120150.jpg


20240818_120218.jpg
 
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cool, i did rings/bearings on a 400 (and cut the heads .100) years ago and beat the piss out of it for years.. works fine :)
 
Icetech said:
cool, i did rings/bearings on a 400 (and cut the heads .100) years ago and beat the piss out of it for years.. works fine :)
Click to expand...
wow .100 that would bring the compression up lol...
however i would have to mill the intake as well... and with mill i mean use a grinder lol

as you guys said.. i check the 360 heads condition ... see what spings are in it ( since the motor had a Comp cam ) and then if consider a MILL JOB probably arround.30 max for the intake fitment ...

IF the Guides are loose as they where on my 440 452 casting heads ( i didnt see that) i will not invest in the 360 heads. it will come out to 600-700$

my 452 heads with springs, valve job,milling new guides etc and done right are 650$
for 1200 i could have had SM heads which are regardless far superior.
Mopar Chrysler BB 383 440 265cc 74cc Hydraulic Flat Assembled Cylinder Heads

for the SB the SM heads are 1100


PS: i just ordered on ROCKAUTO....
Rings
mains & rod Bearings
Headgaskets ( Felpro 1008 = 38 $ ea )
new Motor mounts
Oil pan gasket
Lifters
expansion plug kit
Timing cover gaskets
double roller timing gear/chain kit
= 280$ + ship
 
Sebambam said:
wow .100 that would bring the compression up lol...
however i would have to mill the intake as well... and with mill i mean use a grinder lol

as you guys said.. i check the 360 heads condition ... see what spings are in it ( since the motor had a Comp cam ) and then if consider a MILL JOB probably arround.30 max for the intake fitment ...

IF the Guides are loose as they where on my 440 452 casting heads ( i didnt see that) i will not invest in the 360 heads. it will come out to 600-700$

my 452 heads with springs, valve job,milling new guides etc and done right are 650$
for 1200 i could have had SM heads which are regardless far superior.
Mopar Chrysler BB 383 440 265cc 74cc Hydraulic Flat Assembled Cylinder Heads

for the SB the SM heads are 1100
Click to expand...
If you mill the head surface, have the intake surface milled as well so it lines up. You will be able to use any intake then.
 
What was @RustyRatRod saying? .030 and you don't need to machine the intake surface? Here's the formula: I didn't machine anything off the China walls. I just didn't use those thick cork gaskets. No gasket and a nice bead of black silicone and no leaks. Even after 10 years.

~ Milling Formula ~

Mopar 340 & 360 Cylinder Heads

* To reduce Cylinder Head Combustion Chamber {By 1.0 CC} ............... Mill > .0048"

* For every .010" Removed from the Cylinder Head or Engine Block Deck.

* Amount to be removed from Intake Side {Manifold of Cylinder Head}.. Mill > .0095"

* The Cylinder Block Intake Rails {or Intake Manifold 'end-rails'} may also
require milling, to ensure a proper fit.
* For every .010" removed from the Cylinder Head or Engine Block Deck.
* Amount to be removed from the 'end-rails' ...................................... Mill > .0144"
 
toolmanmike said:
What was @RustyRatRod saying? .030 and you don't need to machine the intake surface? Here's the formula:

~ Milling Formula ~

Mopar 340 & 360 Cylinder Heads

* To reduce Cylinder Head Combustion Chamber {By 1.0 CC} ............... Mill > .0048"

* For every .010" Removed from the Cylinder Head or Engine Block Deck.

* Amount to be removed from Intake Side {Manifold of Cylinder Head}.. Mill > .0095"

* The Cylinder Block Intake Rails {or Intake Manifold 'end-rails'} may also
require milling, to ensure a proper fit.
* For every .010" removed from the Cylinder Head or Engine Block Deck.
* Amount to be removed from the 'end-rails' ...................................... Mill > .0144"
Click to expand...
You certainly can machine the intake at .030 if you want to. But I've done it so many times without it and never had an issue. Now .060 is a different story. I had to mill my Ford 400 intake to match up with the .060" milled heads. It didn't lack much lining up un milled, though.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You certainly can machine the intake at .030 if you want to. But I've done it so many times without it and never had an issue. Now .060 is a different story. I had to mill my Ford 400 intake to match up with the .060" milled heads. It didn't lack much lining up un milled, though.
Click to expand...
i'd use RTV on the China wall anyways... those gaskets , if rubber or cork always leak, split or end up partially inside of the intake or hang off on the outside like a death sock .

.30 milling sounds reasonable.. ill see what my guys says... we work togther for many years and if i tell him the BUDGET purpose he ll know with what i can get away :)
 
The absolute best thing to do on the intake if you mill the heads is set it on and see how everything lines up. Set it on with the gaskets in place and shine a light into the plenum and see how the ports line up and make sure the bolt holes line up.
 
Sebambam said:
'd use RTV on the China wall anyways... those gaskets , if rubber or cork always leak, split or end up partially inside of the intake or hang off on the outside like a death sock .
Click to expand...
Death sock? Nevermind. I don't wanna know.
 
this is the casting # i have on the heads
3418915 – 1970-1972, 360 LA-series small-block, 1.88/1.60 valves, 65cc-73cc .. greeeeat. ( 8 cc ) difference within 1x casting # ahahah
 
Sebambam said:
this is the casting # i have on the heads
3418915 – 1970-1972, 360 LA-series small-block, 1.88/1.60 valves, 65cc-73cc .. greeeeat. ( 8 cc ) difference within 1x casting # ahahah
Click to expand...
Those are decent heads.
 
Are you saying one is a X head? Can you get some pictures of the heads?
 
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