Seeking Exhaust Advice

[64DartV8]

If you can possibly afford it, a coating (like jet hot) is a great idea, not even so much for looks as to keep engine compartment Temps down, and ad to the life of the headers.
My fenderwell custom headers, my custom under chassis headers (both V8s swapped into tiny foreign cars, so custom) and my old hooker adjustable have all been coated. The only way to go in my opinion.
I'd probably install em, make sure any dents, dings or holes in the car needed are done, the exhaust is plumbed, and then pull the headers out and send em out for coating.

OK, that could work. The headers are in pieces and the instructions say to use silicone when putting them together. I wonder if coating them would effect the way they fit together. Also, any recommendation as to where to send them?

 

[64DartV8]

My only problem with the fenderwells , was turning the exhaust under at the collectors. It took a lotta room. But the car pictured is sitting pretty high so it should be ok.
After that, was fitting tires in there to not rub on the headers.

IIRC Hooker makes 5204s that are a hybrid under chassis header, with some tubes going down past the steering box, and others out thru the apron, and then they join up again. I suppose that you have considered those?
I think Doug's makes a similar header.

I have poked around, but I'm bias towards the fender ones because I have them, and because I like the way they look. As to the wheels, I'd hope that any contact could somehow be minimized, but I can't see how I could tell without getting everything in there.

 

[64DartV8]

Remember that the fenderwells are structural in these cars. Don't make sharp corners, and ideally you will want to add some sort of reinforcement to support the front frame rails.

Yes, someone else mentioned that too. I plan to make the holes as small as necessary and then try to reinforce the front in any inconspicuous way I can. Thank you.

 

[64DartV8]

If not too late, I like my Sanderson DD9 short headers for the early A-body cars.

Provides room for maintenance, can install the oil filter directly to the block and plenty of clearance for your starter.

I previously had the TTI stepped headers and while a very nice product, they provide no room for the items mentioned above. Doug’s might be better.

For a street car I did not feel or hear a difference from the switch. Probably would on a dyno or drag strip.

Picture shows the spaghetti mess of the tti’s

View attachment 1716351695

I have to say, that those are the most tempting alternative I've seen. Right now the first step is to get the old manifolds off without breaking anything, but I'm certainly going to keep an open mind about the ones you said, they look amazing.

 

[64DartV8]

how about some pics of the sandersons?

their discription is a bit confusing...

Agreed, I'd love to see a picture of them in the car.

 

[33IMP]

OK, that could work. The headers are in pieces and the instructions say to use silicone when putting them together. I wonder if coating them would effect the way they fit together. Also, any recommendation as to where to send them?

My custom headers are one piece, but my hooker adjustables are a total of eight pieces. The coating is absolutely no problem during assembly. At least, not on mine.
I don't use anything to seal the tubes to the collectors, and even though they were intended to be race headers, I added flanges so I could plumb an exhaust system. I have no leaks even with mufflers and 30 years of use.
As for who... I have no recommendations. The company that did mine was an off road shop in riverside CA. Very reasonable I thought. Maybe that's why they are closed.
Install of the hookers is the easiest under chassis headers I've ever done. Center two tubes up from the bottom, front tube in from the top, rear tube in thru the hole in the inner fender, slip on and bolt up collector, done. Maybe ten minutes per side. The only one easier is my fenderwell header car, no inner fenders at all!

 

[TXOval]

Unfortunately I none with the Sanderson’s on from below.

The DD9’s are what you need for 66 and earlier.

I’ll try to get a pic from below for you. Here is a pic from the top drivers side.

 

[abodyjoe]

Sure, send it along. Thanks

Fuccello's Custom Exhaust

 

[AJ/FormS]

Somebody should probably mention
1) that if you have a stock 2-bbl 8/1 engine, that cam has little to no overlap, (20 degrees IIRC) so headers will not give you any top-end rush.
and IIRC, those header tubes are sized for a 340, and way too big for a 273. So, Ima thinking, the power assist over log-manifolds, will be very gentle, and for me the final nail in the coffin is that the 2-barrel cam is all done by 4400.
2) so, unless you have a tuned induction system, IMHO, the headers will not do much for you, especially below 3000 rpm.
3) they will still help from 3000 up, but that's gonna also depend on the induction system.
4) with street friendly gears being about 3.23s, and a 4-speed, with 24.5" tires, 3000rpm works out to 25mph in first gear. So that's about where you can expect the header-assisted-powerband to begin. If an 8/1 engine, you may not get much assist for about another 600 rpm so, about 30mph.
5) only you can say if this swap will be worth it; but be prepared to answer all the questions that you are gonna get at carshows.
6) As to front tire clearance, there is nothing you can do, that will not just create a different problem. You will just have to live with the reduced turning radius.
Yes you can push your wheels out further, but that will change the scrub radius and induce wandering.
Yes you can increase the ride height, but that will require a realignment and probably new leafsprings, still affect the scrub-radius, and the tires will still rub.
Those of us who have done this thing all say "bad idea" .
Plus
All that dual-exhaust system is heavy, and is gonna add over 70 pounds to your car over the 273 logs, , about half of which is on gonna be on the front end, and which is gonna require more hp at the stripe just to break even. Thus, whatever power increase you might get, it will be lost in the additional weight, which you will have to lug around all the time, at rpms way less than 4400..

Don't get me wrong.
If I had a set of fenderwells hanging on the wall for a few years already, I'd want to use them too. But, Id hang them on a bigger engine with a bigger cam, with way more cylinder pressure, and an automatic, an 8.75, and with big fat stoppers on the back, lol.
Butsee; this is why I don't have an early-A; trynta fit all what I said is just way easier in the 67 up chassis, for just a modest weight gain, which, combo for combo, is around 300 pounds . and Whereas the early-A is about as light as it gets, the Duster/Demon, big-tub cars, can be significantly lightened. and, The FB Barracudas are the easiest to get to near 50% rear weight bias , because of the big fat rear window. ....... which is why I have one now, lol.

But
I agree with your assessment, that fendewells look badazz.