Self adjusters keep overtighten

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In post #20,The push-pin rides up cuz the E-brake is applied in that pic.
But also the shoe retainer, at the top, is not properly located on the stud, and the rear shoe appears to have slid forward and off to the outboard side.
Nevermind it's just the cable anchor fooling my brain.....lol
 
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Your drums look to be at max diameter or more maybe (many cuts or excessive wear). New shoes will then have a much smaller diameter or arc. Under firm application the shoes spread to match the larger arc of the drums, causing too much pull on the adjuster cable, tightening the adjusters too much. If you install new drums or have the shoes arc ground to match the drums, I believe your problems will be over.

Also yours are the old style adjusters, pre 1969 I believe, which turned the star wheel on the down stroke. The new style adjusters, used until the demise of drum brakes, adjusted the star wheel on the upstroke and proved to be more reliable (not interchangeable). Adjusters usually have L or R stamped on the end of the stud under the free spinning end.

New style bendix adjusters just for reference:

adjuster.jpg
 
AJ/FormS said:
Aft is indicating towards the stern of the boat. So we just use it as an abbreviation for "towards the rear or the rearmost part of the vehicle". So yours would then be correctly installed.
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I was thinking it was something along those lines :) Learned something new in English :)
 
RedFish said:
Arrows drawn on one of your pics. Nothing about this adjust paw looks right to me. Where it rides in the hole, what is holding the cable and spring in it , spot looks grinded on ?
The half moon shaped cable guides are supposed to have little necks on them that hold them in the proper location ( when held there while that spring is placed on the upper post before the other return spring ). If that cable guide is low the cable runs long. But the pic suggests that cable is short. Then a push pin from wheel cylinder appears to be running upwards. Darned if I know. Good luck with it.

View attachment 1714954826
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I agree that it looks grinded on. I only took a wire wheel to it to clean it up though. Is my arrows to the left pointing at the halfmoon and the neck you are referring to (just double checking since English is not my first language). In this picture the parking brake is applied that is why the push pin is looking to be pushing upwards.

IMG_6146.JPG
 
340demon72 said:
Your drums look to be at max diameter or more maybe (many cuts or excessive wear). New shoes will then have a much smaller diameter or arc. Under firm application the shoes spread to match the larger arc of the drums, causing too much pull on the adjuster cable, tightening the adjusters too much. If you install new drums or have the shoes arc ground to match the drums, I believe your problems will be over.

Also yours are the old style adjusters, pre 1969 I believe, which turned the star wheel on the down stroke. The new style adjusters, used until the demise of drum brakes, adjusted the star wheel on the upstroke and proved to be more reliable (not interchangeable). Adjusters usually have L or R stamped on the end of the stud under the free spinning end.

New style bendix adjusters just for reference:

View attachment 1714954834
Click to expand...

How do you tell that they are at max and have excessive wear? Is it from the thickness of the lip that the arrow point to? Running my finger around the surface it felt even and i did not feel any cuts.

And yes, I have the old style adjusters. I guess they changed them for a reason.

IMG_6141.JPG
 
About the only way to tell how worn they are is to measure them with the special brake-drum measuring tool. I think the point hat 340Demon was making was more that the brake shoes need to be shaped to match the drums.
This does not seem to be done much any more, cuz most vehicles today have discs on the front, AND the rear brakes are only asked to do about 15% of the work. So if they take several thousands of miles to break in, most drivers will never notice.
However, I sortof agree that in your situation, machining the shoes to fit the drums could be beneficial to eliminating the self-adjuster issue.
I thought your country, at least the parts where you live, was relatively flat? Or maybe that was Finland. Anyway, where I live, the country is pretty flat, and I have not used an E-brake in decades,lol
 
It all looks good to me. Are the spring nice and tight and are they for 10" I put elevens on once and had a problem with them. Hey here is a idea did you grease the flat tabs on the backing plates where the shoes rub? Possibly sticking and not returning from that.
 
That could do it if one drum is smaller than the other good call. You measure them across on the inside. The maximum diameter should be listed on the outside of the drums.
 
Just for the sake of knowledge... A lot of taxi/police builds didn't include all of the self adjust components. Inspect and manual adjust was part of their periodic maintenance routine. I'm not saying you should toss the cables and guides in the glove box but you certainly could.
 
They are 10". I'm by no means an expert, but the springs feel tight and snug. Everything else seem to move freely. I'm gonna be replacing the brake shoes out back because of the broken of lining on the secondary shoe. So it will come apart. I'll take a good look as how the arch of the new shoes lines up with the drum.

I'll see if it makes a difference if I lay of my habit of using the parking brake when it's back together. I want to thank you all for the help and input.
 
Buy some new spring sets and adjuster cables and replace both sides. The passenger side is adjusting more probably because it moves more easily than the driver's side, due to a weak spring. This is a common cause for drum brakes on opposite sides to apply unevenly.
 
Looks like the park cable is out of adjustment. Holding on partially causing the brake to be held on partially. It will react the way you describe.
 
chryslerfat said:
Looks like the park cable is out of adjustment. Holding on partially causing the brake to be held on partially. It will react the way you describe.
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That is something to investigate. If someone has been under the car and drawed up the park brake cable adjustment, All new hardware kits both sides wouldn't cure it.
There's another recent thread about altering front spring hangers or whatever it takes to move the rear axle back an inch or so. Probably 8.25 replacing 7.25. Anyway... In those cases,, or where the park brake cable has been rerouted for subframe connectors, Readjusting the cables might be necessary to avoid this type of brake problem.
 
image.jpeg

The white arrow shows a problem at the shoe pivot point. The shoe should always remain on this pivot during all modes of operation. The white arrow with the blue outline shows that the guide washer is not fully seated on the pivot post. This will allow the shoes to wander off the pivot post.
 
I am not agreeing with the above post...... I would expect the front shoe upper end to move off of the pivot point when the parking brake is applied with no drum in place. The p-brake bar is pushing solely on the front shoe, and needs the drum to keep the shoe aligned and to move it around in the normal path to push on the rear shoe when the p-brake is applied.

And doesn't the ring on the end of the adjuster cable just ride on top of the 'guide washer'? ( I am assuming you are calling the guide washer the irregularly shaped flat steel piece on the post and under the ring and springs.) The ring does not set the shoe location; it just 'hangs' on the post.
 
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