Shopping list

[rich_mc]

Starting to brainstorm for next winter's project... Torn between an N/A build on my current slant, a supercharged build on my current slant, or a G3 Hemi swap... Whichever is chosen would go into a 76 Scamp....

Does this seem likely a halfway complete +/- 15% shopping list for doing Torqstorm on a 225? Anything in excess or that I'm missing that you can see?

Description	Link
Holley Sniper 2300 For Forced Induction	Holley Sniper EFI 550-852 Holley Super Sniper EFI 2300 Self-Tuning Kit - Shiny Finish
Fuel Tank	Sniper 19-533 Holley Sniper EFI - Stock Replacement Fuel Tank - Mopar A-Body - CR11D
Tank Straps	Sniper 19-572 Fuel Tank Straps
EFI Fuel Pump	Holley Sniper EFI 12-319 Holley EFI Fuel Tank Modules - 255 LPH - Mopar A-Body
Intake Manifold	Slant 6 Chrysler Aussiespeed 2 Barrel Short Runner Manifold 1 Piece Suit Holley or Weber Downdraft Carb AS0570 | Aussiespeed Street & Racing Products Australia
Distributor	Dodge Slant 6 Tri-Power Distributor – Performance Distributors
Plug Wires	Dodge/Chrysler LiveWires – Performance Distributors
Ignition Box	MSD Ignition 6462 MSD 6-BTM CD Ignitions | Summit Racing
Supercharger	Slant 6 – Single Charger Kit | TorqStorm

 

[rich_mc]

Here it is currently. Would be doing a lot of clean-up and painting at the same time.

 

[rich_mc]

I should also state it has a stock exhaust manifold with the TTI slant 6 system. I'd probably go to work on the manifold outlet with a grinder while it is apart to get it to better mesh with the TTI 2.5".

 

[kesteb]

Is the Holley going to control the timing?

 

[rich_mc]

Is the Holley going to control the timing?

I'm new at motor work and could be wrong, but I think the MSD 6462 does that?

 

[MadScientistMat]

TBIs suffer from fuel distribution issues, and you typically get as big a leap in drivability going from TBI to multiport as you do with going carb to TBI. A blower plus TBI can definitely work if you get one with injectors large enough for your HP target and with a MAP sensor that will handle your target boost, but you're leaving a lot on the table - particularly since Gill Welding and Ausiespeed both offer port EFI manifolds now.

And if you already have EFI electronics on the car, you might as well let them handle the boost retard. EFI timing controls require a locked distributor; a Lean Burn unit is a pretty clean way to achieve that if you don't want to go all out and use a crank trigger.

If you're replacing the fuel tank anyway, weld a sump on it and use an external pick up. Less likely to have fuel slosh issues and suddenly lose your fuel on turns, and cheaper. Then run the fuel return in through the pick up tube.

 

[rich_mc]

TBIs suffer from fuel distribution issues, and you typically get as big a leap in drivability going from TBI to multiport as you do with going carb to TBI. A blower plus TBI can definitely work if you get one with injectors large enough for your HP target and with a MAP sensor that will handle your target boost, but you're leaving a lot on the table - particularly since Gill Welding and Ausiespeed both offer port EFI manifolds now.

And if you already have EFI electronics on the car, you might as well let them handle the boost retard. EFI timing controls require a locked distributor; a Lean Burn unit is a pretty clean way to achieve that if you don't want to go all out and use a crank trigger.

If you're replacing the fuel tank anyway, weld a sump on it and use an external pick up. Less likely to have fuel slosh issues and suddenly lose your fuel on turns, and cheaper. Then run the fuel return in through the pick up tube.

Thank you. You've given me a lot more to research and learn about.

 

[racerjoe]

Starting to brainstorm for next winter's project... Torn between an N/A build on my current slant, a supercharged build on my current slant, or a G3 Hemi swap... Whichever is chosen would go into a 76 Scamp....

Does this seem likely a halfway complete +/- 15% shopping list for doing Torqstorm on a 225? Anything in excess or that I'm missing that you can see?

Description	Link
Holley Sniper 2300 For Forced Induction	Holley Sniper EFI 550-852 Holley Super Sniper EFI 2300 Self-Tuning Kit - Shiny Finish
Fuel Tank	Sniper 19-533 Holley Sniper EFI - Stock Replacement Fuel Tank - Mopar A-Body - CR11D
Tank Straps	Sniper 19-572 Fuel Tank Straps
EFI Fuel Pump	Holley Sniper EFI 12-319 Holley EFI Fuel Tank Modules - 255 LPH - Mopar A-Body
Intake Manifold	Slant 6 Chrysler Aussiespeed 2 Barrel Short Runner Manifold 1 Piece Suit Holley or Weber Downdraft Carb AS0570 | Aussiespeed Street & Racing Products Australia
Distributor	Dodge Slant 6 Tri-Power Distributor – Performance Distributors
Plug Wires	Dodge/Chrysler LiveWires – Performance Distributors
Ignition Box	MSD Ignition 6462 MSD 6-BTM CD Ignitions | Summit Racing
Supercharger	Slant 6 – Single Charger Kit | TorqStorm

Don't waste your time doing anything with that slant 6 other than taking it out and throwing it in the dumpster.

The G3 will certainly cost more, but you won't be disappointed with a V8 over the /6. You will be disappointed that the /6 will still be turd after you spend all that money on it.

 

[rich_mc]

Don't waste your time doing anything with that slant 6 other than taking it out and throwing it in the dumpster.

The G3 will certainly cost more, but you won't be disappointed with a V8 over the /6. You will be disappointed that the /6 will still be turd after you spend all that money on it.

I actually went last Friday and picked up this pile of 383 stuff and thinking to try my hand at a rebuild. Never done it before, but ought to be able to figure it out. I got the engine and tranny separated - need to go buy an engine stand today and continue on with the disassembly.

[SOLD] - 383 Engine and trans, heads, and Abody exhaust manifolds

 

[racerjoe]

I actually went last Friday and picked up this pile of 383 stuff and thinking to try my hand at a rebuild. Never done it before, but ought to be able to figure it out. I got the engine and tranny separated - need to go buy an engine stand today and continue on with the disassembly.

[SOLD] - 383 Engine and trans, heads, and Abody exhaust manifolds

Since you said you were new to this, I'll speak candidly.
Slant 6 = boring, no matter what you do to it- IMO they are garbage as previously stated.
G3 = lots of challenges but can be overcome now with support from vendors like Holley, TTI, etc. Just getting a G3 in an A body can be a challenge, all of which are well documented in this forum. It won't be an easy drop in. After you mechanically get it in, you will have to overcome the EFI, if you chose to keep it. I don't know your level of knowledge on EFI, but it can be a lot for someone that doesn't understand it.
383 big block = probably the easiest big block to put in an A body since it has the shortest deck height of all the big blocks. There are adapter motor mounts and headers that will simplify things. Parts are abundant for these things both new and used.
Any V8 swap will require a new transmission and likely a rear end since your car probably has a 7-1/4".

As with any project, you need to decide what you want your end goal to be. Also realize the car will be down for a while you are doing the swap, especially since you are new to this. Again, I don't know your mechanical ability, but it's easy to struggle when you're inexperienced.

 

[rich_mc]

Since you said you were new to this, I'll speak candidly.
Slant 6 = boring, no matter what you do to it- IMO they are garbage as previously stated.
G3 = lots of challenges but can be overcome now with support from vendors like Holley, TTI, etc. Just getting a G3 in an A body can be a challenge, all of which are well documented in this forum. It won't be an easy drop in. After you mechanically get it in, you will have to overcome the EFI, if you chose to keep it. I don't know your level of knowledge on EFI, but it can be a lot for someone that doesn't understand it.
383 big block = probably the easiest big block to put in an A body since it has the shortest deck height of all the big blocks. There are adapter motor mounts and headers that will simplify things. Parts are abundant for these things both new and used.
Any V8 swap will require a new transmission and likely a rear end since your car probably has a 7-1/4".

As with any project, you need to decide what you want your end goal to be. Also realize the car will be down for a while you are doing the swap, especially since you are new to this. Again, I don't know your mechanical ability, but it's easy to struggle when you're inexperienced.

Thanks for the effort to help - much appreciated... My mechanical experience is pretty limited, but I've been learning a lot via FABO, youtube, misc searches, etc... Over last winter, I did do front suspension rebuild/upgrade, 4 wheel disc brake swap, and upgrade to an 8-3/4" with 3.23s, added sway bars, new leaf springs, etc... rebuilding the rear end with new pinion/ring gears, bearings/races, setting backlash/preload, etc has probably been the most complex mechanical job I've done so far...

At this point it is driving splendidly, just wimpy.

I feel like the driveline from the tail end of the transmission to the tires on the ground is pretty solid. I really wanted to get that all whipped into shape before I tried to tackle anything with the engine. If I can get this 383 disassembled, unseized, block checked, and looks like it can be rebuilt, then I'll most likely proceed down that path. It did come with a 727 which I'll likely send off for rebuild as I'm sure that part will be over my head... I really liked the G3 idea on paper, but as you said I think it'd be a real struggle since I know very little about EFI... maybe that'll be another step in 5 years or so as more knowledge is gained...

Got a build thread going here if interested: A-Body Round #2- My '76 Scamp restore...

 

[kesteb]

I see the V8 contingent has checked in.

You will also need some adapter motor mounts for the 383, a larger radiator and bigger torsion bars. Don't forget to drill some holes in the driver side splash guard so you can change the back spark plugs. And headers are only around $1200 to get a set that actually fit.

And when you get done, you will have another boring big block A-body.

Or you could have a supercharged, EFI fueled \6. When was the last time you saw one of those at the car show...

 

[rich_mc]

I see the V8 contingent has checked in.

You will also need some adapter motor mounts for the 383, a larger radiator and bigger torsion bars. Don't forget to drill some holes in the driver side splash guard so you can change the back spark plugs. And headers are only around $1200 to get a set that actually fit.

And when you get done, you will have another boring big block A-body.

Or you could have a supercharged, EFI fueled \6. When was the last time you saw one of those at the car show...

True enough... I'm working on disassembling the 383 now and trying to figure out why it is seized... found a bunch of acorns in the head so far... part of me does really hate the idea of losing the /6...

 

[rich_mc]

I see the V8 contingent has checked in.

You will also need some adapter motor mounts for the 383, a larger radiator and bigger torsion bars. Don't forget to drill some holes in the driver side splash guard so you can change the back spark plugs. And headers are only around $1200 to get a set that actually fit.

And when you get done, you will have another boring big block A-body.

Or you could have a supercharged, EFI fueled \6. When was the last time you saw one of those at the car show...

And to answer the question, I have never seen one at a car show, which is kinda appealing...

 

[rich_mc]

True enough... I'm working on disassembling the 383 now and trying to figure out why it is seized... found a bunch of acorns in the head so far... part of me does really hate the idea of losing the /6...

Found the ugly cylinder that has the 383 seized. Next thing I'll do is flip it over, pull the crank, and see if I can't drive the piston out... At least that's my best guess as a first-timer trying to tear an engine apart.