silvadful
Well-Known Member
:worthles:
Show us your home made tools
- Thread starter fishy68
- Start date
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moparmanestock
Well-Known Member
I tried to post pics yesterday, but kept failing to upload. They may be too big, I will retry.
silvadful
Well-Known Member
sweet. i got that job coming up. motor not in car tho. cheers.=D>
Idaho
Well-Known Member
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- Oct 17, 2006
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Very nice work. Just wondering if the uprights might be weak in the longitudinal plane. Maybe a short third brace?
bighammer
Well-Known Member
I agree on both counts, sweet tool, but me thinks the two uprights may fold inwards, towards center, without more bracing. Just trying to be helpful here. It would be a dang shame to have catastrophic failure.
cjh
Well-Known Member
First one is a Ford quad cam V8 camshaft holder....stops them from moving when doing the cam chains and tensioners.
2nd is a Tool Post Grinder for my metal lathe, as are the last 2.
3rd is a set of tools for removing and fitting a slip yoke bush in a BTREng.
4sp auto tranny, as well as the rear oil seal installer.
4th is a set of tools for removing and refitting a harmonic balancer for a Ford SOHC 3.9 & 4.0 six cylinder, and the seal installer as well....all these tools make it so you don't have to remove the radiator to achieve it.
5th is a P/S Pump disassembly tool for Saginaw pumps.
6th is a tool I made for notching the valve reliefs/pockets in the crown of some pistons that don't have them in the right spot for the engine I'm going to use them in.
7th is a valve spring compressor for the Ford SOHC 3.9 & 4.0 six cylinder engines.
Thanks for your concern.
We discussed that when we were building it and decided to go this way. One thing I did do after these pictures were taken was to put a caster on the main beam that runs front to back. That made a world of difference.
I can say this. My Demon has been hanging on this now for almost 2 years and there's no sign of fatigue. It goes up & down smoothly and 1 person can spin the car by themselves.
Ted
We discussed that when we were building it and decided to go this way. One thing I did do after these pictures were taken was to put a caster on the main beam that runs front to back. That made a world of difference.
I can say this. My Demon has been hanging on this now for almost 2 years and there's no sign of fatigue. It goes up & down smoothly and 1 person can spin the car by themselves.
Ted
silvadful
Well-Known Member
ryobi dremel with remote hand peice
:finga:
:finga:
silvadful
Well-Known Member
how do you raise and lower it. just made one very similar but havnt put car on yet? still have to make centre brace from post to post . hopefully this weeknd
Idaho
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- Oct 17, 2006
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Not a shop tool but it is a tool of sorts. I built the chute controls from a wiper motor and a generic actuator. Spent under $100 on EBAY. The dealer wanted about $1000 for these options. I used an 18 mm socket with the square drive cut off, and drilled out to 3/4" (after heating to de-temper) to couple the wiper motor. The rotator teeth did not go all the way around. I cut an extra nine teeth so it can rotate 360 to prevent damage. It was a fun project. Snow is forecasted for tomorrow. 
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdkzppIRbDA"]Snowblower chute mods - YouTube[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdkzppIRbDA"]Snowblower chute mods - YouTube[/ame]
dwayneventon
dwayne venton
a picture of my homemade valve spring compressor i use it often.cant get the pic off my pic site it is a large c clamp with a large washer welded to underside of top hold area works great.
draginmopars
Well-Known Member
not really, home made, just modified
universal trans jack, didn't work well, as purchased, so
bolted a 727 pan to the top, to steady the trans, while installing or removal
and to make the jack earn its keep, instead of gathering dust
we use it as a tool tray, or while changing brakes a parts tray
even use it to install rear ends and gear changes
and as a tire jack to position it during the wheel tub project.
universal trans jack, didn't work well, as purchased, so
bolted a 727 pan to the top, to steady the trans, while installing or removal
and to make the jack earn its keep, instead of gathering dust
we use it as a tool tray, or while changing brakes a parts tray
even use it to install rear ends and gear changes
and as a tire jack to position it during the wheel tub project.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
I make a lot of my own stuff for body and trim work.
This is an old idea, but I made this, because I can't get one small enough to do the work I want it for, namely stainless and aluminum trim parts.
It's called a bullseye pic. It is used for striking on the blind side of panels. Most of them are much bigger and have a V channel foot on them.
Made this one out of 3/8 square tubing and 3/8 round stock rod. The head is a welded, ground and polished plate of mild steel with a very low crown. I wanted the opening to have support on all sides, instead of the open ended U and V channels that you typically see, to help isolate the dent as it's used.
The handle has a stop and two small pieces of the round stock welded, for a light pressure spring pirch, to keep the tool in your hand as you use it, like a pair of metal shears.
I'm going to make another, even smaller, that uses interchanging chisel tips as the striking head for super small stuff, like drip rail trim. Right now I set it on my bench and I hate flipping it, constantly, to file check and finish.
I just got four new hickory hammer handles that I plan on using for new body hammers. I want something with more reach and a nice, horizontal, deep crown and rounded edges for shaping. I'm tired of the universal ones that I have, with a shallow head.
Once I get those hammer heads done, I think I may end up making some bench heads, too. I'll post them up as I complete them.
If I get into it much, I may buy a smithy. I want a lathe, so I can make new specialty dies for my bead roller and I want to build a bigger english wheel.
I love the tubing straightener idea. Gotta make me one of those.
This is an old idea, but I made this, because I can't get one small enough to do the work I want it for, namely stainless and aluminum trim parts.
It's called a bullseye pic. It is used for striking on the blind side of panels. Most of them are much bigger and have a V channel foot on them.
Made this one out of 3/8 square tubing and 3/8 round stock rod. The head is a welded, ground and polished plate of mild steel with a very low crown. I wanted the opening to have support on all sides, instead of the open ended U and V channels that you typically see, to help isolate the dent as it's used.
The handle has a stop and two small pieces of the round stock welded, for a light pressure spring pirch, to keep the tool in your hand as you use it, like a pair of metal shears.
I'm going to make another, even smaller, that uses interchanging chisel tips as the striking head for super small stuff, like drip rail trim. Right now I set it on my bench and I hate flipping it, constantly, to file check and finish.
I just got four new hickory hammer handles that I plan on using for new body hammers. I want something with more reach and a nice, horizontal, deep crown and rounded edges for shaping. I'm tired of the universal ones that I have, with a shallow head.
Once I get those hammer heads done, I think I may end up making some bench heads, too. I'll post them up as I complete them.
If I get into it much, I may buy a smithy. I want a lathe, so I can make new specialty dies for my bead roller and I want to build a bigger english wheel.
I love the tubing straightener idea. Gotta make me one of those.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
Also, one cheap/ free way to get a cam in is to use an old cam as an install tool.
You just cut the head off of a bolt or use allthread and bottom it out in the cam with jamb nuts, take the nuts off of the thread, thread the old cam and stud into the new cam and it counterbalances nice, as a handle. If you use loctite, it helps keep the stud in the old cam/ tool.
If the bearing journals are good on the cam, keep them nice and use it for checking bearing feel on install. Use new cam to place old one in, check, flip it around, put the new cam in.
You just cut the head off of a bolt or use allthread and bottom it out in the cam with jamb nuts, take the nuts off of the thread, thread the old cam and stud into the new cam and it counterbalances nice, as a handle. If you use loctite, it helps keep the stud in the old cam/ tool.
If the bearing journals are good on the cam, keep them nice and use it for checking bearing feel on install. Use new cam to place old one in, check, flip it around, put the new cam in.
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
That's cool! Those Dremel cut off wheels suck though, at least in my experience. They seem to come apart if you look at 'em funny.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
I noticed that also about the thin ones. They make a thicker style that doesn't cut as well but stays together a lot better so it'd probably work good in this application.
cjh
Well-Known Member
I finally finished making my Car Rotisserie for my 62 Valiant sedans. I didn't have any plans, just made it on the go.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
cjh
Well-Known Member
I bought that gearbox about 18 months ago for another project, but didn't end up using it......but I have now.
It is a 30:1 reduction, Worn and Wheel gearbox.
I bought it brand new off ebay.
The motorbike sprokets give me a further reduction of 2.75:1.
I made some stabilizing feet so they can take the weight off the wheels a bit when getting stuck into the body work.
The thread isn't revealed when raising or lowering the feet.
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