Slant 6 Turbo 68Dart Project

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you are going to want to hook your bov and boost gauge to the manifold as well. you wanna see what the motor is getting not what the turbo is doing.
 
Serj22 said:
Oh, and cut a new length of aluminum 2.5" pipe for the turbo outlet now that it is further back. Luckily I still have a few lengths of pipe.
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Am I to understand that you are going to use some aluminum pipe in a part of the hot-side plumbing, coming right off the turbo outlet?

Have you considered the fact that aluminum isn't used for headers because it will melt?

Just sayin'...:eek:ops:
 
Oh no bill, not at all. I mean the outlet for the compressor side. The one that goes to the intake. Now that the turbo is pushed back in the engine bay, the shorter pipe no longer reaches the coupling near the radiator.



You can see in this pic, it is now too short to reach the turbo.
 
I am almost to the stage of pre-flight checks again. I'm still handling some reference lines, and just finished a short downpipe which should work all the way to work I guess. It's just a simple V-band setup with the 02 bung half way down it for now. I didn't like the look of the sensor hanging out near the top of the engine bay so now it's a little more hidden.

I also handled the kickdown by using a nice brass rod like i did with my old kickdown setup which was running for over a year with no issues. It is simple - just a bent rod down to the bellcrank.



It pulls the kickdown all the way out on WOT so it's good to go.



SImple downpipe for now. I'm thinking of taking it to an Exhaust shop on monday so they can cut the old exhaust out, and scrap it, and hang a shorty exhaust or something for now. Ideally the exhaust would exit out below the rear bumper, but I'm still planning all this out. Right now the exhaust is attached by its hangers and the transmission bracket, and doing nothing.
 
Well, I did all my pre-flight checks, and I rerouted all the vacuum lines like Rusty suggested, and I went ahead and started the car. No issues there. I got in and took it for a drive, and oh my... I was making about 2lbs of boost in town and the car felt like it was only 500lbs. The engine moved it so effortlessly it was unbelievable. I didn't take it on the freeway for some serious RPMs yet.. still scared. But the car worked so beautifully. I was really impressed with myself even with such low pressure - you can really feel the difference. It's actually night and day.
 
glad to hear you are spooling. sound like the the addiction is starting. its only gets better as you turn it up. just keep an eye on the afr gauge. at low boost it isnt crazy important to get it where you need it just dont hold it for a really long time if the numbers are bad. that short pipe has to sound pretty awesome.
 
RustyPlymouth said:
glad to hear you are spooling. sound like the the addiction is starting. its only gets better as you turn it up. just keep an eye on the afr gauge. at low boost it isnt crazy important to get it where you need it just dont hold it for a really long time if the numbers are bad. that short pipe has to sound pretty awesome.
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I was getting between a 13-14 afr just pushing the pedal down around town. I may need to adjust my accelerator pump more. It still runs leanish while trying to accelerate slowly, but not as bad.

The short pipe sounds cool. It's just really quiet and not quite what you'd expect. It stops right below the steering box and that's it.
 
Serj22 said:
Oh no bill, not at all. I mean the outlet for the compressor side. The one that goes to the intake. Now that the turbo is pushed back in the engine bay, the shorter pipe no longer reaches the coupling near the radiator.



You can see in this pic, it is now too short to reach the turbo.
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I shoulda KNOWN that!!! You are WAAAY smarter than that... you have proved it by coming this far with this project under some near-impossible-to-work-under conditions. I salute you, sir... you have done wonders! More to come; just wait 'til you crank some MEANIGFUL boost (say, 10 pounds?) into that liittle honey... LOL!:cheers:

You can easily see why Junior is right... boost IS addictive!!! :D
 
Bill Dedman said:
I shoulda KNOWN that!!! You are WAAAY smarter than that... you have proved it by coming this far with this project under some near-impossible-to-work-under conditions. I salute you, sir... you have done wonders! More to come; just wait 'til you crank some MEANIGFUL boost (say, 10 pounds?) into that liittle honey... LOL!:cheers: You can easily see why Junior is right... boost IS addictive!!! :D
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Haha, no worries Bill. I spent a while hacksawing that pipe in my living room, and with that last cut my $7.00 hacksaw finally went too dull to use. That's the same one I've been using this whole time for both the steel and aluminum. After that i beaded the aluminum with my homemade rolling tool.

I got to drive it again. My dad called and said he was stuck out on a backroad. His 2000 Metro finally gave up. I got there and he asked "is your turbo workin'" and then he said you could hear the whine coming from far away. Lol, now he's a believer. After i helped him out (his oil filter came loose - like really loose and dumped all the oil out - yeah it was f***ed) and got him a towtruck, I sped off and was climbing hills like no one's business. It's still only at 2psi but I'm not going very fast, and it still makes me giggle. I think the guy I pulled up next to thought I was a crazy person as I sat there and laughed hysterically and smacked the seat a few times.

IF this continues to work out the way it has been lately, this is a good reference on how to do this kind of project with minimal tools, because I did this all in my driveway.
 
13-14 is ok on light acceleration. that a good cruise afr too. now if you mash the pedal and build some boost and it stays there you will have a problem. if i had to start to tune a fresh carb again i would start with the pvcrs and a brpv. the cruise afr is usually pretty good in stock form. with the low boost a standard power valve should be adequate.
 
Serj22 said:
It's still only at 2psi but I'm not going very fast, and it still makes me giggle. I think the guy I pulled up next to thought I was a crazy person as I sat there and laughed hysterically and smacked the seat a few times. .
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i was doing the same thing on my last tune. i would just crack up when the tires would break free. ive driven slants my whole life. never have i had one that would actually set me back in the seat. just to think that a slant is producing that kinda power is laughable. ive seen the videos i knew it was possible but i had never felt it. its a great feeling.
 
You guys are making me think I should ditch my 360 magnum plans and hunt down the 225 that came out of my 69. It's sitting in the grass somewhere behind my shop.
Maybe I'll save it for my Demon project that got mothballed.
Congrats on your progress.
 
Idaho said:
You guys are making me think I should ditch my 360 magnum plans and hunt down the 225 that came out of my 69. It's sitting in the grass somewhere behind my shop.
Maybe I'll save it for my Demon project that got mothballed.
Congrats on your progress.
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you should. you wouldnt believe the power these things make.
 
Great job on the turbo install! Been wanting to do a small block ebay turbo deal but a slant might be a better option to start with, a lot more room to work with, and if ya burn one up you can throw another one in. I just passed on a 69 4 door with a 4 barrel and header for 1k, I should have picked it up!
 
Not likely Bill. As I understand it cost per HP is about the same. But you guys may be having more fun with the slanted version. Its fun just watching. I can see one in my future. Some day.
I remember the first time I saw a built six (no turbo) in a mid sixties Nova blow the doors off the V8 competition in a quarter mile race, it stuck with me - something appealing about that.
 
I found some old pics from when I bought the Dart...

Before:
CAM00430_zps48b68252.jpg


After:
 
Idaho said:
Not likely Bill. As I understand it cost per HP is about the same. But you guys may be having more fun with the slanted version. Its fun just watching. I can see one in my future. Some day.
I remember the first time I saw a built six (no turbo) in a mid sixties Nova blow the doors off the V8 competition in a quarter mile race, it stuck with me - something appealing about that.
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Neither will mine (360 MAGNUM/VORTECH V-1, S-TRIM IN A '72 VALIANT.)

My best for that V-8 car is mid=11's at about 118mph, with ten pounds of boost. I dare not try more... stock pistons and head gasket.... BOOM!

Ryan's slant six is WAAAAAY faster... (28 pounds of boost)

I just hope my '64 slant six car will run within a train-length of his '66...
We'll see soon.... got a trailer, now...:blob:
 
Idaho said:
Not likely Bill. As I understand it cost per HP is about the same. But you guys may be having more fun with the slanted version. Its fun just watching. I can see one in my future. Some day.
I remember the first time I saw a built six (no turbo) in a mid sixties Nova blow the doors off the V8 competition in a quarter mile race, it stuck with me - something appealing about that.
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Neither will my supercharged (10 pounds of boost) 360 Magnum... has a Vortech belt-driven S-Trim, V-v centrifugal blower, and can only manage an 11.50 or so at about 118mph... worlds short of Ryan's little six...

I just hope my six-cylinder car will run within a full second of his rocket...

We'll see pretty soon; I have a trailer, now...

Here's the '72 and the trailer.
 

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More video. I need to figure out a way to break through the 2psi thing. No freeway time yet, but i think revving around at 2k rpm in town should yeild a little more than 2. More adjustments taking place, and I still haven't heard anything from the blow off valve yet. No turbo flutter either, so that air has to go somewhere... Does someone know the gasket # that fits on the carb between it and the hat? I suspect the O-ring not sealing very well. I'd think it can't be anything past the carb, since the bov only allows air to release before the throttle blade, so the only weak link i can think of is that particular seal. I know Rusty mentioned the gasket number but I can't find it.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rz1Za4OTUs"]Turbo Dart 225 Tuned Slant - YouTube[/ame]​
 
felpro 2104 is the steel reinforced rubber gasket for the carb to carb hat. as for the boost. you wont/shouldnt see boost just cruising. it only comes on under a load. for ***** and grins floor it and stay in it for a little while. watch your gauges. what a/r is your hot side?
 
RustyPlymouth said:
felpro 2104 is the steel reinforced rubber gasket for the carb to carb hat. as for the boost. you wont/shouldnt see boost just cruising. it only comes on under a load. for ***** and grins floor it and stay in it for a little while. watch your gauges. what a/r is your hot side?
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I have no idea what the a/r is on the hot side. Cold says .50
 
looks like mine i would guess its a .63. if you floor it, it should start spooling around 2200. keep your foot in it until 4k. that should be long enough to see full boost. do you have a tach? its hard to get boost in first so try it in second or third.
 
RustyPlymouth said:
looks like mine i would guess its a .63. if you floor it, it should start spooling around 2200. keep your foot in it until 4k. that should be long enough to see full boost. do you have a tach? its hard to get boost in first so try it in second or third.
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It's really only driving in 2nd or 3rd due to the torqueflite.

It does start around 2k and then slowly goes up from there. The needle on the gauge moves so slowly you really gotta watch it to see anything.
 
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