Slant 6 Turbo 68Dart Project

[adiffrentcity]

Yea I think you'd have had to make the carb adapter, or modify a 90* elbow made for running a throttle body off a carb'd intake (efi conversion) Wilson manifolds and others make them.

 

[adiffrentcity]

Yea I think you'd have had to make the carb adapter, or modify a 90* elbow made for running a throttle body off a carb'd intake (efi conversion) Wilson manifolds and others make them. Probably cost prohibitive iirc.

 

[Serj22]

It looks like the cost would well outweigh what I want to do. I am looking back at the Holley 2 barrel. There's a metering block made for it that doesn't use jets, but an adjustable screw to balance between 60 and 80. I think it would be a wise purchase if I can't make up my mind on the carb, and the plate is only $65 from summit, and I might be able to find a Holley 2300 somewhere for cheap...

 

[Serj22]

I got another batch of stuff in. I am really close here. Not much more left. I have an exhaust shop that may want to do the work too luckily for not much money. I am also going to purchase a "J" length pipe myself since they're inexpensive, and let the shop create the entire downpipe after the turbo with what they have, and then I'll wrap both pipes.

My next two groupings are the rest of the oil fittings and electric fan setup. The other will be the entire intake system which will be the most expensive part.

Once I have it all, I'm going to run the oil lines, cap them off, bring a bunch of wrenches and such to retard timing in a parking lot setting, and then Get the turbo mounted, the carburetor and cleaned up manifold will already be on. I figure I can eat the poor fuel economy for a 20 minute trip to make things easier on myself.

I also wish my phone didn't take funky pictures here for some reason, but this is what came today:



I got:

2x wastegate flanges - $3.50 each
T3 flange w/ metal gasket - $15.00
5 ft of -6AN hose - $20
Oil filter adapter - $20

And the other thing i bought which hasn't showed up yet is the oil filter, I got a wix 51515 filter to mount on top of the gasket once I put it on.

I found this oil sandwich plate on a Honda forum and the idea I liked a lot. Instead of a system of brass T's on the sensor, I leave the sensor alone, unscrew the oil filter, screw this on in its place with the adapter, then screw the filter on top of this - and can run up to 3 things off of it. I am only doing a oil pressure gauge for one, and the turbo feed on the other. The holes are drilled into the filtered oil side, so should be good to go. I'm routing the 5' of line from here around the back of the head to the turbo, unless I decide to mount it closer to the front of the motor, then I will run it parallel with the stock fuel line, remove the fuel line, and run fuel behind the head. I just dont like routing hoses across the valve cover at all. I also want this entire install to look nice.





I also got a Holley 2300 to see what my options are and it was cheap ($30). I'll determine which one will run better (2300 or 2150) , and likely sell the other.

I am $300 deep so far in this project which is under my expectation. The fan part really isn't necessary, but I need to replace the one I have for room and because it looks kinda trashy now that it's a little dented and the paint rubbed off. The intake piping will set me back along with the carb hat, but I expect all will come in under $1k hopefully.

 

[player1up]

Are you still thinking of using the stock fuel pump and referencing it? Mine was done at 6 lbs of boost. It would lose prime and I'd have to crank and crank the engine to get the car to start after a good hit of boost. AFR's were pretty good right up to the point of no fuel

I have a 2300 for you that has most of the hanger18 mods done... for about $50 +shipping if you want it. Phenolic float, bigger jets, plugged choke rod hole...ect. send me a pm if you're interested. I also have an odd little dizzy that has a boost retard unit on it that you can have.

 

[Serj22]

Are you still thinking of using the stock fuel pump and referencing it? Mine was done at 6 lbs of boost. It would lose prime and I'd have to crank and crank the engine to get the car to start after a good hit of boost. AFR's were pretty good right up to the point of no fuel

I have a 2300 for you that has most of the hanger18 mods done... for about $50 +shipping if you want it. Phenolic float, bigger jets, plugged choke rod hole...ect. send me a pm if you're interested. I also have an odd little dizzy that has a boost retard unit on it that you can have.

Does it have the choke tower already cut off and such? I'm going to be using a failry low hat. PM me about this dizzy, I'm curious about it. Also which 2300 is it? I've noticed there are a few sizes in that range, but not all are a 350/500 which are the two i'm interested in. I have a 2300 coming but i believe it is a 285 or something. Could be wrong. I may be interested in yours though.

SO the issue with the fuel pump your saying is that the car would die during boost? Or just after the run, the second startup would be difficult? And yours was referenced and put out small F/R. That is good information. I keep leaning towards electric... more... and more...

 

[player1up]

Does it have the choke tower already cut off and such? I'm going to be using a failry low hat. PM me about this dizzy, I'm curious about it. Also which 2300 is it? I've noticed there are a few sizes in that range, but not all are a 350/500 which are the two i'm interested in. I have a 2300 coming but i believe it is a 285 or something. Could be wrong. I may be interested in yours though.

SO the issue with the fuel pump your saying is that the car would die during boost? Or just after the run, the second startup would be difficult? And yours was referenced and put out small F/R. That is good information. I keep leaning towards electric... more... and more...

The carb does have the choke horn cut off and it is a 350.
The pump problem is that too much boost overcomes the spring and will not allow it to return to pump again. It was a stock pump that was referenced via that old article floating around, And yes it would die in boost like you turned the key off.:banghead:
I used the mallory 4309 return style regulator and an inline pump after that fiasco.

 

[Serj22]

Good info. Looks like I'm squeezing in an electric pump, reg, and block off plate for the old fuel pump, unless I can just leave it there with nothing attached to it, I can't imagine it would hurt anything.

These regs go way over the price of the last one I just bought because rather than be adjustable, they're 1:1 under boost pressure, which is what I'm assuming I'll need. $1oo for a reg, and $30 for an inline pump.

 

[RustyPlymouth]

$30 seems cheap for a pump that can keep up with a turbo motor. you need 5psi fuel pressure over what ever psi of boost you are running. 10psi boost+5psi fuel pressure=15psi fuel pressure needed to overcome the boost and still provide adequate fuel. if its not strong enough you will have the same problem of it falling on its face going dead lean. what electric pump are you planning on running?

 

[Serj22]

$30 seems cheap for a pump that can keep up with a turbo motor. you need 5psi fuel pressure over what ever psi of boost you are running. 10psi boost+5psi fuel pressure=15psi fuel pressure needed to overcome the boost and still provide adequate fuel. if its not strong enough you will have the same problem of it falling on its face going dead lean. what electric pump are you planning on running?

I have not figured out which one to use, but a majority of what I saw was $30 and up. Most of these are listed in gallons per hour, wheras I do not see how that correlates to pressure Output. I'm assuming for the boost pressure, I would set the regulator to 5pounds on vacuum, so that way it increased 1:1 on the boost level, correct?

 

[RustyPlymouth]

I'm assuming for the boost pressure, I would set the regulator to 5pounds on vacuum, so that way it increased 1:1 on the boost level, correct?

sounds about right for setting up the pressure. as for the pump, i asked on a theturboforums a while back and they led me to the walbro 255. wasnt a steal but will be adequate for the power im planning on making. found it for $90 on ebay with free shipping. came with the fittings and mounting hardware.

[ame]http://www.walbro.com/media/39718/Rotarypumps5-8-13.pdf[/ame]

i will be running the inline. seems to be a pretty popular pump.

 

[Serj22]

sounds about right for setting up the pressure. as for the pump, i asked on a theturboforums a while back and they led me to the walbro 255. wasnt a steal but will be adequate for the power im planning on making. found it for $90 on ebay with free shipping. came with the fittings and mounting hardware.

http://www.walbro.com/media/39718/Rotarypumps5-8-13.pdf

i will be running the inline. seems to be a pretty popular pump.

In-line is my plan as well, and then I want the regulator on the firewall hopefully near the master cylinder. But everywhere I want to mount it, it would cause a fuel line to travel across empty space to get to the carb and I'm not a fan of that. I'd rather it stayed attached to something if you know what I mean. Lines floating in space is not appealing to me. So I'll probably figure that out later.

I also have a line on fabricating a carbueretor hat from aluminum with a neck to attach to the intake piping and will have a flange for the blow off valve. Should run about $40 to assemble it. More on that when I have the pieces - should also look nice, and eliminate need for one extra clamp in the turbo piping. We'll see how it turns out.

I also might wind up with about 4 carbs for this when it's done. There are some very nice people here and on .org that want to see their old turbo setups put to use rather than sit. I am getting an intercooler as it turns out because the price is right, and fits into the build budget, and since the cheapest way you can get piping is to buy an entire "intercooler kit" and you get a lot of pipes with different bends with it - you might as well run one.

Once I get a hold of the the intercooler, that may be the first part to go on, as it may require cutting stuff to get it in where I want it - actually i know for sure stuff will need to be cut. I either want to run it at the bottom of the radiator frame where that small shelf is, or behind the grill. I have a big radiator so hopefully it won't block too much air flow to the actual rad. I also decided with the new onset of having to run electronic fuel delivery to the carb, that i am cutting the fan out of the equation for now, until I see an obvious need to run it.

I have to keep in mind, that I have a (stock?) two wheel alt, and I am running a modern stereo, HID headlights, leds, 400w amplifier, etc... there's electricity being used, and the fuel pump will add to the draw. Then a fan on top of that... once I go fan, I think a new electrical system is in line, and now we're talking about more modifications.

I hope this junk helps someone out in the end, because remember the focus is not just on budget, but next to zero downtime for the car. I think that may be a point of interest for those turboing a daily driver.

This week, I am going to drain all the oil out, put the new oil filter sandwich on, mount my feed line, return line, and then zip tie them up out of the way and cap them off. Pop my new wix 51515 on there, then I'll refill with oil after the return line fitting drys thoroughly. That will eliminate the oiling system from the stuff to do list, and will be that much closer to "bolt and go" operation. Lots of tuning for sure... but you know what I mean.

 

[Serj22]

Okay, another $200 spent. $50 soon to come on some more stuff, but I just got me the final exhaust pieces for the exhaust minus the tubing for the downpipe, which I'm hoping an exhaust shop will maybe have and be able to fab up. I'm doing this in such a way that the exit on the turbo will be shot straight back, then down near the stock exhaust location and hopefully mount up before the cutout. The U bend I got has 6" legs on each side, and a 12" diameter, which should space the turbo away in a couple different options depending on where I cut it.

02 Sensor bung and plug: $5.00
U Bend exhaust tube in 2": $20.00
Thick Exhaust flange to mount to manifold: $4.00
28 x 7 intercooler and different 2 1/2" pipe bends: $140
Aluminum pieces to assemble carb hat solution: $25

Thinking this may shoot over $1k, with the addition of what's going to amount to $250 worth of fuel delivery equipment... but... wishful thinking right?

 

[Bill Dedman]

Okay, another $200 spent. $50 soon to come on some more stuff, but I just got me the final exhaust pieces for the exhaust minus the tubing for the downpipe, which I'm hoping an exhaust shop will maybe have and be able to fab up. I'm doing this in such a way that the exit on the turbo will be shot straight back, then down near the stock exhaust location and hopefully mount up before the cutout. The U bend I got has 6" legs on each side, and a 12" diameter, which should space the turbo away in a couple different options depending on where I cut it.

02 Sensor bung and plug: $5.00
U Bend exhaust tube in 2": $20.00
Thick Exhaust flange to mount to manifold: $4.00
28 x 7 intercooler and different 2 1/2" pipe bends: $140
Aluminum pieces to assemble carb hat solution: $25

Thinking this may shoot over $1k, with the addition of what's going to amount to $250 worth of fuel delivery equipment... but... wishful thinking right?

I have read all the notes pertaining to this build and to me, it seems that you have researched just about every aspect of it pretty completely, and made excellent choices that will make it work well for you. I think you'll be astounded at the amount of extra power produced at 8 pounds of boost. I think you're looking at an easy 250 horsepower and maybe more. According to the Wallace online calculator for drag racing, that should put your car (assuming correct chassis setup and tires, at 3,300 pounds,) into the high 13s, and would allow you to run favorably with similar weight STOCK 340 cars.

I can only recommend one course of action that I have not seen you address; When running a stock reciprocating assembly ( cast pistons, stock rods, etc.) detonation MUST be avoided at all costs.

You can ensure this by limiting your total spark advance to 18 degrees while under boost AND making certain that your A/F ratio stays between 11 and 12:1 under boost.

As far as I know, there is only one way to be certain of that; check it assiduously while the carb is being tuned with a wideband meter designed for that purpose. To do less is to invite disaster and, it won't be cheap, and it can happen in the twinkling of an eye.

Those meters are not cheap at $300+, but are a whole lot cheaper than replacing all those destroyed components if it leans out...

I just built a turbo'd slant six and i cannot IMAGINE trying to accomplish it without a wideband meter. It's easily the most important part of your build.

Good luck; this car will put a BIG smile on your face!!!

Bill

 

[adiffrentcity]

Serj,

Goofing on another site and found some stuff, blow through related that might be of use to you and others.

bowl vent tube mod

more bowl vent tube mod

boost referenced power valve

blowthrough mods walk through

 

[Serj22]

The vent tube extensions and all the "crutch" stuff is something I have researched fully. Matt who was on this thread a bit ago and offered me his old Holly has a 18deg limited distributor he is selling me if I can get him to respond back to me. lol. The BRPV and Vents were on my first list to do along with the other hangar 18 mods.

I have been thinking through everything as far as detonation goes. With this being a daily driver, I want to limit things as much as possible as far as total destruction goes. I was going to have the dizzy limited, a pod will be mounted on it that retards the timing under boost, but advances under vacuum as normal. There will be (what I think) is a pretty considerably sized intercooler on it, and if I ever have an issue, then you know I'll start shooting meth if I have to.

Basically I look at everyone's builds, and the second I see things like "the pump gave up and now I'm going with electronic fuel delivery" I just jump right to the electronic fuel delivery. No need to go backwards with something that didn't work. Even if 99 other people did it and it worked, I go with the feeling of doing it more "bulletproof" so to speak - because I can probably determine that 100% of the people that used the electronic delivery had a higher success rate of it working. There's no need to skimp on money when I am under budget and that will be the reliability portion of this build. If it doesn't get enough fuel it'll lean out, and that would be catastrophic.

The other thing I contend with is almost every other slant 6 car that's turbo-d is a race car. Maybe I'll race mine, but the goal is to have it operate for a 30 minute commute, every day, and to make it just work awesomely.

Also Bill, as an example, I have thoroghly watched your valiant as well, and I showed pictures of it to my dad because he didn't believe you could do "blow through on a carbed engine. You gotta put a pressure box on it" so that helped me in convincing him that he's not always right. Lol. And I showed pictures of the end of your header to my welder to show him what I wanted to do for the wastegate.

Also if I make 250hp, I'll be happy. I'm really just banking on 200 which is like $0.75c per hp on this build which means anything above I'll be incredibly happy.

 

[Bill Dedman]

The vent tube extensions and all the "crutch" stuff is something I have researched fully. Matt who was on this thread a bit ago and offered me his old Holly has a 18deg limited distributor he is selling me if I can get him to respond back to me. lol. The BRPV and Vents were on my first list to do along with the other hangar 18 mods.

I have been thinking through everything as far as detonation goes. With this being a daily driver, I want to limit things as much as possible as far as total destruction goes. I was going to have the dizzy limited, a pod will be mounted on it that retards the timing under boost, but advances under vacuum as normal. There will be (what I think) is a pretty considerably sized intercooler on it, and if I ever have an issue, then you know I'll start shooting meth if I have to.

Basically I look at everyone's builds, and the second I see things like "the pump gave up and now I'm going with electronic fuel delivery" I just jump right to the electronic fuel delivery. No need to go backwards with something that didn't work. Even if 99 other people did it and it worked, I go with the feeling of doing it more "bulletproof" so to speak - because I can probably determine that 100% of the people that used the electronic delivery had a higher success rate of it working. There's no need to skimp on money when I am under budget and that will be the reliability portion of this build. If it doesn't get enough fuel it'll lean out, and that would be catastrophic.

The other thing I contend with is almost every other slant 6 car that's turbo-d is a race car. Maybe I'll race mine, but the goal is to have it operate for a 30 minute commute, every day, and to make it just work awesomely.

Also Bill, as an example, I have thoroghly watched your valiant as well, and I showed pictures of it to my dad because he didn't believe you could do "blow through on a carbed engine. You gotta put a pressure box on it" so that helped me in convincing him that he's not always right. Lol. And I showed pictures of the end of your header to my welder to show him what I wanted to do for the wastegate.

Also if I make 250hp, I'll be happy. I'm really just banking on 200 which is like $0.75c per hp on this build which means anything above I'll be incredibly happy.

Here's something to show your dad... [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QzUfV8iTpQ"]Turbo Slant Six 10.74 @ 127 mph 7-19-10 - YouTube[/ame]

It's a blow-thru slant six that as no air box... and 500 hp.

I wasn't kiddding about the absolute necessity of obtaining a wideband meter ffor your A/F ratio... it's critical.

Do yourself a favor and make that a priority; you'll be glad you did.

Thanks for the kind words... :cheers:

 

[Serj22]

Here's something to show your dad... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QzUfV8iTpQ

It's a blow-thru slant six that as no air box... and 500 hp.

I wasn't kiddding about the absolute necessity of obtaining a wideband meter ffor your A/F ratio... it's critical.

Do yourself a favor and make that a priority; you'll be glad you did.

Thanks for the kind words... :cheers:

I am getting a wideband. That's what the bung is for that I ordered. :evil3: lol. I called it an 02 sensor, but I meant the A/F is what's going there. That's for the downpipe.

I showed him those videos too. His exact words were : "you can't just blow it through a carb without a pressure box, it just blows fuel ALL OVER THE PLACE and that's all it does. BEEN THERE DONE THAT. I did a twin screw (insert car name I forgot here) and it had two centrifigal superchargers and they went to a pressure box and it didn't really do much at 5lbs. Adding a turbo to your dodge will probably not do anything." lol. I love my dad but sometimes...

 

[RustyPlymouth]

i dropped almost 2 seconds off my 1/4 mile et with 5psi. just food for thought. your dad isnt completely wrong about it blowing gas. unless you get your throttle shafts bushed they will leak. ive noticed some gas around my carb after going for a blast. its not crazy though.

 

[Bill Dedman]

I am getting a wideband. That's what the bung is for that I ordered. :evil3: lol. I called it an 02 sensor, but I meant the A/F is what's going there. That's for the downpipe.

I showed him those videos too. His exact words were : "you can't just blow it through a carb without a pressure box, it just blows fuel ALL OVER THE PLACE and that's all it does. BEEN THERE DONE THAT. I did a twin screw (insert car name I forgot here) and it had two centrifigal superchargers and the went to a pressure box and it didn't really do much at 5lbs. Adding a turbo to your dodge will probably not do anything." lol. I love my dad but sometimes...

Here's another one for your dad.... a 3,300-pound '70 Dart that goes 11.02 @ 120 with another blow-thru 650 Holley on 28 pounds of boost...

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY"]Turbo charged Slant 6 11.02 @ 120.56 - YouTube[/ame]

My engine is a pretty accurate clone that one... I just hope and pray that mine will run within a second of that one...rayer:rayer:rayer:

BTW, the header photo was an early one and doesn't accurately portray the actual position of the waste gate port. It had to be moved to where the bung is shown; on center, closer to the flange. Needed to be better positioned for total exhaust flow.

 

[Serj22]

Bill, while I'm not looking for an 11 second car necessarily, I can't help but borrow from your build and the one you pictured.

The carburetor is in the mail along with the dizzy, and I'm very excited about that whole deal. Thanks Matt, if you ever jump back on here and read more of what I'm doing.

A couple last minute changes: Decided against a white valve cover and went with wrinkle black. I think that will look nice on my newly painted motor. I changed the entire color scheme again, so it's a custom electric blue 1shot mix I made.

Valve cover looks good. Kind of a cool finish for a $6.50 spray can by VHT.

While at autozone I also saw a VHT can of blue, white, or red exhaust paint. I chose blue and am going to try it again. I sand blasted the manifold this time so hopefully it sticks unlike the white. I baked the white after it was dry to the touch and that may be why it failed. I reread the instructions this time and it says to bake after it has dried for 7 days. Didnt catch that before.

Then with the manifold I'm going to find a way to jam the flap closed so it only directs exhaust downward, and maybe there's some way to seal around the top of the flap. I was thinking RTV copper or JB weld, but dont know how either would survive, or if they would survive in that environment. The carb I'm using is bolting to my supersix iron manifold with a modified inlet (one oval, rather than 2 circles). It has a provision for EGR, but I blocked that with a piece of steel I made that bolts where EGR would go.

We'll see how the manifold turns out after I bake it. I then am going to probably drill it all the way through where the larger bolt goes through to cut the chances of a bolt sticking there (and breaking again) just to make life easier.

The intercooler and piping kit showed up, along with one piece for my intake carburetor hat. The other one still has yet to get here. The intercooler is a lot larger than I was hoping for but at $120 for the cooler, all the piping, sleeves, and clamps - I'll live. I will drop the bumper and grill and get to mounting it. I am really hoping to leave the battery where it is and come into the engine bay on both sides - driver's side under the battery tray, and passenger side between the horns and radiator. I'lll likely remove the horns, paint them black and move them somewhere behind the grill if I have to. Hopefully if my measurements are correct, it will be just under the parking lights and the ends of it will be right about on the same axis as the lights. The other option is to move it further down, and maybe cut the angled bracket that goes from the radiator frame. This would put it down fairly low, and I'd risk curbing it when parking perpendicular with a sidewalk. Maybe I'll find a piece of steel to put in front of it if I go that route.

 

[Bill Dedman]

Bill, while I'm not looking for an 11 second car necessarily, I can't help but borrow from your build and the one you pictured.

The carburetor is in the mail along with the dizzy, and I'm very excited about that whole deal. Thanks Matt, if you ever jump back on here and read more of what I'm doing.

A couple last minute changes: Decided against a white valve cover and went with wrinkle black. I think that will look nice on my newly painted motor. I changed the entire color scheme again, so it's a custom electric blue 1shot mix I made.

Valve cover looks good. Kind of a cool finish for a $6.50 spray can by VHT.

While at autozone I also saw a VHT can of blue, white, or red exhaust paint. I chose blue and am going to try it again. I sand blasted the manifold this time so hopefully it sticks unlike the white. I baked the white after it was dry to the touch and that may be why it failed. I reread the instructions this time and it says to bake after it has dried for 7 days. Didnt catch that before.

Then with the manifold I'm going to find a way to jam the flap closed so it only directs exhaust downward, and maybe there's some way to seal around the top of the flap. I was thinking RTV copper or JB weld, but dont know how either would survive, or if they would survive in that environment. The carb I'm using is bolting to my supersix iron manifold with a modified inlet (one oval, rather than 2 circles). It has a provision for EGR, but I blocked that with a piece of steel I made that bolts where EGR would go.

We'll see how the manifold turns out after I bake it. I then am going to probably drill it all the way through where the larger bolt goes through to cut the chances of a bolt sticking there (and breaking again) just to make life easier.

The intercooler and piping kit showed up, along with one piece for my intake carburetor hat. The other one still has yet to get here. The intercooler is a lot larger than I was hoping for but at $120 for the cooler, all the piping, sleeves, and clamps - I'll live. I will drop the bumper and grill and get to mounting it. I am really hoping to leave the battery where it is and come into the engine bay on both sides - driver's side under the battery tray, and passenger side between the horns and radiator. I'lll likely remove the horns, paint them black and move them somewhere behind the grill if I have to. Hopefully if my measurements are correct, it will be just under the parking lights and the ends of it will be right about on the same axis as the lights. The other option is to move it further down, and maybe cut the angled bracket that goes from the radiator frame. This would put it down fairly low, and I'd risk curbing it when parking perpendicular with a sidewalk. Maybe I'll find a piece of steel to put in front of it if I go that route.

That exhaust manifold and rocker arm cover look really good! Nice work!

Here are some pix of my cold-side routing...

 

[Serj22]

Well, since my daughter had preschool today, but my son doesn't - and I had the day off I decided intercooler day was today.

http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/Turbo 225/IMG_20140821_081941_zps870e7924.jpg.html

I got to help a little but my son did most of the work today. I was just told repeatedly to stop taking bolts out of the collection bucket and throwing them in a bush. I also kept repeatedly taking the wrenches out of the box and spinning them on the drill. I just don't listen sometimes.

Popped the bumper off, way easy. 8 9/16 bolts and it came right off. It also wasn't as heavy as I was expecting. On the inside was a sticker that said "97 dart frt" so this bumper's been changed. Oh well - it's just interesting to find out.

http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/Turbo 225/IMG_20140821_085417_zpsc9f14ca5.jpg.html

After the grill and headlight equipment came out, I could see how I could possibly do mounting and routing of the piping. Just like I thought, my change to an intercooler on the build made this build 100x more difficult. lol. Oh well. Gotta press on. The driver's side I will be able to route into the engine bay right under the battery tray, and the passenger side will go up, and over towards the fender wall and pass underneath the alternator. Easy. Naturally my 3" hole saw took forever for me to find, but luckily I won't need it just yet. The horns did have to come off, and I will relocate those. I may be able to just flip them towards the radiator once the piping is in. We'll see.

http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/Turbo 225/IMG_20140821_094435_zpsb6b2c2aa.jpg.html

I took the hood latch/ grill support out. I have hood pins, and it is just going to be in the way. Once it was off I utilized the two upper mounting bolts to mount my hanging brackets that will support the intercooler. I figure once the piping is on it will be pretty stable.

http://s43.photobucket.com/user/serj22/media/Turbo 225/IMG_20140821_104652_zpsb9a6afc5.jpg.html

We checked to make sure the bumper is not going to strike it, and there is plenty of clearance. Now to just modify the grill and see if that can go back on. With this stuff going on I x-ed the HID's and halos. I'll sell em on here with the ballasts if someone wants. I'm going back to normal headlights to get all the space I can.


Pretty Soon is nap time, so I'll get to do some cutting and drilling then...

 

[Serj22]

Didn't get to do any cutting, so I'll go to town on it with my angle grinder at the shop at a later date. Luckily everything buttoned back up well and the intercooler is visible if you get down at eye level with it. Otherwise it dissapears except for what looks like two snake fangs on the grill. Hissss...

 

[vntned]

Keep an eye on your engine temps. You've blocked a lot of airflow to your rad. You'll probably be fine, but I've seen people block the entire radiator and run into overheating issues in the summer...

Looking great! Keep up the good work. Definitely inspiring me to boost the lil 170 in my '64 dart daily!