Solder seal wire connectors for automotive use - worth a try?

[MRGTX]

I don't know about you guys but between aftermarket gauges for tach, oil pressure, temp, etc. and the addition of electric fans, fog lights, etc. I have had to join a lot of wires.

While I would prefer to solder all of these connections, that's not always possible, especially when trying to join wires under the dash where you'd almost certainly drip molten solder onto your face. Maybe you guys have a better technique for this but I find it to be a pain in the butt connector.

The solder seal wire connectors are a small section of shrink tubing with a ring of solder in the middle. Wires are inserted into the tube (there may be a specific technique for this...) and heat is applied and supposedly you end up with a good solder joint that's protected from the elements.

Has anyone tried this? Would you attempt to use these in the engine bay or under the dash? It seems like the low temp solder would need to be kept away from exhaust manifolds/headers but it might ne acceptable elsewhere...

Image "borrowed" from Amazon:

 

[Cope]

They're ok. Im not a big fan of soldier less connectors beacuse they look like crap.

I tested a few when i first found them. It was hit or miss how easy they pulled apart. Never bothered to test resistance on them but its probably close to an actual soldier joint, just not nearly as streamlined.

If you are dripping soldier you are doing it wrong. Use thinner soldier.

The stuff i use is like 1/64 of an inch thick. It melts super easy. I also never use a soldering iron. I use a butane torch that is made just for soldering. Two alligator clips on a short section of solid coper wire is a handy tool for thise hard to reach jobs. O e end goes in each clip and the connection is held nice and straight now you have both hands free to make the joint.

A pair of automatic wire strippers are realy realy nice to have. As is the correct shrink tube and a decent heat gun. (The shrink tube i use is a 3:1 shrink ratio and has glue inside to seal the joint.)

To do it right you need a full on set of some specialized tools but in the end it is all worth it.

90 percent of this will end up under the dash.

 

[oldkimmer]

They're ok. Im not a big fan of soldier less connectors beacuse they look like crap.

I tested a few when i first found them. It was hit or miss how easy they pulled apart. Never bothered to test resistance on them but its probably close to an actual soldier joint, just not nearly as streamlined.

If you are dripping soldier you are doing it wrong. Use thinner soldier.

The stuff i use is like 1/64 of an inch thick. It melts super easy. I also never use a soldering iron. I use a butane torch that is made just for soldering. Two alligator clips on a short section of solid coper wire is a handy tool for thise hard to reach jobs. O e end goes in each clip and the connection is held nice and straight now you have both hands free to make the joint.

A pair of automatic wire strippers are realy realy nice to have. As is the correct shrink tube and a decent heat gun. (The shrink tube i use is a 3:1 shrink ratio and has glue inside to seal the joint.)

To do it right you need a full on set of some specialized tools but in the end it is all worth it.

Very well said Brian. Kim

 

[tjpatte]

They work pretty good, we use them on submarines and I haven’t had any issues. The nice part is you don’t have to have any soldering skill to use them. There is more to soldering than people think.

 

[MRGTX]

...
To do it right you need a full on set of some specialized tools but in the end it is all worth it.
...

Good points all around. I can see that you have some invaluable experience and skills with this task.

I'll look into a soldering torch. I would be a bit nervous with an open flame under my dash but I'm sure there are safety precautions that can alleviate this too.

They work pretty good, we use them on submarines and I haven’t had any issues. The nice part is you don’t have to have any soldering skill to use them. There is more to soldering than people think.

Well this is high praise.
And you're absolutely right about the skill required for proper soldering. I've gotten waaay better at soldering over the past couple of years but I'm always amazed when I watch someone who really knows what they're doing. I still have a lot to learn.

If these connectors are reliable and they can eliminate some room for error, they may be worth a try.

 

[oldkimmer]

It’s like anything else, it’s only as good as the install. The more attention to detail, the better. Kim

 

[Cope]

The torch i use dose not have an open flame. In fact it will not function as an open flame like the cheeper ones.

It could just be my personal bias but when i see solder less connectors i just think, "well that is garbage.." it is at that point i know i better look over the electrical system REAL close. If the guy was willing to use butt connectors (i know thats not what we are tslking about) then i always find vampire clips, wires twisted and taped and other cheep or "easy" repairs.....



Thats my take on it.

 

[tjpatte]

The torch i use dose not have an open flame. In fact it will not function as an open flame like the cheeper ones.

It could just be my personal bias but when i see solder less connectors i just think, "well that is garbage.." it is at that point i know i better look over the electrical system REAL close. If the guy was willing to use butt connectors (i know thats not what we are tslking about) then i always find vampire clips, wires twisted and taped and other cheep or "easy" repairs.....



Thats my take on it.

We use electric heat guns on the subs since anything with a flame is a no no. The tip of the guns have a shroud that wraps around the back so the heat wraps around the wire and doesn’t impact any of the other wires.

Agree with Cope on solderless connectors, people usually crimp them with a pair of pliers instead of a crimper which usually results in broken strands.

I’ve always been old school in that I solder everything.

 

[MRGTX]

The torch i use dose not have an open flame. In fact it will not function as an open flame like the cheeper ones.

It could just be my personal bias but when i see solder less connectors i just think, "well that is garbage.." it is at that point i know i better look over the electrical system REAL close. If the guy was willing to use butt connectors (i know thats not what we are tslking about) then i always find vampire clips, wires twisted and taped and other cheep or "easy" repairs.....

Thats my take on it.

Fair points all around.

I'm asking about these connectors exactly because I don't know if the "garbage" assessment is fair or not.
If they're relatively neat and reliable, is it still a problem for them to be "easy" too?

 

[RPMagoo]

-- The torch i use dose not have an open flame. In fact it will not function as an open flame like the cheeper ones. -- _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ --

-- Where do You get an animal, like that ?

 

[Jimacuda]

used them in engine bay and under dash, no problem. simple, effective.
heat gun does the job and you can see the solder wick into the wire strands.

 

[tjpatte]

Fair points all around.

I'm asking about these connectors exactly because I don't know if the "garbage" assessment is fair or not.
If they're relatively neat and reliable, is it still a problem for them to be "easy" too?

I think you will be fine, just don’t overheat the connection

 

[MRGTX]

I think you will be fine, just don’t overheat the connection

Good advice for sure.

Well $10 for a box of 120 connectors (various gauges) seems like it’s worth a shot. I just orderd some up. I’m planning on cleaning up my fan wiring first and I’ll share the results as soon as I can.

 

[jtkaaa07]

I use them all the time, need a good heat gun with the shield as mentioned above, have had no issues with any I’ve used. Just a tip, I always use shrink tube over the top of the connectors also .

 

[Cope]

-- Where do You get an animal, like that ?

Earlier i was looking for the one i have on Amazon to post a photo of it and i didn't see it in my quick search. Im on my way to the shop now, i will snap a pic of it. (I do t recal where i picked it up at but with the name it should be easy to find.) I will also note the type of soldier i use if anyone is interested.

Not sure if i will be able to post the pic as my photo hosting app is acting up lately but i will at least give you the info.

Just a tip when doing multiple wires like say a 3 wire tach, stagger your cuts. Cut one wire at 3", the next at 5" and the 3rd at 7". This way your wire wont end up looking like a python that ate an alligator...

 

[MRGTX]

...

Just a tip when doing multiple wires like say a 3 wire tach, stagger your cuts. Cut one wire at 3", the next at 5" and the 3rd at 7". This way your wire wont end up looking like a python that ate an alligator...

This could also reduce the risk of a short in the case of a less than perfect joint.

 

[moper]

Those are all I've used for years. No corrosion, IMO better vibration resistance, cleaner, etc. Pull apart strength has nothing to do with an effective electrical connection. The connection and sealing does. The wiring still needs to be properly supported and restrained for longevity.