Solid roller cam Vs Hyd flat tappet

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Owen Diaz

Owen Diaz

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So I have an engine I been building since last summer haven’t been able to be as consistent as I want with it with everything I have going on it’s a 89 360 block with KB107.060 pistons stock rods/crank bought a set of trick flow heads
(TFS-6141T784-C00) and installed only after I installed them I realized I bought the ones set up for solid roller cams. I originally wanted to put the hyd flat tappet set up I had from my previous engine and I know all I’d need to do is swap the valve springs to do that set up but it sounds like the solid roller set up might be the better way to go and I’d be able to get a bigger cam with that set up. Just wanted to see what you guys thought of this new to the engine building/ mopar world So any help or criticism would be greatly appreciated.
 
Roller much better. Call a cam company and tell them exactly what you have. If it’s street they can build you a lobe that’s easy on parts. By the time you buy roller rocker you’ll have around 2000.00 dollars in it. Give or take.
 
aaronk785 said:
Roller much better. Call a cam company and tell them exactly what you have. If it’s street they can build you a lobe that’s easy on parts. By the time you buy roller rocker you’ll have around 2000.00 dollars in it. Give or take.
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That’s alittle more then I was expecting to spend to be honest I knew the rockers would cost me about 600 from what I’ve seen online didn’t know the cams, lifters and other parts would be that much
 
Owen Diaz said:
So I have an engine I been building since last summer haven’t been able to be as consistent as I want with it with everything I have going on it’s a 89 360 block with KB107.060 pistons stock rods/crank bought a set of trick flow heads
(TFS-6141T784-C00) and installed only after I installed them I realized I bought the ones set up for solid roller cams. I originally wanted to put the hyd flat tappet set up I had from my previous engine and I know all I’d need to do is swap the valve springs to do that set up but it sounds like the solid roller set up might be the better way to go and I’d be able to get a bigger cam with that set up. Just wanted to see what you guys thought of this new to the engine building/ mopar world So any help or criticism would be greatly appreciated.
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https://www.manciniracing.com/hyd292292dur.html (mopar purple) This the hydraulic flat tappet cam I had in the previous engine that was in the car paired with a 3800 stall converter I plan on keeping. Pretty sure the cam is discontinued or just not sold anymore cause I can’t find it anywhere online
 
It is not the flat tappet cam that is likely to fail [ though a possibility ], it is today's lifters. Made out of pure crapanium.
I would find the money to go solid roller.....be nice to the mother-in-law....
 
do you have the lifters (in order) form the last engine to match that cam? if so you 'know' they are bedded together with no issues. i'd fit both to the new build and save the dollar towards other parts.
neil.
 
mygasser said:
do you have the lifters (in order) form the last engine to match that cam? if so you 'know' they are bedded together with no issues. i'd fit both to the new build and save the dollar towards other parts.
neil.
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Yea I do have the hyd flat tappet lifters needed to make it work just wanted to see if It’d be worth it to do a solid roller set up
 
I don’t know what springs are on the heads, but would want to makes sure they would be ok with the old cam. Going roller can be hit or miss on whether you need to bush the lifter bores.
 
Owen Diaz said:
Yea I do have the hyd flat tappet lifters needed to make it work just wanted to see if It’d be worth it to do a solid roller set up
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depends what you consider most important. those mancini roller rockers and a tfs intake to match the heads will still be less than the cost of a roller cam and lifters.
neil.
 
Not sure of the application but hydraulics sure can be quieter. Not sure about lift capability differences but that usually is a different component issue.
 
You could split the difference and run a solid flat tapper cam. More likely to work with the springs on your heads than a hydraulic lifter.

Edit: actually just looked up your heads. Seems you have 240lb seat pressure and a 500lb/in spring rate.
That will kill any flat tappet cam/lifter.
 
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I would go solid roller if I could afford it hands DOWN. The myth of frequent valve adjustments on solids nowadays is just that. A MYTH. With all of the quality parts we have available now, I would be more than surprised to see you need an adjustment more than yearly, even racing. Also, if it sees street time, my recommendation would be for "street roller" lobes, as they are not quite as aggressive as standard solid roller lobes and will allow everything to actually live a long and happy life. Just my 2 cents.
 
I have been running a sol roller in my GTO for over 20 yrs. I try & drive it at least once a week. I check lash every 2 yrs. I got over the boy-racer stuff a few years back, so I don't beat on it much these days. Only thing I would add is to use bushed lifters. I have the Iskies...not cheap....but worth it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I would go solid roller if I could afford it hands DOWN. The myth of frequent valve adjustments on solids nowadays is just that. A MYTH. With all of the quality parts we have available now, I would be more than surprised to see you need an adjustment more than yearly, even racing. Also, if it sees street time, my recommendation would be for "street roller" lobes, as they are not quite as aggressive as standard solid roller lobes and will allow everything to actually live a long and happy life. Just my 2 cents.
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What do you mean by “street roller” lobes I do plan on the car being mostly used in the street but want to be able to take it down to the track whenever I have time.
 
mygasser said:
depends what you consider most important. those mancini roller rockers and a tfs intake to match the heads will still be less than the cost of a roller cam and lifters.
neil.
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Was planning on running an Edelbrock intake which I already have from the previous engine
 
new to the engine building/ mopar world
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I’m going to guess from the overall tone of this thread that my opinion on this isn’t likely going to be the popular view, but……..

“New to engine building” & “solid roller cam” sounds like a pairing that has a lot of potential for not turning out well.
 
PRH said:
I’m going to guess from the overall tone of this thread that my opinion on this isn’t likely going to be the popular view, but……..

“New to engine building” & “solid roller cam” sounds like a pairing that has a lot of potential for not turning out well.
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Why do you think that? And what would you suggest. I’m open to all suggestions
 
My only suggestion would be to reevaluate what it is you really “want”.
If that turns out to be a solid roller, then great.
But if you had bought the correct heads for the cam you had, this thread wouldn’t even exist.

So, your interest in the roller seems more like an afterthought, perhaps as a way to avoid swapping the springs on the heads to something that would work with the current cam.
 
Owen Diaz said:
What do you mean by “street roller” lobes I do plan on the car being mostly used in the street but want to be able to take it down to the track whenever I have time.
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I told you. Street roller lobe are less aggressive and allow the roller to last a long time on the street at low RPM. If it's gonna be used on the street at all, that's what you want.
 
PRH said:
I’m going to guess from the overall tone of this thread that my opinion on this isn’t likely going to be the popular view, but……..

“New to engine building” & “solid roller cam” sounds like a pairing that has a lot of potential for not turning out well.
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Yes, I agree. Unless he's very careful. Maybe he can latch onto a friend or nearby member here who is more versed and can help him.
 
Owen Diaz said:
Mancini Racing Aluminum Roller, 1.6 Ratio I was planning on getting these rockers I heard there good to pair with trick flow heads
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I use the 1.5 version of those rockers with my trickflows.. they work fine... make sure to get a shim kit (i got mine from speedway) and you will want to shim the on the engine stand or you will hate life.. i had mine on and off 20ish times to get it all perfect.
 
Owen Diaz said:
So I have an engine I been building since last summer haven’t been able to be as consistent as I want with it with everything I have going on it’s a 89 360 block with KB107.060 pistons stock rods/crank bought a set of trick flow heads
(TFS-6141T784-C00) and installed only after I installed them I realized I bought the ones set up for solid roller cams. I originally wanted to put the hyd flat tappet set up I had from my previous engine and I know all I’d need to do is swap the valve springs to do that set up but it sounds like the solid roller set up might be the better way to go and I’d be able to get a bigger cam with that set up. Just wanted to see what you guys thought of this new to the engine building/ mopar world So any help or criticism would be greatly appreciated.
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BTW.. if that's a 89 LA block it should have the bosses for hyd rollers.. i run a '85 roller LA using oem lifters and a hyd roller cam.. it works fine. plus lifters are like $100 for a set for oem and new ones are cheap also. You are basically doing exactly what i did.. i have regrets but it does work decently :)
 
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