Valiant360420
Member
Well I drilled the holes, and now it runs worse.A simple 1/4" hole ($2) drilled through the top of each piston will reduce compression.
What year is your green Valiant?
Well I drilled the holes, and now it runs worse.A simple 1/4" hole ($2) drilled through the top of each piston will reduce compression.
Premium fuel.I'm seeing a lot of red flags here..
1. WHat fuel are you running? YOu should be running premium pump fuel.
2. Are you using vacum advance?
3. WHEN does the timing come in
4. What car is this in and what is the gear ratio
5. stock or auto
6. What converter?
180 PSI is nothing crazy nor is 9.7:1.
To remedy this you can run a wider LSA than you are running.
Beyond that, you need to adress the above questions to see what the issue is and how to remedy it further.
Are you suggesting locking in the mechanical advance and using no vacuume advance? I am receiving my advance limiter disk thing on Friday, so I will give it a try. I previously tried to limit the dist advance to only about 10 degrees (by jimmy rigging the heavy spring from extending) and using more initial, and it did seem to run better.
Well I drilled the holes, and now it runs worse.
What year is your green Valiant?
I'm saying to, yes, lock out the mechanical advance. That means skip the vacuum advance, because it will no longer function being that it uses the same plate.
rightfully so. But I can assure you that I have recently run this combo or close to it and im fairly certain in no way will 22° locked ping in my opinion ...but I am not the final word on anything here he might find that maybe it needs to be 19 and 22. Max initial and max full advance timing. It could be it doesnt like starting at 22, hence 19 comment, but probably be fine.Not sure I agree with locking the mechanical but it might need to be recurved. I DO agree with disconnecting vacuum advance--at least until you get it sorted. And I don't like manifold vacuum, either. I use "ported" vacuum
Mopar Performance distributor with vacuum advance and orange ignition box. Mechanical advance adds about 25 degrees right now, but I am putting in oneSo what ignition do you have? I know everyone wants to lock it out, but unless you are using points the ignition system WILL retard with RPM.
So you need to figure out what you have and how to work with it.
I just checked because you mentioned cam timing.3 initial? Dang! 22 total?!?!
I run 18-20 initial and totals between engines varies between 32-36 depending on the head. Your cam timing sounds out of wack.
I just checked because you mentioned cam timing.
It looks to be correct.
1/4" might be too much of a compression release. lol We like to start with 1/16 and work our way up. lolA simple 1/4" hole ($2) drilled through the top of each piston will reduce compression.
So I took off the drivers side valve cover and turned to motor over by hand. Had a friend watch the rockers and as I passed 360 degrees past tdc ( where the exhaust is just closing and the intake is just opening )I had him tell me where exactly the exhaust fully closed and the intake just started opening. I looked at the timing mark and the piston was exactly at the top. I repeated this several times to make sure he was seeing it right. I got this idea from another post on FABO and it made sense to me.Uh, what does this mean? You checked "what" and "what" is it that is correct?
I had him tell me where exactly the exhaust fully closed and the intake just started opening. I looked at the timing mark and the piston was exactly at the top.
This made me lol!Why are you using such expensive holes?
Mopar Performance distributor with vacuum advance and orange ignition box. Mechanical advance adds about 25 degrees right now, but I am putting in one
So I took off the drivers side valve cover and turned to motor over by hand. Had a friend watch the rockers and as I passed 360 degrees past tdc ( where the exhaust is just closing and the intake is just opening )I had him tell me where exactly the exhaust fully closed and the intake just started opening. I looked at the timing mark and the piston was exactly at the top. I repeated this several times to make sure he was seeing it right. I got this idea from another post on FABO and it made sense to me.
Thanks. Yes TDC has been confirmed with a piston stop. And I realize my rocker watching method is not perfect, but I figured it is telling me that the cam is pretty darn close. And I didn’t have to tear anything apart yet.That might not be accurate enough especially with hydraulic lifters, and just eyeballing the dampener as opposed to actually having it degreed / or degree wheel. ALSO has the TDC mark been confirmed with a piston stop? You know how to do that?
I will do it this afternoon.There is your problem(s)
That distributor brings in the timing FAST and LOW.
Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance. Use a NON-ADVANCE timing light preferably or use yours with no advance dialed into it. Use another light to confirm yours works properly as I've first hand seen one that doesn't. Mark your harmonic balancer at 34 degrees with a sharpie or paint pen. Shoot the light at it and rev to 3000 and make the line you made line up with zero on the pointer. Lock the dizzy down. Now check initial timing. Rev to 3500 to check total at 34 degrees again.
Let us know where the initial falls.
Then, with the vacuum advance still UNHOOKED AND PLUGGED, go drive it. Let us know how that goes. Your issues IMO are 100% timing related.
Yes. There was a slight overlap when both valves were overlapping, so we eyeballed the middle point. It seemed dead on.This statement doesn't sound right unless you are generalizing.... ^^^^^
The exhaust does not fully close before the intake starts opening...
The intake starts opening before the exhaust closes, that is what they call overlap - how many degrees the intake valve and exhaust valve are open at the same time...