Someone please help me

-
Iwannabefast318 said:
I'm still failing to se why this would cause it to die if I barely touch the throttle under load.
Click to expand...

It's pretty simple, it's called "bad connections." The thing is, the more things that are shaky, the more stuff gets added into the stew pot of "trouble." Now it might just be that the twisted wire connections at the ECU ground and at the ballast resistor ARE NOT the full problem, but they might be close to it. Maybe the carb is a little "off" and those twisted connections are causing poor spark performance. That may be the combination that "does" it or--it may be the vibration / movement of the engine moves one of your "twisted" wires just enough when you give it throttle, that connection loosens.

Fix the stuff that is obviously wrong. Then try and work through the rest of it.
 
Now would be a good time for a factory mopar one wire "Points Distributor".

Screenshot_20210603-092743_Gallery.jpg
 
Iwannabefast318 said:
and I'm still failing to se why this would cause it to die if I barely touch the throttle under load.
Click to expand...
If your connections are bad enough, imagine the engine movement and vehicle shuddering when it’s placed under a load, even a light load from idle. The connection gets interrupted which makes the engine stumble which shakes the bad connection (or probably connections in this case) more and effectively shuts down the operation. Crimp connectors, heat shrink tubing, and a $3 torch lighter from the dollar store.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSH17DK/?tag=fabo03-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084GDLSCK/?tag=fabo03-20


image.jpg
 
Iwannabefast318 said:
Idk how to post links
Click to expand...

Highlight the "Web Address" (link) from the top of the page you are visiting and want to share with others, from your web browser. Then Copy that Address.
Then Paste that Web Address (link) here to share with others.
 
Last edited:
How many wires do you have running to your ECU box? I only seen three in the pics, are you getting the four pin resistor?
 
Let's try this one. The last link I posted works, but it doesn't give a preview. By the way, you cleaned it up a lot!

 
Also new vid is almost out on my page, just use the previous link and look for the second video in around 3hrs lol slow data, but for the ppl that don't need a video explaining how it died on me, I was cruising around town, stopped at a stop sight and wouldn't turn over, she was getting gas so..idk
 
Garrett Ellison said:
How many wires do you have running to your ECU box? I only seen three in the pics, are you getting the four pin resistor?
Click to expand...

You are wasting time with the 4 pin ballast. That box is a 4 pin box and it only needs a 2 terminal resistor. The fact is, unless you run into some "new old stock," you cannot BUY a 5 pin box. The fact that the box actually has 5 pins is meaningless. The 5th pin is not connected, a dummy. The only way to tell a fake 5 pin from a real 5 pin is to ohm the "5th" pin to all the rest.

HOW DO I KNOW for certain that this is a 4 pin box? Because the transistor on the box is fake.

HOW DO you tell for sure? easy. With engine running, touch one finger to the ECU box (not the heat sink) and another finger to the transistor. If you don't get shocked, wet one finger and try again. You won't. It's fake. The real transistor on the newer replacement boxes is inside the box
 
Last edited:
Not sure what is going on here. But you need a Radiator, Fan, and Coolant if you are going to be driving that 318 powered Mustang around the block.

Now you said you stopped at a stoplight and it would not turn over.

Hope you did not seize up the engine tight from overheating it with no coolant.
 
George Jets said:
Not sure what is going on here. But you need a Radiator, Fan, and Coolant if you are going to be driving that 318 powered Mustang around the block.

Now you said you stopped at a stoplight and it would not turn over.

Hope you did not seize up the engine tight from overheating it with no coolant.
Click to expand...
It has coolant and the radiator keeps it around 180
 
LMAO! And I’m sorry about that but I am. I’ll be honest, yep! 100% honest, I’ve done what you did and also, have been that lucky. So, your lesson has been learned, DON’T DRIVE IT YET! Just wait! The cost will be huge if caught. And I suspect you know this.

Fist pumping in the air rooting for you!
 
j par said:
With the car not running take the air filter off hold the choke flap open look down there and pump the gas with your hand and see if it squirts fuel.. if the accelerator pump isn't squirting gas in a nice big stream of it it's likely the accelerator pump in the carburetor...
Click to expand...

The 2bbl carter carbs on 318's are known for having accelerator pump issues. I have changed a bunch of them.
 
Not sure where we are.......you mentioned alternator. We need to know "what you have." There are two major differences in alternators over the years. The 69/ earlier alternator only has one field connection. This is a "push on" "flag" terminal. If you have two of these on the alternator, you have a 70 / later alternator.

What do you have for a regulator? Ford? Mopar? If Mopar, we need to know if it is 69/ earlier or 70 / later as well. 70/ later has a triagular push on rubber plug. 69/ earlier has a screw connection one end, and a push on "flag" terminal on the other
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top