Speedmaster heads part 2. Plus intake work

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pittsburghracer

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for a change I didn’t have to deal will snowblowing my yard so I hit the shop and started on my sons Speedmaster heads then intake. I’m going to try to break down each post with pictures and maybe a little more detail to each area of the head so it will be easier if you want info on that area. First thing I did today was take both heads to my drill press to prepare them for tubing. I run a 9/16 drill bit through the two head bolts that run between all four intake valve. One on each head oils you rocker gear so these oiling holes will need redrilled at a later date. After I open up those two holes I run a 17/32 drill bit through the four pushrod holes that create the dreaded “pinch”. I then blow and semi clean the head for bench work. I cut four 9/16 part number K&S 141 (3.5 inches long) for both heads and eight 17/32 part number K&S #140 (2.750 Long) enough for both heads.
 
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Now remember I drill these holes the same diameter as the very thin tube so I you have burred hole, bent tube, dirty tube you’re screwed. Be clean. I only tube one head at a time so I get a piece of cardboard and lay down 1.250 inches of JBWeld and 1.250 inches of hardner. Mix and apply small amount (1inch) to one tube at a time. I then put a 1/2 bolt and washer on the head bolt hole tubing and with a plastic mallet drive it home from the head deck side carefully and wipe off excess epoxy with brake clean after each install. Same with pushrod tubing but I use 1/2 bolt and washer. Check out pictures
 
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I usually do this later but to keep it grouped I finished one tube. The pushrod tubes have to be longer than needed so it runs the whole length of the port then I use a burr to cut it down so I don’t create a pushrod rub. I will dress this up later with a flapper wheel when I deburr the head. Not worried about pretty right now
 
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Instead of watching the doggone Steelers I start some grinding. Stock pinch measured .900 and kissing the tubing I’m now 1.040 all burr work so it will end up slightly larger. If you look you can see the tube
 
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Now my common wall (straight wall) isn’t finished yet but look how much area you gain by tubing and kissing the tube. See the tube in the picture. We probably grained over 3/16 area heading into the short side. Much needed area to control airspeed. Hmmmm horsepower.
 
Going on 11pm so I’m done for the night. Wow that 6 hours flew by and it was great sitting at the porting bench again. Tomorrow’s plan is to mount up a stock head and flow it again. Then I will bolt a stock Speedmaster intake to it and get some numbers for the “out of the box crew”. Somewhere along the line I may flow a ported head with a stock Speedmaster intake to it. Then again after I port it.
 
This is great as I took the plunge and got a set of bare heads for future build and am looking to see what can be done. Thanks in advance for your show and tell
 
Going on 11pm so I’m done for the night. Wow that 6 hours flew by and it was great sitting at the porting bench again. Tomorrow’s plan is to mount up a stock head and flow it again. Then I will bolt a stock Speedmaster intake to it and get some numbers for the “out of the box crew”. Somewhere along the line I may flow a ported head with a stock Speedmaster intake to it. Then again after I port it.
Well that was time much better spent than watching the Steelers get their butts whipped by the lowly Bengals LOL....
I appreciate you simplifying everything for us rookies. Anything you can do to clarify any technical talk about short side and so forth would be appreciated...
 
Going on 11pm so I’m done for the night. Wow that 6 hours flew by and it was great sitting at the porting bench again. Tomorrow’s plan is to mount up a stock head and flow it again. Then I will bolt a stock Speedmaster intake to it and get some numbers for the “out of the box crew”. Somewhere along the line I may flow a ported head with a stock Speedmaster intake to it. Then again after I port it.


You are a porting animal! I’ve got a set of Vic’s heads out there I’m going to start on this weekend and I’m just not excited about the grinding. I’m certainly excited about the end result though. When done, these will be very nice and an upgrade from what my buddy has.
 
You are a porting animal! I’ve got a set of Vic’s heads out there I’m going to start on this weekend and I’m just not excited about the grinding. I’m certainly excited about the end result though. When done, these will be very nice and an upgrade from what my buddy has.


Lol it’s a love hate relationship. I love being in the shop but getting off my butt and walking the 100 feet isn’t getting any easier. Are the victors big block or small block. Both sets are great heads.
 
Lol it’s a love hate relationship. I love being in the shop but getting off my butt and walking the 100 feet isn’t getting any easier. Are the victors big block or small block. Both sets are great heads.


My bad...I used slang there. They are SB Performers. I’d love to get my hands on some Victors...except like you...its a love/hate relationship. Like you, once I kick myself in the *** and get to grinding it goes by pretty quick.
 
THANK YOU for this post, I'm not sure people realize how valuable this information is! It is incredible when a guy shares his talents this way....again, THANK YOU!!!
 
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Ok guys not a lot of info tonight but some good info. Column on the left is stock out of the box head with stock out of the box Speedmaster valves. I checked last years numbers and at different lifts some are better some are worse. Last years head had a stock new Edelbrock exhaust valve and a used 2.02 Edelbrock valve that I had put a 30 degree backcut on the intake valve. I took a picture of the post were one of our members said being stock it may not like that backcut. Well it didn’t as last years heads numbers were much jumpier and not as high. This head in my eyes stock would make some very nice horsepower with a .500-.600 lift cam. Would a better valve job help? I’m betting yes but I’m not going to pull it off, do a valve job only, and flow test it again. To much waisted time. Ok then I bolted the stock Speedmaster intake on and did another test. Thankfully it was one of the better ports on the intake as it’s got a couple buggered up posts casting wise (easy fix but I wanted stock numbers) flow numbers with stock intake are in column on right. This intake as is would not go on any engine of mine. 5-8 cfm maybe if I was in a hurry but hopefully it comes around better after a gasket match and some TLC grinding work. I’m ready to bolt his stock oldschool Torquer on it but before I remove the Speedmaster intake I want to try to sneak my flex camera in to check alignment but battery needs charged so that’s for tomorrow.
 
If you look at the .600 lift number you can see it took a very slight dip then recover. Most don’t recover like that. Scoot across and look at the same .600 number with the intake on. It slowed the air a slight amount and cured that. You can’t give up 40cfm because of an intake.
 
View attachment 1715655297 View attachment 1715655298 Ok guys not a lot of info tonight but some good info. Column on the left is stock out of the box head with stock out of the box Speedmaster valves. I checked last years numbers and at different lifts some are better some are worse. Last years head had a stock new Edelbrock exhaust valve and a used 2.02 Edelbrock valve that I had put a 30 degree backcut on the intake valve. I took a picture of the post were one of our members said being stock it may not like that backcut. Well it didn’t as last years heads numbers were much jumpier and not as high. This head in my eyes stock would make some very nice horsepower with a .500-.600 lift cam. Would a better valve job help? I’m betting yes but I’m not going to pull it off, do a valve job only, and flow test it again. To much waisted time. Ok then I bolted the stock Speedmaster intake on and did another test. Thankfully it was one of the better ports on the intake as it’s got a couple buggered up posts casting wise (easy fix but I wanted stock numbers) flow numbers with stock intake are in column on right. This intake as is would not go on any engine of mine. 5-8 cfm maybe if I was in a hurry but hopefully it comes around better after a gasket match and some TLC grinding work. I’m ready to bolt his stock oldschool Torquer on it but before I remove the Speedmaster intake I want to try to sneak my flex camera in to check alignment but battery needs charged so that’s for tomorrow.
Ootb that intake is a pos.
Many people owe you for showing that.lol
An ld340 does better.
 
If you look at the .600 lift number you can see it took a very slight dip then recover. Most don’t recover like that. Scoot across and look at the same .600 number with the intake on. It slowed the air a slight amount and cured that. You can’t give up 40cfm because of an intake.
And after you do your work on the intake it will still hold on better @lift.:thumbsup:
 
Ootb that intake is a pos.
Many people owe you for showing that.lol
An ld340 does better.


When I test flowed my buddies LD340
I was pleasantly surprised and after a quick touch up it was even nicer. Was it anywhere near Victor340 territory, heck no but it has its place. We shall see if I can help it out any.
 
When I test flowed my buddies LD340
I was pleasantly surprised and after a quick touch up it was even nicer. Was it anywhere near Victor340 territory, heck no but it has its place. We shall see if I can help it out any.
I really like the vic340.
I had a set of heads that went 274 and ootb and with a ootb vic bolted on did around 246-252 peak.. i did a shallow gasket match, very mild plenum plenum to roof blend and it was only 4 cfm off afterward.
 
THose stock numbers are just what speedmaster sent to me

hello we only have the flow numbers for the as cast head:

Intake

Exhaust

Valve Opening CFM
Valve Opening CFM

0.050 29
0.050 25.2

0.100 62
0.100 49

0.200 125
0.200 103

0.300 178
0.300 139

0.400 221
0.400 157

0.500 236
0.500
 
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