Srt-68 Barracuda

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Did my cowl a week or so ago. So much work. But worth getting it done right. Nice work bro. Glad I get to see some body work pics this time around.
 
O M G! I just sat here and read the ENTIRE thread. My brain is mush. DAMN great work and 5 stars on the thread detail.

**MY HERO**

Later,
Bruce B.
 
I always wanted to get rid of the vinyl on my car because I do not like how white vinyl gets so dirty. But why do so many people not like it? I have recently been thinking of keeping the vinyl since nobody else does
 
Finally. Now onto blocking all of this and finding all the junk. Should'nt be too hateful, as this car was fairly straight to begin with.

Family is out of town for the weekend, so guess what? Back-to-back 20 hour days. I will have kicked this thing's *** by Monday morning.

It would be nice if someone reading this would bring me something to eat.....

etching primer done 001 (Small).jpg


etching primer done 002 (Small).jpg
 
any reason you prefer etch primer over using epoxy? just curious i know its a huge debate between old school and newer school.
 
I use etch primer because that's what it does. It etches the steel so that it will hold onto whatever you put over it. It's expensive.

Urethane (poly) primer will come next, after initial blocking. 2 wet coats of that. It's not cheap either. You can spend a hell of a lot less on primer, and that's what most body shops use on their production jobs. Who cares if it's junk if it's good enough for Geico.

Sparing expense on primer is one of the dumbest thing you can do at this point.
 
Going the poly primer as well. So awesome fills the 80 grit scratches and sands really easy. I love the stuff makes life so much easier.

Just heard more bad than good about etch these days from a paint chemist. His email "Acid etch is a non catalyzed product and is nothing more than a lacquer product with the reducer containing a small amount of acid for etching.

The above statement should say it all but if it does not here are the potential problems.

It is very easy for the acid to get trapped either in metal pits or where ever there is an over lap as this product is not made to fill or be applied thick. Any time you have acid that traps or does not dry you will have loss of adhesion.

Next problem and a more serious problem is, if you spray a panel and let it set for a week or a year you can take a good grade lacquer thinner and wipe it off as like lacquer it never dries.
Now if thinner will wipe it off, what will urethane reducers do to it?

In the past what has happened is someone will spray 2K primer over the acid etch and any spot that gets too wet the urethane reducers in the 2K will melt those spots.
You will not know it as the primer will dry just fine.
However now you have air and solvent from the melted acid etch setting against the metal and it will start the rusting process. As the rusting process starts forming a gas you will see baby pinhead bubbles show up and as it gets worse bubbles the size of dimes can appear.
I have seen bubbles show up a week after the car was painted and I have seen them show up years down the road.

It’s the same risk as using lacquer primer, the car may show problems right away or it may be fine for years. You just don’t know.

In today’s market, most restorers or Rod builders do not use it as they have all been burnt
In the past. Where it is used today is in high volume collision shops as they cannot afford to wait an hour for epoxy to dry and the acid etch is ready to prime in around five minutes. It’s a pretty safe bet as most of these type repairs the customer is not going to keep the car longer than another 2-3 years.

How to tell if it’s acid etch causing the problem:
Take a razor blade and cut the top of the bubble, you will see rusty solvent and if you blow on it, it will go to bare rusty metal."

Food for thought
 
Thanks for the advice--that's what this forum is all about. Maybe I'll try something different next time--a little late on this one.

I personally have not experienced the problems that can occur etching, as I'm sure they do. Maybe some folk think using an etcher relieves them of being thorough--I don't know.

Here's a pic I just took of one I painted in the driveway in 1992--after etching and using Featherfill. It has held up well.

lemans buffed 002 (Small).jpg


lemans buffed 004 (Small).jpg
 
Well boys and girls, we kicked that Fish's *** today. Between the two of us we worked our way thru about 10 hours of blocking, each. We even managed to play three rounds of Frisbee Golf too!

We'll be back at it 'round 8am tomarrow :thumbup:







now, it's time for a cold one
 
5.7Dart said:
Amen, Brother!

Not quite lazer-straight, but close. By the end of the day Sunday it should be near perfect.
Click to expand...

dont know bout that.. the way I see this project, I'd be happy if a couple of folks like it.

By the way.. does my race challange still stand?
 
I can tell you are obviously thorough. Looking forward to seeing some color. Puke Green was it? LOL
 
c7-340 said:
ps: Daves66valiant..

that avatar just kills me
Click to expand...

LOL. Little photochop a member did for me. Wanted to see how the 17" Foose Nitrous wheels looked on the car. Actual car should look wayyyyy better. :-D
 
Nap over......what? Did I hear a cuss word?

Puke green?......c'mon.

It looks like there's two of you now.....per the post anyway....can you deux put the mellons together and get another color combo?

Go to Mexihome deportation and look at the Disnot color wheels.....

Puke green.......seriously:toothy10:

I mean c'mon.:-D

pinto.jpg
 
MOMOPARMAN; What--yer Dad beat you with a green belt half yer life?

Sublime reaches too deep into your subliminal.

I like the Sublime because it's obnoxious to some, outrageous to some, and just plain ugly to others. Kinda like me.

Show me a painted car in the color you want it to be and I'll entertain it. I really would like to stick with something MOPAR.
 
momoparman said:
It looks like there's two of you now.....per the post anyway....can you deux put the mellons together and get another color combo?
Click to expand...


I've recomended a different combo, but he wants the green. Maybe if was paying for the car, my opinion might count.
 
Cop out.......paint color is paint color....the paint pretty much costs the same within a few bucks as long as you don't get to crazy. 3 stage paint or 2?

I did not say Glasurit.

If it helps you...pick out some more colors within your budget and let us pick for you.8)

It's not that I don't like puke green.....just so many other colors out there.

It is your car though......sorry I'm such a pain......it's just that orange and puke green really clash.=P~

Try something that will compliment the Dart.:spiderma:
 
Tor-red
Any yellow especially pale
Burnt orange like the new Calibers.
Black....
White.
Silver or Champagne.
Blue....dark B7 (Bronco's)
Omaha Orange 99
Ruby or New Inferno Red.
Metallic green like Chip Fools Hemisphere car.
clear over primer.
 
Here you go.....see.

Already been done a few dozen times.....not that that's bad.....just boring.:glasses9::glasses9::glasses9:

It's your car so I will say no more......suprise us.:profilel:

3117375182_bde983d90c.jpg
 
How about the 2008 Viper color, Snakeskin Green?
 
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