SRT8CUDA Build

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I changed the start wiring from the ignition switch to a pushbutton in the console ashtray. When the ignition switch is on, the led lights up on the PB and when pressed it sends 12V to the stock starter relay on the inner fender. It is a Billet Button 22mm SW47B.
 

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Awesome! I was planning to use the same button on mine. Wish I could figure out how to make it so it only lights up when key is on and engine ISNT running then go dark when engine is running.
 
72BBSwinger said:
Awesome! I was planning to use the same button on mine. Wish I could figure out how to make it so it only lights up when key is on and engine ISNT running then go dark when engine is running.
Click to expand...

If I were going to do that, I'd connect a relay to an oil pressure switch. When oil pressure increased, it would energize the relay and open the circuit to the push button.
 
I copied this glove box mounting design from Joeboy since it looked like a good idea. The mounting plate is approx. 16"x9". It cant be any longer or it will hit the passenger side dash vent. Like Joe, I wanted to be able to easily see the status lights on the XFI and XIM boxes.I plan to bring the cables in from the back, through the cut-outs
 

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Just piping in to say thanks for the many and informative pics and the do and don't tips on this build. You have spent countless hours researching, let alone all the hours welding. Take a bow for a well thought out build.. and for not pulling out your hair on all the "not bolt on" parts you have encountered.
You have put together quite a car and we all know you are going to enjoy it immensely--even if it had went together smoothly. You make us proud to say "I'm a Mopar Man".
I sit here quite surprised that some of the best parts manufacturers, such as Wildwood, Powermaster, and Moser, have provided you inaccurate kits or low quality parts. It is sad this is the state of manufacturing now occurring in the US. You could expect such from Taiwanese or Italian parts/kits, but not US made parts.
Thanks for the info on FAST not being waterproof.
One question. From the picks of the mounted tires, it looks like your tires are about 8.5" wide. Does the 4 point rear suspension rod prohibit you from going much wider, say 10"? If so, I have to look for a different kit manufacturer.
Oh, since you WILL be drooling each time you take it out the first month, don't forget to bring a bibb with you. :tongue3:
 
Penfighter said:
Just piping in to say thanks for the many and informative pics and the do and don't tips on this build. You have spent countless hours researching, let alone all the hours welding. Take a bow for a well thought out build.. and for not pulling out your hair on all the "not bolt on" parts you have encountered.
You have put together quite a car and we all know you are going to enjoy it immensely--even if it had went together smoothly. You make us proud to say "I'm a Mopar Man".
I sit here quite surprised that some of the best parts manufacturers, such as Wildwood, Powermaster, and Moser, have provided you inaccurate kits or low quality parts. It is sad this is the state of manufacturing now occurring in the US. You could expect such from Taiwanese or Italian parts/kits, but not US made parts.
Thanks for the info on FAST not being waterproof.
One question. From the picks of the mounted tires, it looks like your tires are about 8.5" wide. Does the 4 point rear suspension rod prohibit you from going much wider, say 10"? If so, I have to look for a different kit manufacturer.
Oh, since you WILL be drooling each time you take it out the first month, don't forget to bring a bibb with you. :tongue3:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback - much appreciated. I agree - I was disappointed in the quality of the US made parts. Some companies definitely need more focus on quality.

The 235/50-R17 tires have a 'section width" of about 9.7" with a "tread width" of 7.7" according to the Bridgestone specs. The section width is the critical dimension for clearance.
With my rims - that have a 5.72" backspacing and Moser rear axle setup, there is about 7/8" clearance to the strut rod and about 1-1/8"" clearance to the inner wheelwell.(see photo) The outer clearance at the quarter panel wheelwell lip is 1-1/2".

You can definitely fit wider tires in there without hitting the strut rod, especially if you had a rim with a bit less backspacing to move the tire outwards a bit. For example a 245/50-R17 tire has a 10" section width and a 8.2" tread spec which would fit OK. I went conservative on my tire size because I wasn't sure how well they would fit.
These rear tires may not last very long one I have "ignition sequence start" and then I can get wider ones:cheers:

Hope that helps - if not, let me know if you have more questions.
Jim
 

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Not much progress these days, but did make a plate to mount the twin speakers.
 

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Will use these for 2 additional speakers
 

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I'm cutting off all the original terminals on the bulkhead connector and putting on new ones (crimping and soldering) to ensure a good connection.
 

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As usual, great work. Its nice when the interior and wiring start coming together. You gotta be gettin close. I don't know how I missed your FAST mounting post, but glad I could inspire, good call on the cutouts for wiring, wish I woulda thought of that...
 
joeboy said:
As usual, great work. Its nice when the interior and wiring start coming together. You gotta be gettin close. I don't know how I missed your FAST mounting post, but glad I could inspire, good call on the cutouts for wiring, wish I woulda thought of that...
Click to expand...

Thanks

That is the great thing about this site - lots of great ideas to copy- yours included!

Not sure if I'm "close" yet - but will be a giant step forward when I get the dash rewired and installed.
Happy New Year
Jim
 
Had the instrument panel restored by Instrument Specialties some time ago and now getting it ready to install in the dash. Really pleased with the quality of the restoration, but certainly not inexpensive!!!
 

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This has got to be one of the very best G3 swap threads out there. Thanks for making it so informative on so many levels. I'm glad I stickied it when I was a mod... Lol. ;)

Please keep it up.
 
I was wondering where you got that sexy looking vacuum operated heater close off valve on your passenger inner fender? I need one just like it.

Thanks

Mike
 
rednesss said:
I was wondering where you got that sexy looking vacuum operated heater close off valve on your passenger inner fender? I need one just like it.

Thanks

Mike
Click to expand...
That is the stock control valve that came on this car - since it had factory A/C.
 
OK thanks, my car was also a factory AC car but someone removed it prior to me owning it. Was just wondering if that was an aftermarket valve. Can't really find an exact replica of that.

Thanks though.
 
Finally got the dash wiring finished. Used LEDS from www.superbrightleds.com for all the dash and interior lighting.

Had to move a few components to fit the panel for the FAST ECU's
 

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Got dash installed, powered it up for the first time and checked all electrical circuits.:cheers: Next step is to power up the FAST XFI and XIM boxes and check them out.
 

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Powered up the FAST fuel injection computer (XFI) and the ignition computer (XIM) and am able to communicate with them OK via my laptop. Also connected the e-Dash unit which I can mount on the top of the console if I want to observe the operation of the system while driving. (photos of the 3 main screens below)
Next steps are to set up all the initial parameters in the FAST system. I also have to finish the under-hood wiring and relay installation and prime the oil system before it is ready to start. Getting closerO:)
 

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I decided to add a cruise control to the Cuda (Dakota Digital), so I had to make a new throttle cable bracket. I had to make it longer to accommodate the throttle cable and the cruise cable. I used a Mopar throttle stud and threaded it into the FAST throttle body throttle cam.
 

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I primed the oil system and the oil pump and cranked the Hemi over for the first time:cheers:
(No spark plugs in the engine at this point.) Had good oil pressure right away.
Looked like all the right status lights on the FAST boxes as it was cranking.
Next steps will be going through all the calibrations on the FAST boxes with the C-Com XFI 2.05 software.

Dennis at Roosters Rod Shop https://www.facebook.com/pages/Roosters-Rod-Shop/189139764429522 sent me an initial tune to load into the FAST boxes. Dennis is a real craftsman (look up some of his SEMA vehicles) and has done several of these Hemi transplants. (I bought my 2010 production-line Hemi through him and one of his Mopar contacts.)
 
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