SRT8CUDA Build

-
I now have a lot of respect for the assembly line workers in 1969. It probably took them less that 60 sec to install the QP glass and regulator and guides etc and took me a week to put one in!!!
After cleaning all the parts and test fitting, I then found I could not follow the Service manual installation instructions, because of some simple clips.
I got repro clips that hold the rollers in place and you are supposed to simply reach around behind the roller and snap them on - after fitting all the linkages together. Only problem is the repro clips are very strong and the only way to get them on is on the bench.
Then you have to figure out how to insert the rollers in the correct slots with the glass and regulator and guides in the door. It can be done, but was a puzzle for a while!!
I put all the adjustments back as the factory had them, but they were away off from what they should be.
Only took me a day to install the other QP glass!!

View attachment IMG_3357_1280x719.jpg

View attachment IMG_3358_1280x719.jpg

View attachment IMG_3369_1280x719.jpg
 
Excellent point Real Wing,

I just read an article in I believe Motor Trend where one of the authors spent the day on the assembly line at a Honda plant. The worker had I believe 100 odd seconds to complete several tasks. Even with much instruction, watching, and help the author was unable to complete the task in the time allotted.

While working on an assembly line might be a "low skill" job. It is certainly not a no skill job, and those guys and gals put in the hours day in and day out. I know that I couldn't thirty years on the line. I believe they clearly deserve a middle class wage.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
I'm ready to re-install the convertible top, but I'm not sure if there is supposed to be any sealer between the back of the tacking strip and where it bolts to the body. Or do you leave it unsealed so that rainwater can drain into the drain trough all the way around the whole mounting surface??????
Thx
Jim

View attachment IMG_3375_1280x719.jpg

View attachment IMG_3376_1280x719.jpg
 
Unsealed. Usually there will be a sealer on the bolts holding to tack strip on. Looking good so far.
 
ThanksO:)O:)

Hope you can answer another convertible question:
Is this the correct orientation for the trim clips around the dutchman panel? This is how I found them during disassembly.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7108.jpg
    27.6 KB · Views: 847
  • IMG_7108c.JPG
    19.9 KB · Views: 854
When stripping my 67 FB I had trouble just removing the rear side window guts. Dread the day when I have to reinstall them. Good to here others find this difficult.
 
I've removed / installed plenty of windows in my day and I too found removing the rear windows in my ( '69 ) fastback was difficult. I'm not looking forward to reinstalling them with new paint on the car...


When stripping my 67 FB I had trouble just removing the rear side window guts. Dread the day when I have to reinstall them. Good to here others find this difficult.
 
ThanksO:)O:)

Hope you can answer another convertible question:
Is this the correct orientation for the trim clips around the dutchman panel? This is how I found them during disassembly.

Mine has been apart for so long I do not remember. I will check and see if i have any pics later today
 
I'm doing the mod that others have done to eliminate the "chrome" lockstrip along the lower edge of the windshield.
I'm using a hardtop windshield gasket and using a lower S/S trim strip from the hardtop/fastback cars. This involves cutting off ~1" from each end of the hardtop trim strip and doing a little grinding on the ends.
Then you install the trim clips that are used on the hardtop along the lower edge. All the screw holes were punched along the bottom - except for the 2 outer ones. On my car, they didn't seem to be there, but maybe they were covered by the body shop. (These 2 outer trim clips are a little narrower than the others.) The 2 outer clips are p/n 6002615 and the rest are 6002263.

View attachment IMG_3370_1280x719.jpg

View attachment IMG_3374_1280x719.jpg

View attachment IMG_3378_1280x719.jpg

View attachment IMG_3379_1280x719.jpg

View attachment IMG_3377_1280x719.jpg
 
I'm trying to figure out what type of seals (or sealant) were originally used under the:
1. A Pillar S/S trim pieces and 2
2. Under the S/S trim piece along the top of the windshield.

Since my car has been apart at least 2 times before I got it, I don't know how it is really supposed to go back together!!

First a few photos of what the top of the windshield frame looked like when I took it apart (Yellow was the cars original color) The pieces of foam look to me to be non original.
However the closeups seem to indicate some kind of original factory foam sealant??

Then I have this long rubber strip that came in the Legendary weatherstrip kit. It looks like it should go under the top S/S trim piece according to the service manual, but not sure if it is an A body part or goes on the B Body?

There must be some kind of sealant under this strip, otherwise the rain will run under it and into the car.
Hope there are some "vert experts" watching!!!
Thx
Jim
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7132.jpg
    40.5 KB · Views: 769
  • IMG_7140.jpg
    48.1 KB · Views: 757
  • IMG_7141.jpg
    44.5 KB · Views: 766
  • IMG_3384_1280x719.jpg
    29.7 KB · Views: 768
  • IMG_3383_1280x719.jpg
    69.2 KB · Views: 786
  • IMG_3382_1280x719.jpg
    14.9 KB · Views: 742
Then I need to know what seal/sealant goes under the side A Pillar S/S mouldings. One piece had a foam strip under it, but I doubt it is original.
The disassembly photos seem to show some kind of foam factory sealant having been applied along the A pillar post.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7142.jpg
    35.6 KB · Views: 698
  • IMG_7139.jpg
    29.4 KB · Views: 726
  • IMG_7128.jpg
    35 KB · Views: 724
Been a while since I stopped in and you are continuing beautiful work and documentation! Im doing the same mod to my ragtop. Great thread Jim
 
After seeing the photo of the original top to dutchman panel seal, I recalled seeing a roll of white foam seal strip in one of my many parts boxes. Low and behold it was the foam strip for this location!!
IT is Detroit Muscle Technologies p/n AXX6769VK01.

Now installed and the top is bolted in place,:cheers:

View attachment IMG_3397_1280x719.jpg

View attachment IMG_3398_1280x719.jpg

View attachment IMG_3399_1280x719.jpg

View attachment IMG_3401_1280x719 crop.jpg

View attachment IMG_3418_1280x719.jpg
 
I made e-mail contact with Jim Fillmore at DMT about the foam seal across the top of the windshield and hooked him up with Carl who posted the original photos of this seal. Jim wanted the seal so they could reproduce it and make it available to everyone and Carl is going to send it to him.
DMT has the correct seal material, so I asked him to let me know the cost and to send to me.
Just got an e-mail to say it is sent and no chargeO:)O:)
That is excellence in Customer service.

I had always recommended DMT for seal - and now they are highly recommended!!!

Jim
 
The metal bracket that holds the front weatherstrip seal in place was rusted in spots and needed some repair. Then after I got it installed, I found it sealed OK at the 2 corners but did not seal tightly against the trim all the way across. Not sure if the header on the top was warped or what was wrong. Solved the issue by gluing a narrow strip of weatherstrip across the top front edge of the seal. And seems to fit OK now.

View attachment IMG_3388m.jpg

View attachment IMG_3420.jpg

View attachment IMG_3473.jpg

View attachment IMG_3471m.jpg

View attachment IMG_3476.jpg
 
I thought I could just clean up all the metal linkages etc on the top, but they still looked rough. Ended up painting it all - without disassembly. Took lots of masking tape and plastic
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3423.jpg
    28.7 KB · Views: 525
Got the hydraulic system back together today with an overhauled pump, new hoses and new cylinders. I used Hydro-E-Lectric to overhaul my original pump and supply the new parts.
Filled with ATF and bled all the air out of the system.
I installed up/down relays to take power direct from the battery instead of through the firewall connector.
Works great:cheers:

View attachment IMG_3478.jpg
 
Coming together nicely. A guy that works for me spent 20 years doing convertible top and sunroof installs and had said in the past that it is easy to over tighten a top and warp it a bit. That may have been what happened to yours at one time or another.
 
Coming together nicely. A guy that works for me spent 20 years doing convertible top and sunroof installs and had said in the past that it is easy to over tighten a top and warp it a bit. That may have been what happened to yours at one time or another.

Probably what happened. I thought of trying to straighten it, but thought I might cause more damage - especially with the fabric installed.
Jim
 
I ordered a catch can from Billet Technologies before Xmas when they had a 20% discount offer. It arrived this week and got it installed. It also arrived with a credit card bill where I was charged 1.47 CDN exchange:sad9: The CC companies love deals like this since the official CDN dollar is ~70 USD. I'm glad I don't need any more parts from the US.

View attachment IMG_3498.jpg

View attachment IMG_3501.jpg
 
Looks good. I just sent DMT those gaskets to make and also sent him the rubber wedges that fit in the corners of the top of the windshield header stainless. He is going to try and make those also.
 
Looks good. I just sent DMT those gaskets to make and also sent him the rubber wedges that fit in the corners of the top of the windshield header stainless. He is going to try and make those also.

Thanks Carl
Where do these rubber wedges go? What do they look like?
Jim
 
They go in the corners of the stainless trim the goes along the top of the windshield. I will email you some pics because I suck at trying to upload photos from my phone
 
-
Back
Top