Hung the doors today with the help of my son. Now comes the long slow process to install all the guts.
SRT8CUDA Build
- Thread starter RealWing
- Start date
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Hellcat Cuda
Well-Known Member
I think I would hang the fenders, bumpers, install windshield and take her for a few rides. Nothing like experiencing what you've built a little to give you some extra motivation for all the other assembly it still needs.
Southern Ontario doesn't have quite the same weather as California. There is a couple of feet of snow on the ground!!! I've had it up on blocks and run it through the gears up to 60-70 mph, so I know everything works OK - just didn't feel the wind in my face!!!
I'll have it done by spring and get it out on the road.O
toplscuda
Well-Known Member
Southern Ontario doesn't have quite the same weather as California. There is a couple of feet of snow on the ground!!! I've had it up on blocks and run it through the gears up to 60-70 mph, so I know everything works OK - just didn't feel the wind in my face!!!
I'll have it done by spring and get it out on the road.O
Next time remember the fan in front
It is looking really good.
Hellcat Cuda
Well-Known Member
Good point, hahaha! Didn't think about that. At least you're able to start it and hear it roar when you need to.
NYFDFF
New Member
Great looking build! Do you have the part number for the Wizard rad assembly?
1640-116T
This is the basic 26" wide rad that I ordered, but then had it modified to move the outlet to the passenger side and reduce the overall height a bit
Jim
Yellowfin
Creator/Owner diyhemi.com
This build thread has been such a big help Would you mind if I link it on my website and use some pictures of yours?
I am building a GEN III Hemi swap database website and this is just a huge wealth of knowledge. It would be great to share!
I am building a GEN III Hemi swap database website and this is just a huge wealth of knowledge. It would be great to share!
No problem at all. I learned a lot from others on this site and wanted to give something back.
Jim
Have spent many days getting all the windows aligned with the top. Plus trying to figure out all the adjustments on the top. Man, this is complicated!!
I then hung both front fenders and started to get all the gaps aligned. Then found I had to pull in the front of the pass door a bit to get a good alignment between the fender and the hood.
This should be pretty straightforward - just loosen the hinge bolts on the door and push it in a bit, but it wouldn't move!! Then I saw that the edge of the hinge was hitting the inside of the door. (Which means it was never right from the factory)
Off comes the hinge to do some grinding. I have to reassemble everything so hope this will work out OK.
Of course this means re-aligning the pass door window with the convertible top seal!!!
I then hung both front fenders and started to get all the gaps aligned. Then found I had to pull in the front of the pass door a bit to get a good alignment between the fender and the hood.
This should be pretty straightforward - just loosen the hinge bolts on the door and push it in a bit, but it wouldn't move!! Then I saw that the edge of the hinge was hitting the inside of the door. (Which means it was never right from the factory)
Off comes the hinge to do some grinding. I have to reassemble everything so hope this will work out OK.
Of course this means re-aligning the pass door window with the convertible top seal!!!
philcollins
Well-Known Member
Nice
can you make a spacer for the post hinge, then you can move door in and out
Adding a shim would move the door out ok, but I had to move the door inwards. Grinding the edge of the hinge worked OK and allowed me to move the door inwards. Hood gaps now look good. Got the door glass realigned with the convertible top seal so I'm moving forward again:cheers:
Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
Getting everything to line up is a real challenge. I've seen a lot of cars with crappy body gaps, you'll be glad you took the time to get it right.
Keep up the good work,
Regards
Joe Dokes
Keep up the good work,
Regards
Joe Dokes
Thanks Joe. I agree, some cars just look like they were thrown together with really bad body gaps. On the other hand, some cars are over restored and have perfect gaps, which didn't happen on the '60's and '70's and probably '80's assembly lines!!
Jim
Sprayed the front of the fender area (that will show through the grill) using SEM Trim Black paint.
Passenger splash shield installed. Fender tab and bolt blacked out like was done by the factory so that the blue coloured tab is not visible when looking at the vehicle.
Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
Good job spraying the inside of the grill. Too many people leave it the body color which simply doesn't look right.
As for "over restored" I think that's a term people use who have way too much time on their hands to criticize others. I know factory cars came with misaligned panels and orange peel, I'd never criticize a car that had good gaps and no orange peel.
I was at Spring Fling last year and saw what appeared to be a fairly stock 68-69 Charger with a copper color paint job. The body must have been blocked twenty times, it was SOOOOOOOOO straight, and the paint was polished perfectly. It looked like you could swim in the paint. I ain't NEVER gonna criticize a car like that for being "over-restored."
From the looks of your car, it looks like you spent a lot of effort to get the panels ultra straight, and I bet the paint looks spectacular in person.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
As for "over restored" I think that's a term people use who have way too much time on their hands to criticize others. I know factory cars came with misaligned panels and orange peel, I'd never criticize a car that had good gaps and no orange peel.
I was at Spring Fling last year and saw what appeared to be a fairly stock 68-69 Charger with a copper color paint job. The body must have been blocked twenty times, it was SOOOOOOOOO straight, and the paint was polished perfectly. It looked like you could swim in the paint. I ain't NEVER gonna criticize a car like that for being "over-restored."
From the looks of your car, it looks like you spent a lot of effort to get the panels ultra straight, and I bet the paint looks spectacular in person.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
My 1972 Duster did not have a blacked out tab. Did this practice end in the 1970's? I might do it anyway... It would improve the look.
I used some more Eastwood acoustic pieces to cover the holes in the doors before adding the plastic rain shield and the interior trim.
Installed the trunk seal today. Used Steele Rubber Products seal since I think this is the only one that is the correct shape and is soft enough. According to some other posts I saw, other seals are harder and they have not been able to close the trunk properly. I'll know for sure when I istall the lid on the weekend.
joeboy
Well-Known Member
Lookin Good! Such great attention to detail. It's cool to see the progress; Come On Warm Weather!!!
Joe
Joe
Penfighter
Long Time Dodge Boy
Another one of your posts that make me say "shoulda, coulda, woulda done that" to the restos I have done before. You and your car are just a classy act.
The door looks so good if it was my car I would have to sit in the car just to check out that door!
Well, you are almost done, and I think you just got your last snow of the season too. :blob:
Thanks
Not sure about the last snow however!!! But I'm sure you don't really care - being in Florida!!!
Jim
Installed the trunk lid on the weekend. It fits and seals OK. The Steele seal worked great.
I had initially bought a trunk seal from Layson's, but then I heard about problems with seals that are too hard, so I bought one from Steele. The Layson's seal (not sure who he bought it from) is definitely stiffer foam, so I would not recommend it to others..
I had initially bought a trunk seal from Layson's, but then I heard about problems with seals that are too hard, so I bought one from Steele. The Layson's seal (not sure who he bought it from) is definitely stiffer foam, so I would not recommend it to others..
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