SRT8CUDA Build

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The adjuster backing off was my first thought, but when I got under the car it had not moved. Thus it seems something going wrong with my clutch disk The clutch seems to work OK but I went from abt 3/4" clutch pedal free play to 2" in 1700 miles. Seemed very likely I would not make it to CA and back home. Was travelling with a Route 66 group so the organizer made a couple of calls and within 10 min someone drove into the hotel lot and offered his garage for secure storage!! The Cuda will be safe but probably not happy it is in the same garage as a couple of Chevy's!!
Since we are with a great bunch of car guys and ladies, we rented a car and decided to keep going. Will drive back to Lebanon MO and pick up the Cuda and drive back home. I;m pretty sure it will make it OK.
jim
 
toplscuda said:
I would be afraid to leave it anywhere. I do have a cousin that is a big mopar guy that lives in Branson that may be able to lend a hand if needed.
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I agree. Leaving it in the open would guarantee gone in 60 seconds!! Last night there was someone suspicious driving around at then hotel we stayed at. It is safely stored where no one will find it. The guy who is storing it even put it up on his 4 post hoist so nothing can harm it!!
Thx for the offer of help. Much appreciated.
Jim
 
Hey Jim how did the trip turn out? Ever find out what was up with the clutch?
 
Still in CA sightseeing. Travelling Hwy1 was part of my bucket list plan. Will not be home for a couple of weeks yet.
 
Had more problems with the car after picking it up in Lebanon MO!!!
SRT8CUDA Stranded in Normal IL

Back home this afternoon after travelling 7215 miles (11611 Km) , 29 days - of which we drove for 26 days!!! (5082 miles in the rental and 2133 in the Cuda)

Lots of excitement and challenges along the way, but overall Route 66 was an awesome trip. Don’t want any restaurant food or my hands on a steering wheel for a while!!
One of these days I'll get at the clutch problem!!!
 
Got the car on the hoist to look at the clutch. Pulled the inspection cover and the clutch disk looks OK. It is about 0.300" thick and according to McLeod a new one is 0.305-0.325" thick.
However, in thinking about the reason for increasing clutch pedal free play - if the disk was wearing prematurely, then the clutch pedal free play would be decreasing. (had to think about that!!!)
So it looks like the problem is in the hydraulic clutch master or slave cylinder somewhere. Will do more troubleshooting first, but may have to remove and disassemble the slave/master to see what I can find.
 
Making progress. Found that the slave cylinder was leaking some fluid plus the spring that pulls the clutch fork rod back was too weak. Removed and disassembled the slave and found that the o-ring that seals the piston rod shaft had been assembled incorrectly into the groove in the end of the piston. It wasn't fully seated in the groove!!! Will have to see if I can get a seal kit from CNC.

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Does anyone know of a "pull" type slave that has a better design shaft seal than this o-ring?
 
Got an overhaul kit from CNC for the slave cylinder and used Red Rubber Grease to reassemble. Bled the cylinder and all seems OK for now but will need to wait until spring to take it for a run. (There is all this white stuff blowing around outside!!)

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RealWing said:
Got an overhaul kit from CNC for the slave cylinder and used Red Rubber Grease to reassemble. Bled the cylinder and all seems OK for now but will need to wait until spring to take it for a run. (There is all this white stuff blowing around outside!!)

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Glad you got it taken care of. As for the white stuff, it is that time of year
 
Nothing a set of snow tires wouldn’t take care of. :lol:
Glad you got it rebuilt. Hope it hold up well for you.
 
I'm all for you continuing with your original part that you'd selected for the system. Hopefully it was a careless assembly worker who pinched the o ring or didn't install enough assembly lube. Too bad you have to wait to get out and enjoy it again. Maybe there will be some good, dry days when you can get it out. If the temps are still cold, boy do these Gen3s respond to cold IATs !
 
Yes, they really like cold intake temps. I'm really glad I made an air box to feed the engine with cool air. The IAT is usually 100 F lower than underhood temps!!!
 
If it acts up again you should go to your local bearing supplier and look for a "quad-ring" that will fit in place of the o-ring.
 
Jim, Did you have to remove the dipstick plug in the block or did your engine have the truck dipstick?
Did you tap it out from the inside?
Also, your timing cover and water pump... did you paint or clear coat them?
Hard to tell but it looks like you painted yours.
Wondering what the best way to preserve the finish.
My timing cover will need some cleaning and prep to look as nice as yours
I know that March includes a new water pump so I will want them both to match.
Thanks!

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'Cuda_ragtop said:
Jim, Did you have to remove the dipstick plug in the block or did your engine have the truck dipstick?
Did you tap it out from the inside?
Also, your timing cover and water pump... did you paint or clear coat them?
Hard to tell but it looks like you painted yours.
Wondering what the best way to preserve the finish.
My timing cover will need some cleaning and prep to look as nice as yours
I know that March includes a new water pump so I will want them both to match.
Thanks!

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My block had the plug and I knocked it out from inside the pan. I just left the TC and WP natural, but your idea of clear coating or painting sounds like a good approach. Hadn't thought of that at the time. I've used Eastwood Aluma Blast paint (use a self etching primer first). or Eastwood Diamond Clear for Bare Metal.
Jim
 
Jim,

Dot sure if you ever got back to your replacement tail light upgrade but I have run across these "Plasma" LED 1157 Bulb replacements sold by West Coast Classic Cougar. They obviously are not just for Ford products and seem to be a quality unit with high lumens. They also offer a discount for larger quantities if you need to do several vehicles. Here's the link:

Plasma LED - RED - Two Pack Replacement 1157 Bulbs - New ~ 1967 -1973 Mercury Cougar / 1967 - 1973 Ford Mustang

Please let me know what you think! I love your 'cude build also! Great work!
 
The specified light output from these LED's are: Brightness: 90 lumens (low), 200 lumens (high) compared to a standard 1157 which outputs about 38 (low) and 402 (high). So these LED's have a brighter running light but less than half the output of a standard 1157 for brakes and turn signals. Thus I would not use them because I would want very bright brake/turn signal lighting.
I used Honda lamps (34906-SL0-A01) that have a 38/540 lumen output and are much better than the std 1157's. I've yet to find a LED that can better that output.
Jim

PS Thanks for the complement on the build.
 
Congrats Jim. Seeing it in person I can say it definitely lives up to the Eye Candy designation.
 
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