SRT8CUDA Build

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Doing a great job on this. It is comming together nicely. Actually inspired me to get off my rear and do some on mine again
 
Riddler said:
I really wish I knew how to do this runout check. I'm prolly gonna have to find someone loclly here to help me do mine with the quicktime bellhousing.

Keep up the great work.

Oh any pictures of the alternator area where it hits the frame rail?

Riddler
Click to expand...
I'm using an accessory drive kit from March Performance that mounts the alternator and AC compressor up high - so frame rail contact is not an issue. http://marchperf.com/styletrack_hemi.html
The basic Hemi kit is p/n 40710 that has a Sanden7176 AC compressor, a chrome GM 105 amp alternator (It pains me to have it on a Mopar!!) and a GM PS pump (more pain) and a new water pump.
The other optional parts I got are:
PS remote Reservoir 450
PS line kit for Mustang II rack P3211
PS pressure reduction kit P306
Chrome upgrade for PS pump P318
AC chrome manifold 418-06
Alternator upgrade from 105 to 140 amp P574
The quality of this kit is first class. The finish on the parts is outstanding.

After I bought the kit, I found there have been some reported failures of the water pump with this kit due to high load applied by the belt configuration. Dennis at Roosters Rod Shop (who has done several of these conversions) suggested driving the WP direct from the crank pulley and using a shorter belt to drive all the other accessories.
The belts to do this are:

Gates multi groove belt K060325 -water pump
Gates multi groove belt K060770 - accessories

The first photo shows the kit belt configuration and the 2nd photo shows the modified belt configuration

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The documentation and build are both outstanding! Great help for lotsa members, and a great read!! Thanks!
 
4spdragtop said:
The documentation and build are both outstanding! Great help for lotsa members, and a great read!! Thanks!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. I got a lot of great tips of this forum before I started - so I wanted to return some.
 
Since I want to run all the stock gauges, I needed a spot to install the stock water temp sensor. The top front of the water pump housing looked like the easiest spot.
The plug at the top front turned out to be a standard 1/4" NPT thread. I used a close coupled bushing to bush down to the stock 1/8" NPT sensor. I had to tap the bushing deeper so that it would clear the March bracket. but looks like it will work OK.

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Since I want to run all the stock gauges, I needed a spot to install the stock water temp sensor. The top front of the water pump housing looked like the easiest spot.
Click to expand...

I'm confused....Why didn't you just remove the existing temp switch and use your adapter bung with the old sensor in the original location?............... That's what I did
:)

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Rat Patrol said:
I'm confused....Why didn't you just remove the existing temp switch and use your adapter bung with the old sensor in the original location?............... That's what I did
:)
Click to expand...

Because the FAST Fuel Injection system needs the stock water temp sender as an input.
 
To install the pilot bearing in the back of the crank, you have to first remove a ring. We did this by tack welding a piece of pipe to the ring and welding a nut inside the pipe so we could screw in a slide hammer. It came our real easy.
There are 2 types of pilot bearing you can use. A roller bearing p/n 53009180AB (shown in photo below) or a sleeve type p/n 4338876

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I posted some info on this thread http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=218637

and have subsequently got more information.

TTI has been very prompt in getting back to me and confirmed that the 9523 PowerMaster starter will fit with the TTI6.1HCA 1-3/4" headers.
They sent the attached photos that show you do have to grind down a couple of spots on the block where the starter hits.
(The saga continues in the following posts)

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View attachment TTI 6 1 HCA - POWERMASTER 9523 ADJUSTABLE - 3.jpg
 
Notice in the first TTI supplied photo that the starter has 5 clockable positions and that it is positionned in the end one.
Then compare my new 9523 starter in the second photo - it only has 4 positions!!! Thus it cannot be rotated up enough to clear the header. It looks like Powermaster has changed the design since TTI did their clearance checks in 2010.
The photo of the 9523 starter on PowerMaster's web site still shows 5 clockable positions (3rd photo)
The 4th photo shows my starter rotated to the non-existent 5th position, and there is lots of clearance to the header.
I'm waiting to hear back from PowerMaster!!!

The bottom line is that this was not TTI's fault - the 9523 starter they recommended did clear the headers OK - when they checked in 2010.
Stay tuned!!

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How'd you go with your dipstick? Did you send it back to Milodon?

Mine arrived via priority mail last week - they shortened it around 3/4". Ill let you know how it fits on Sat...
 
Rat Patrol said:
How'd you go with your dipstick? Did you send it back to Milodon?

Mine arrived via priority mail last week - they shortened it around 3/4". Ill let you know how it fits on Sat...
Click to expand...

Have had no response from Milodon about the quality problems or the dipstick.
I'd certainly be interested in how yours looks. I'm going to try a different method of securing it - now that I have the headers.
 
Rat Patrol said:
Something else I'll need to check also.....
Click to expand...

I had initially thought that this transplant would be mostly a bolt-in - that was a stupid thought!!

Just got this back from PowerMaster:
"It would be our suspicion that there might be something a little different about the aftermarket flywheel. Chrysler used the same starter for 20+ years on small block and big block engines all with the same throw distance."

Will do more checks tomorrow with the original 6.1 L flexplate to see if the ring gear is in the same axial position as the McLeod flywheel or not.
 
I have a factory 6.1 flywheel off my crate motor you can have for postage costs - probably about $40 canadian from me to you.......IF you get stuck.
 
Jim, I feel for you guys. You're going through a lot of the research pains I went through about 2 years ago. A good, simple way to go with this is the flywheel for a RAM 2500 with Hemi and manual trans. The starter for the same application should work as well, if I remember correctly. I just HAD TO get fancy and want a SPEC dual disc clutch and flywheel for my car and for the Gen3, they only had one for the new Challengers. This opened a whole new can of worms for my build that I've since resolved. I'm going to downsize some pics and will post the evolution of my starter woes on my build thread. You'll like the clearances I have and that you can have too. Give me just a little while to post it all up and come visit Cuda SRT8 392 Gen3 Hemi
 
Real Wing - The modified dipstick ended up fitting a peach - the top bracket clips onto the valve cover stud.
 
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