SRT8CUDA Build

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oldschoolmuscle said:
love the build.


but this thread is making me think twice about doing a new hemi swap in my demon lol.
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Like Joe Dokes stated - don't be put off by all my issues. Everything can be fixed and that is the reason for all my detailed posts - to show how I addressed them. Look at other posts as well. For example - I decided to go with the FAST system, but there are lots of other alternatives and more surfacing all the time.I know I'm facing more challenges (eg clutch actuators coming up) and I'll let you know about them as well.
Jim
 
Gonna be sweet when you get it going! I have since converted to the SRT8 and super impressed with the 370" Beast, even in a 4500 pound brick!!
 
Holy Cow - This is almost like my build ..
6.1, passon, bill reilly stuff
ive been slacking waitin for 5 speed but you've answered a lot of my questions . awesome build !
But ive been makin smoke with other stuff -- Ill be lurkin and copying stuff !
 
Sogtx? said:
Holy Cow - This is almost like my build ..
6.1, passon, bill reilly stuff
ive been slacking waitin for 5 speed but you've answered a lot of my questions . awesome build !
But ive been makin smoke with other stuff -- Ill be lurkin and copying stuff !
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Stay tuned - I know I'll run into many more problems before this is done. Next step is to mock up the hydraulic clutch and ensure I have the right stroke at the clutch. Will need to do some fabrication to mount the slave cylinder.
As soon as that is done, the whole drive-train can be installed.
 
legacy - no the car for sale is NOT the 6.1 swapper car - im not gonna hijack the thread to post pics
but Im doin a 72 SSP .. super plus on moparts project page

REAL WING , where are you installing the FAST modules , under dash . glove compartment ? Trunk ?


:coffee2:
 
I think thats the only place , but not sure -
Ive seen modules bolted IN engine compartments .
Not sure if modules ARE weather tite , but
Cant seem to find any other images but one -
Of one of the modules bolted to a block or firewall .

Any thoughts on this ?
 
Sogtx? said:
I think thats the only place , but not sure -
Ive seen modules bolted IN engine compartments .
Not sure if modules ARE weather tite , but
Cant seem to find any other images but one -
Of one of the modules bolted to a block or firewall .

Any thoughts on this ?
Click to expand...

The modules are "not 100% waterproof" as stated in FAST documents. The connectors that plug into the FAST modules are definitely not waterproof. FAST states that the modules are designed for underhood temperatures, however, from an engineering perspective, heat soaking and heat cycling of electronic circuit boards should be avoided to minimize the probability of failures. For these reasons, I would definitely not put them in the engine compartment.
 
I'm at the point of installing the brake and clutch master cylinders. I started with the brake master - a Wilwood p/n 260-9439-P 7/8" kit, which was supplied with the Reilly Motorsports suspension kits.
It is supposed to simply bolt onto a '62-'76 A body using a firewall adapter. Not!!!!
The aluminum adapter plate wasn't wide enough to cover the original opening in the firewall!!!
I've now got my machinist making me another adapter which is wider.:banghead:
 

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The slave cylinder was going to be very close to the headers, so I modified the clutch fork pivot to move the fork a little higher. Just welded a piece onto one end of the bracket to shift the fork upwards. Found out that I could not drill new holes in the bracket. It was so hard, that none of my drills could touch it. Had to get my machinist to drill it with a solid carbide drill!!!
 

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i would make a heat shield for that slave cyl,,, i made one from a can,drilled a hole in the cans bottom several holes all around so the wind from going down the road would not rip the can off,,, i atached the can thru the hole i made to the rear stud on the slave same slave,,as yours,, sounds hooky,,,but it worked,,you may want to in prove on the idea for appearance,,,just my .02
 

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Had my machinist make me a new adapter plate that had an additional 1/4" added to the top and 1/8" added to the bottom so it would seal the hole in the firewall.
 

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I'm using a Wilwood 260-5920 kit which has a master cylinder with a 13/16" bore and 1.1" stroke. It is matched with a CNC Series 300 slave cylinder with a 7/8" bore and 1-1/8" stroke.
I mocked up the clutch pedal to find the right pivot point for the MC which turned out to be ~2-1/4" down from the pedal pivot.
I had my machinist make me a threaded standoff that I welded to the clutch pedal.
This put the MC in a bad spot on the firewall because there is a ridge in the way. In hindsight, I should have cut and flattened this area before I got the body painted. (my first screwup!!)
Photo 1 shows the location of the hole
Photo 2 shows the chamfer I had to make on the MC so it would fit against the fireall ridge.
Photo 3 shows the standoff on the clutch pedal.
Photo 4 shows a firewall reinforcing plate (1/8" steel plate)
Photo 5 shows the assembly mocked up (reinforcing plate not installed) I used a 5/16" NC Grade 8 bolt to attach the rod end to the standoff.
Photo 6 is a machining drawing of the standoff
 

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The work on the car looks great, and your pictures and description of all of it, superb. You are going to have one beautiful car there when it is done. Good luck finishing. A '69 340 Formula S fastback was my first car back in 1972, and I always loved it. But I was looking for a 4 speed car and traded it for a '69 swinger 4 speed. Both long gone, and of course would take either one now. Don't ever sell your cuda!
 
Your stand-off being welded on will take care of the bigger offset. Mine is almost identical to yours except I did make a flat spot in the ridge. You should have plenty of room for factory brake lines with yours how it is, I do not, so dont kick yourself to hard.
 
I SEE in one pic u have a backing plate inside at the clutch push rod,then one pic wiith out,, I hope you plan on running some sort of 1/16 or 1/8 thick plate in side,or you will crack your fire wall,,,,
 
fstfish66 said:
I SEE in one pic u have a backing plate inside at the clutch push rod,then one pic wiith out,, I hope you plan on running some sort of 1/16 or 1/8 thick plate in side,or you will crack your fire wall,,,,
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Yes I'm definitely using the 1/8" plate. It might have been one of your posts that caused me to add it.
The one pic didn't have it in place because I just temporarily installed the MC while I mock up the brake lines.
Jim
 
This is the firewall reinforcing plate for the clutch master cylinder. 1/8" steel.
 

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6t6satellite said:
The work on the car looks great, and your pictures and description of all of it, superb. You are going to have one beautiful car there when it is done. Good luck finishing. A '69 340 Formula S fastback was my first car back in 1972, and I always loved it. But I was looking for a 4 speed car and traded it for a '69 swinger 4 speed. Both long gone, and of course would take either one now. Don't ever sell your cuda!
Click to expand...
Thanks
A '69 340 Formula S, 4 speed was my first car as well!!! Sold it for a Dodge Aspen Wally Wagon when family came along. A few years later the Cuda was T boned and gone.
 
I moved the safety switch block up onto the inner fender because it was too close to the headers on the frame rail for my liking.
That meant a lot of tube bending and fitting to get everything connected!!
Note the fairly tight clearance between the clutch MC and the brake MC. You would not want the two to be much closer, otherwise you would not be able to get the brake lines into the MC.
 

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