SS Springs on 75 Duster

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The 1st short block appears to be leaking water thru the timing change cover...as the cover gets old with our great water seem to corrode the aluminum cover the the stock gasket did not seal it...1st time in decades i used only the gasket usually only use rtv...but nope...

i have it all cleaned up and in the process of putting the engine back together...removed the lunati cam and up the camshaft to a hughes 5460 and going to use the Speedmaster CNC heads that had a recent valve job with PAC springs. Car will probably get a roll bar this summer also...The track will be close after MATS this weekend until September....

So if everything makes it thru mats ok..i will work on this thing...

To be continued
 
3-5 degrees down for track. 5-7 down for street. The straighter the line the less angle bind. But also more rotating vibration. It's why street should have more. But with today's caltechs or 4 link systems? What ever the manufacturer recommends. Which I believe is not that much different? I would start on high side. If both track and street?
 
Got the Hughes FT5460 cam degreed in this morning....shooting for 104....hit 104.5 on 1st try.....love it....tomorrow morning the oil pump...pan and timing chain cover go back on...need a new tube on RTV...lol....

Going to move 75 Duster into garage also...since everything else is in the trailers....
 
finished up the short block for this car....got the oil pump and pan back on....and timing chain.....

my 8 yr old grandson decided he wanted to help me get the duster running and into garage ...so we had to make new fuel lines.....started cranking on it....would not fire...not even a fart...check for spark..ok....has gas....popped cap...no rotor...i guess i stole the rotor a few weeks ago...lol....found an old rotor...fired up....had him guide me onto 4 post hoist......then we torn down the engine...LOL...just wanted to see the damage...and here it is....two flat lobes...
the heads are coming off and going onto other short block,,,,,,,next week

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I had a cam go down 4 years back. Started when putting car in trailer to go to the track next morning. It just didn't feel right. At track the car fell off a couple 10ths. And was popping a little on the high RPM. Like it was a carb issue. It quickly got worse. Then began acting like a timing issue. Until I pulled value cover off and can see a couple springs not pushing as hard as its mates. Ended the day. And that particular build in that motor. The lifters were flat solids so didn't show alot of damage. But cam lobes certainly did. This happened at about the time oil removed zinc from their formula. After a little research it turns out this had adverse effects to flat solid lifter. (Where hydrolic and rollers were better able to handle.) I now add comp additive to any motor that has higher cam demands.

Just sharing a simular experience.
 
Assembling old short block that was in this car....but leaked water via the timing chain cover.....pulled the speedmaster heads off the engine in the car and installed on this short block...with hughes cam.....got lifters and crane roller rockers installed and adjusted. ...Gotta clean up the Air gap intake manifold and get it installed.

making progress...track does not open back up until sept...
 
cojohnso said:
3-5 degrees down for track. 5-7 down for street. The straighter the line the less angle bind. But also more rotating vibration. It's why street should have more. But with today's caltechs or 4 link systems? What ever the manufacturer recommends. Which I believe is not that much different? I would start on high side. If both track and street?
Click to expand...

Think u got that wrong, rear end aint gonna rotate on the street as much as on a sticky track.
 
I also installed installed solid bushing in the front of the springs.....
 
Engine is finished sitting on engine stand.....short block in car is ready to come out.....maybe by next weekend this car will be done...for now....

these are the bare cnc speedmaster heads that i had the local machine shop do the valve job on....

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All set to yank the motor out....grandson helping push car off the 4 post lift...and then back into the garage...
 
Working by myself....lol......i removed old motor with trans...and disconnected the engine put it on a engine stand...connected rehashed engine ...connected trans and dropped it in....gotta a lot of the stuff hooked up need to get it up on the lift to finish up.......

probably work on it in the morning for a few hours.....
 
Got the engine fired up around noon...i am sure you all hear it....lol
had some carb problems...was using a rebuilt 750 holley.....engine would run for several minutes and then die......sound like it had a vacuum leak some where.....pulled one of the somewhat new 950 holley out of box....carb has been in box for years now.....what we used to run before switching to e85......well...it was pouring out gas out.....needle and seat shot...stole the them from rebuild car as those were new....finally got it all under control......and finished breaking in cam.....

had issue with timing light went engine first started...selector was on 2 stroke engine and the readings had me confused as the rpm and timing was whacked...

going to pull valve covers off tomorrow and run the valves again.....never hurts to check .....need to wrap this one up and move over to the green duster...
 
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took off valve cover and found no. 4 intake rocker and pushrod were not being nice with each other...the pushrod came off the rocker but was still pushing on the rocker.....took the shaft off and check things out...outside of the pushrod marks on the rocker...everything looked ok....put it back together and ran the valves and all were good....

replaced gaskets on carb bowl and metering block...reassembled and the rear needle and seat was stuck...brand new ....gas shooting out of vent ...removed and played with it...and it seems to be ok now....adjusted floats again...checked jets....engine fired right up....let it fast idle for a few more minutes then idled it down to 1200 rpm....sounds good..still got a fuel leak at front inlet...drip drip....will change out parts next time...

This car is going into the trailer to get out of my way for a while...hope to have it back in the garage later this summer to install a basic roll bar ...as we are slowly making a little more steam as we move forward.....
 
Got the 3 little things done this morning....got the heavy *** metal hood back on by myself...fired up the car and put it in one of the trailers out of my way for awhile.....
 
Had cam lope go flat in engine in this car...the replacement for the one leaking water....it was a Mp557 cam....
Anyway disassemble the short block and removed the cam and thru it in the trash....along with lifters...cleaned everything...thru the oil pump away as it was junk...the main bearing ate some metal but the crank had no scratches...rod bearing look great...

replaced the main and rod bearing...while assembling the engine I put one cap on backwards....dam....the engine would not turn over by hand,,,had to remove a couple rod and pistons to find which one it was......all is well....turns very easy...

need to figure out what cam to put in it....
 
Well I have a set of roller lifters sitting here with 150 passes on them. Even have the cam from our W5 era, but one lobe got “dinged” when it expired :)
 
thanks...just going with a flat tappet cam...

just to keep other people from taking the valve covers off...lol
 
Ordered a Hughes 5460 solid lifter cam......just like the other short block...like to keep things simple...

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Just trying to push you to the dark side! New thick pants and jacket, license bs, chassis cert $$....
 
Have no desire to join that club....

as Clint says....A man needs to know his limitations....
 
cojohnso said:
3-5 degrees down for track. 5-7 down for street. The straighter the line the less angle bind. But also more rotating vibration. It's why street should have more. But with today's caltechs or 4 link systems? What ever the manufacturer recommends. Which I believe is not that much different? I would start on high side. If both track and street?
Click to expand...
Why would a person want 5-7 down " more angle" on a street car that aint gonna twist the rear as much as a well biting dragstrip set up ? Would be running 5-7 out of line all the time - Goes against everything I `ve ever done , or heard !!
 
wrapping up this short block today...got the hughes 5460 cam in and degreed 104 cl with 108 lope spacing.......need to pick out a set of cylinder heads for it......get it all complete and push it back in the corner for another day....

now back to the 71 dart and the 904.....

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Worked on heads for this engine today....upgraded the valve spring and set correct 1.80 for the spring...will have them on the block tomorrow...
 
wrapping up this engine...got the studs installed...I got the heads on torqued down....rockers and pushrods installed..and a Holley SD just sitting on it...
I will adjust the valves then back off the rockers...

I write on the head....363 cu inches...and Int for internal balanced.....

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