Yeah that would be a problem. If you were local I'd send you to a guy who could take care of that job in a couple of days for you. He owns a small chassis shop and does really nice work. But it is hard to find someone like that, they tend to be hidden away a little bit.
Starting a BB Duster project
- Thread starter AndyF
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Yeah that would be a problem. If you were local I'd send you to a guy who could take care of that job in a couple of days for you. He owns a small chassis shop and does really nice work. But it is hard to find someone like that, they tend to be hidden away a little bit.
famous bob
mopar misfit
Yeah, I got a buddy that would help , but he`s so dam busy building engines in a machine shop , and racing his low 8 second vega , he doesn`t have the time . Not too many others I would even ask ------
Well if you have cash in hand just wait a month or two and then he won't be so busy.
I have the FAST XFI 2.0 w/ the ITC option. It takes the electronic speed output from my transmission, definitely plan on using it. It also has the option of using an E-85 sensor.
I've been driving the car for a few weeks now and the cooling system has me a little puzzled. Around town it never gets over 160 degrees even though I have a 180 thermostat in it. I drove it on the freeway the other day and the temp went up to 170 but dropped back down to 160 when I got back on the surface streets. The outside temp has been cool around here, mostly in the low 60's so I probably need to wait for some warmer weather before I know what is going on. I just can't figure out why it doesn't get up to temp. I suppose I could have something wrong with the thermostat. The radiator and hoses get warm so I'm pretty sure water is flowing thru the system. I was thinking that maybe the thermostat was stuck open but it warms up fairly quickly. I suppose I can pull the radiator cap off and fire up the engine to see if I can tell when the thermostat opens.
I found one of my Autometer gages 20*’s off. It read hot.
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
After verifying gauge readings as rumblefish360 suggested, I would start wondering about that fan clutch setup. I had several different replacement fan clutches that are way too tight and never loosen up. Fuel mileage went to **** from the extra drag, and they were very noisy from pulling so much air. You may not hear the extra noise on this beast.
I am no expert, but maybe something to consider.
Also, does your EFI use a different coolant temp sensor than your gauge? If so, do they match or agree with similar readings?
At least it’s not running hot. That’s good.
I am no expert, but maybe something to consider.
Also, does your EFI use a different coolant temp sensor than your gauge? If so, do they match or agree with similar readings?
At least it’s not running hot. That’s good.
Edorion
Well-Known Member
Andy's Duster isn't using the O.E. gauges, it a digital display that reads directly off of the ECM. Still double checking the temp is a good idea, i'd bet the t-stat is opening too early.
PRH
Well-Known Member
Is the temp sensor in the OE location(or very close to it)?
If you’re using you’re temp sensor/t-stat housing, my guess is there is very little coolant flow right at that location until the stat opens.
The path of the flow in the w/p housing with the stat closed is actually going away from the sensor(flow is going down thru the bypass hole).
With the stock sensor, it’s located in the path of the coolant right as it comes out of the heads and back into the W/P housing.
I would try a stat with a few holes drilled in it so there is always coolant flowing past the sensor to see if the numbers are steadier.
I suspect the higher temp readings at speed are simply the result of the stat being open farther, allowing more flow past the sensor.
If you’re using you’re temp sensor/t-stat housing, my guess is there is very little coolant flow right at that location until the stat opens.
The path of the flow in the w/p housing with the stat closed is actually going away from the sensor(flow is going down thru the bypass hole).
With the stock sensor, it’s located in the path of the coolant right as it comes out of the heads and back into the W/P housing.
I would try a stat with a few holes drilled in it so there is always coolant flowing past the sensor to see if the numbers are steadier.
I suspect the higher temp readings at speed are simply the result of the stat being open farther, allowing more flow past the sensor.
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The CTS is mounted in the water pump housing and I've confirmed that it is reading correctly. I think the thermostat is stuck open. I'll install a new one and try that. The good news is that it stays cool. I was working on a Willys the other day that pegged the temp gauge while I was tuning the EFI system and that was on a 40 degree day! I had a big winter coat on trying to stay warm while I was adjusting the tables and when I looked at the gauge the engine was 220 degrees. And it was just idling.
I ordered a few thermostats from Summit so I'll see what they look like when they arrive. I never paid too much attention to thermostats before. Found out that Stant makes three different thermostats for big block Mopar engines. They have an econo one, an OEM one and a Premium one. I have no idea why a company like Stant would make three different thermostats for big block Mopar engines but they do.
It all comes down to price. They have to be able to compete with other brands. Kim
383Duster
Well-Known Member
Same issue with my Duster...stock 383, Champion 22” radiator, new high flow 180 thermostat I checked on the kitchen stove top, 7 blade fan w/no clutch, repop modified shroud. Runs 160 or so usually. The only time it will get 200+ is idling for an extended period during our blast furnace summer...I have checked my gauge with an I/R gun.....
Last year I bought 2 new thermostats, both bad, I forget the brands!
Ouch!
I pulled the thermostat out and tested it and it seems to work just fine. It is an original Mopar thermostat, even has a part number on it. Not sure how old it is, could be 20 years or more. No idea when I bought it or why. I used some boiling water to open up the thermostat and then gradually poured cold water in to see when it closed. Looks like it starts to open around 160 and is fully open at 180. I have a thermocouple attachment for my voltmeter which seems to be pretty accurate. I'm still going to put a new thermostat in there but I'm starting to suspect that this setup just runs cool. I'll know more once I get the engine running with the new thermostat.
famous bob
mopar misfit
JUST RUNS COOL , great, u can always go to 195 or 200 stat
famous bob
mopar misfit
Following.
I had hot 406 sbc in a 92 short wide gmc pick up w/ a 31x19 crossflow/2 rows of 1/1/4'' tubes that did the same thing went to a hotter stat , but it still cycled on the stat, left it that way , never any problem. ,
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
My 500 ran hot. I thought I needed a bigger radiator. Luckily I changed the (new Stant) t-stat with a no name brand and fixed the issue. Your lucky if yours runs cool .
I put a new super stant thermostat in there and now it acts normal. The engine temp comes up to 180 and then hot water begins flowing to the radiator. When the thermostat opens up the engine temp wiggles a little bit and flattens out. So I think the old thermostat was stuck open even though it appeared to be fine. I tested the old thermostat after I pulled it out and it worked just fine. Maybe the spring was weak enough that the water pump forced it open or something. Weather forecast is solid rain for the next week so it will be a while before I test drive the car but it seems to be fixed.
Great. Kim
383Duster
Well-Known Member
guess I will try another new thermostat...
What I learned is that you have to order the Stant part number. The super Stant is the premium brand. Part number is 45478 for the 180 degree. It is about $8 from Summit. Edelbrock sells the same part but they mark it up to $18. Summit sells the econo version as do several other vendors. I ordered a few different thermostats and they were all Stants but most were the econo version just marked up in price. The econo version looks cheap when you compare it side by side with the premium one. For $8, I don't see any reason to pay more or less. I'm returning all of the ripoff parts. I don't see any reason to give Edelbrock $10 for no value add.
383Duster
Well-Known Member
Thanks
The one I have that isn’t acting properly is a high flow 180 from Mancini....acts like it’s stuck open even though it appeared to work properly on the stove top
The one I have that isn’t acting properly is a high flow 180 from Mancini....acts like it’s stuck open even though it appeared to work properly on the stove top
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