Starting a BB Duster project

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About the same as mine , my map reading maybe a couple point higher tho.
Do you have digital timing control? If you have a digital timing curve you can just keep adding timing at idle to smooth it out.
 
Do you have digital timing control? If you have a digital timing curve you can just keep adding timing at idle to smooth it out.

Thanks , I`m still playing w/ it , still need to lean it out a little more too, just upped the timing some last week , dont get around to messing w/ it much.
How much timing are u running in urs ? what are ur fuel settings ?-------nosey aint I ! ----lol thanks again .
 
Thanks , I`m still playing w/ it , still need to lean it out a little more too, just upped the timing some last week , dont get around to messing w/ it much.
How much timing are u running in urs ? what are ur fuel settings ?-------nosey aint I ! ----lol thanks again .

At idle I run 25 degrees of timing and 13.8 air fuel ratio.
 
At idle I run 25 degrees of timing and 13.8 air fuel ratio.


25 degrees doesnt make it hard to start on a hot restart ? So far I`m running 22 , dont remember what the fuel ratio is at idle , not quite as lean as urs tho-----------thanks !
 
25 degrees doesnt make it hard to start on a hot restart ? So far I`m running 22 , dont remember what the fuel ratio is at idle , not quite as lean as urs tho-----------thanks !

Cranking timing is 15 degrees. It only goes to 25 after it fires. Holley EFI has different timing tables for cranking and running.
 
The ability of the Sniper to control the timing, along with being able to create your own timing maps, is absolutely one of its key features as far I’m concerned.

It’s a fantastic system for a real street driven hot rod.
 
Plus the built in data logger. Once users understand how to use the datalogger they can really see the power of it.
 
Plus the built in data logger. Once users understand how to use the datalogger they can really see the power of it.
Plus the built in data logger. Once users understand how to use the datalogger they can really see the power of it.

Out of curiosity , whats the total , and when / what gas are u running ?
 
Got the Dana 60 back in the car. I built new shock plates for the Calverts since I didn't like the plates that Calvert includes with their kits.
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Got the Dana 60 back in the car. I built new shock plates for the Calverts since I didn't like the plates that Calvert includes with their kits.
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What brand of fuel pump does ur system use ?
I was coming home from mens prayer breakfast yesterday morning and started losing fuel pressure / intermitently /Walbro 255lph . Wondering if its the pump or fuel pressure sending unit , both filters are spotless -----more to come .
 
Got the new fuel tank mounted in the trunk and have been out driving the car. I really like how it drives with the 4.10 gears. The 4.56 gears were just too steep for street driving but the 4.10 gears seem to be almost perfect. The new fuel tank works nice also. No more sloshing around and the gas gauge stays steady now rather than going up and down with each corner. The built in sump allows me to run the tank down to empty. Before with the flat bottom fuel cell I couldn't run it below about 20% before the fuel would slosh away from the pickup.
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Hi Andy, Just curious, since this car will see a lot of street use, in the categories of ride vs traction, what do you think of the Calvert system vs a set of Mopar Super Stock springs. Not from personal experience, but I have read the Calvert system was a little hash on the street. And to address the issue of the car sitting unlevel on the super stock springs, some use the same side for less or more arch / height.....also use the lighter weight 2800 lb to get the rear ride height lower.
 
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I have SS springs in my other car and I prefer the ride quality of the Calvert split mono leaf springs. The Calvert linkage rattles when you drive so it is noisy, but the ride is nice and smooth. I think the split mono leaf design is far superior to the super stock spring design. With the split mono leafs you can change the spring rate and/or the ride height fairly quickly. SS springs are difficult to work on unless you have the correct tools. Most people never take apart a SS spring pack to change the ride height or change the spring rate. Individual springs aren't easy to come by for SS springs while Calvert has a full selection of mono leafs on the shelf.
 
I have SS springs in my other car and I prefer the ride quality of the Calvert split mono leaf springs. The Calvert linkage rattles when you drive so it is noisy, but the ride is nice and smooth. I think the split mono leaf design is far superior to the super stock spring design. With the split mono leafs you can change the spring rate and/or the ride height fairly quickly. SS springs are difficult to work on unless you have the correct tools. Most people never take apart a SS spring pack to change the ride height or change the spring rate. Individual springs aren't easy to come by for SS springs while Calvert has a full selection of mono leafs on the shelf.

Thanks for the reply. I agree, most people would not take apart the SS springs, but maybe because they are available in different spring rates, simply buy what they feel will work best, ride height wise. My thinking, and I could be wrong (ask my wife) is that if I wanted the rear to sit lower, I would buy the softer (2800) springs for my 3400 lb A body.....maybe I'm under thinking it.

if it were a track car....I would not hesitate to go Calvert.
 
Thanks for the reply. I agree, most people would not take apart the SS springs, but maybe because they are available in different spring rates, simply buy what they feel will work best, ride height wise. My thinking, and I could be wrong (ask my wife) is that if I wanted the rear to sit lower, I would buy the softer (2800) springs for my 3400 lb A body.....maybe I'm under thinking it.

if it were a track car....I would not hesitate to go Calvert.

Just depends what you're trying to accomplish. If you are interested in ride quality then you should invest in a split mono-leaf spring. Any spring pack has a lot of internal friction from the leaves sliding over each other. That friction is what creates the ride harshness since the leaves stick at first then slide. It is all very non-linear behavior which you feel as "harshness". Try some Calvert split mono-leafs on your car but leave the front pivot and link bar off. Just use the springs and then a snubber or whatever else you currently use to control the wrap. Buy a high quality shock and you'll have a nice system.
 
Just depends what you're trying to accomplish. If you are interested in ride quality then you should invest in a split mono-leaf spring. Any spring pack has a lot of internal friction from the leaves sliding over each other. That friction is what creates the ride harshness since the leaves stick at first then slide. It is all very non-linear behavior which you feel as "harshness". Try some Calvert split mono-leafs on your car but leave the front pivot and link bar off. Just use the springs and then a snubber or whatever else you currently use to control the wrap. Buy a high quality shock and you'll have a nice system.

I got the calvert rattle on my drivers side , going to titen it just a hair . Also , I have a pair of 002-003 springs that had bent the pass. side right behind the front spring eye , (mexico made ) , I took it apart and cut a special reinforcement 2bd leaf for it , trying to not raise the car , but ran into the complete calvert set up cheaper than I could buy , so never really tried the s/ springs . taking them apart and reworking and putting them back together aint no big deal w/
c grip vise grips ,and a long tapered punch to keep the holes lined up .

Andy , have you had that kick *** duster on the strip yet ?
 
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