Starting a BB Duster project

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AndyF said:
Got the new fuel tank mounted in the trunk and have been out driving the car. I really like how it drives with the 4.10 gears. The 4.56 gears were just too steep for street driving but the 4.10 gears seem to be almost perfect. The new fuel tank works nice also. No more sloshing around and the gas gauge stays steady now rather than going up and down with each corner. The built in sump allows me to run the tank down to empty. Before with the flat bottom fuel cell I couldn't run it below about 20% before the fuel would slosh away from the pickup.
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Yes, as i said before, the 4.10 would be your best street/strip gear. I had a 4:30 with a 28" tire and i hated it. The performance was no better either. I like the fuel cell. Do you know if there is a fuel cell available with baffles to prevent fuel flow away from pick up on braking as i have the same problem with 3 gallons of less in the cell?
 
Hello Andy, would you be interested in making a set of those calvert style shock plates you fabricated? They look similar to the ones you already sell but with the calvert heim joint brackets welded onto them. The tie down point also looks to be bent outward on a angle also. They look awesome and have been enjoying following your projects. Thanks much.
 
Mo-Better said:
Hello Andy, would you be interested in making a set of those calvert style shock plates you fabricated? They look similar to the ones you already sell but with the calvert heim joint brackets welded onto them. The tie down point also looks to be bent outward on a angle also. They look awesome and have been enjoying following your projects. Thanks much.
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I can sell you a kit of parts but you'll have to weld it together. It is best to bolt the shock plates into the car and then figure out where you want the lower shock mount based on how long your shock is and how much travel it has. Once you have it all figured out you tack it together under the car then pull the plates out and finish weld them and then get them powder coated or painted. Shoot me a PM if you want to buy a kit.
 
Had the Duster out the other day for a drive and the radiator cracked. So pulled the radiator but no luck on getting it fixed. The old school radiator guy that I've used in the past has gone out of business and the fancy shop said they couldn't repair the radiator. So I ended up buying a replacement radiator which of course didn't fit correctly. Took some modifications but I did get it back together and have had it back out on the street. Just have to put some miles on it before I can declare it fixed. So far the new radiator is holding pressure and the coolant recovery system is working so that is all good.
 
I'm starting to round up parts for a more serious transmission build. The 727 in the car right now is basically just a stock rebuild with some HD parts and a Turbo Action reverse manual valve body. I ordered up some of the good stuff from A&A. Billet front drum, 5 pinion steel planet assembly, lightweight sun shell, aluminum parking assembly with a governor delete and an ultimate sprag. I'm going to dry fit the parts together then take it across town to a pro and have him put it all together for me.
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AndyF said:
I'm starting to round up parts for a more serious transmission build. The 727 in the car right now is basically just a stock rebuild with some HD parts and a Turbo Action reverse manual valve body. I ordered up some of the good stuff from A&A. Billet front drum, 5 pinion steel planet assembly, lightweight sun shell, aluminum parking assembly with a governor delete and an ultimate sprag. I'm going to dry fit the parts together then take it across town to a pro and have him put it all together for me.
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Splain the governor eliminator deal to me ----------never heerd of it ! < okie from the sticks
 
famous bob said:
Splain the governor eliminator deal to me ----------never heerd of it ! < okie from the sticks
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I have a manual valve body so the governor assembly is just dead weight spinning on the shaft. A&A sells a simple sleeve that eliminates the governor so you don't have to spin that weight up to speed after each shift.
 
famous bob said:
Splain the governor eliminator deal to me ----------never heerd of it ! < okie from the sticks
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Governor regulates line pressure to "communicate" to the valve body when to shift. It is a weight centrifugally working against a spring. The valve body doesn't need that signal if it is manually actuated. Rotating dead weight, the worst kind.
 
The rear Weld wheels finally showed up. I ordered them back in June but Weld screwed up and built the wrong ones and then took a long time to build the correct ones. The tires were also on backorder as were the brakes. I have the 9 inch on order with Doctor Diff so once that shows up I'll be able to put all the new stuff on the car.
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AndyF said:
The rear Weld wheels finally showed up. I ordered them back in June but Weld screwed up and built the wrong ones and then took a long time to build the correct ones. The tires were also on backorder as were the brakes. I have the 9 inch on order with Doctor Diff so once that shows up I'll be able to put all the new stuff on the car.
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i know the feeling. My 305s have been on back order for about the same time with no end in sight. So I'm trying to find an el cheapo set to just set my car down on and so far, no luck.
 
AndyF said:
I have a manual valve body so the governor assembly is just dead weight spinning on the shaft. A&A sells a simple sleeve that eliminates the governor so you don't have to spin that weight up to speed after each shift.
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Would u mind if I asked the cost of those trans. parts ?? I would like to do the same , except for the manual shift -----
 
AndyF said:
Had the Duster out the other day for a drive and the radiator cracked. So pulled the radiator but no luck on getting it fixed. The old school radiator guy that I've used in the past has gone out of business and the fancy shop said they couldn't repair the radiator. So I ended up buying a replacement radiator which of course didn't fit correctly. Took some modifications but I did get it back together and have had it back out on the street. Just have to put some miles on it before I can declare it fixed. So far the new radiator is holding pressure and the coolant recovery system is working so that is all good.
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Bummer! Which radiator did you go with for a replacement, if I may ask?
 
Red_Duster said:
Bummer! Which radiator did you go with for a replacement, if I may ask?
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It is a Cordoba radiator. You can't buy good radiators anymore, just stuff made offshore or Mexico so that is what I ended up with. It seems to work okay but I would've preferred to get an original one if possible. The reproduction stuff isn't correct.
 
famous bob said:
Would u mind if I asked the cost of those trans. parts ?? I would like to do the same , except for the manual shift -----
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Just depends what you order. A&A has prices listed on their website. You'll probably spend $2000 by the time you buy a billet drum, ultra sprag and a high quality steel pinion carrier.
 
AndyF said:
It is a Cordoba radiator. You can't buy good radiators anymore, just stuff made offshore or Mexico so that is what I ended up with. It seems to work okay but I would've preferred to get an original one if possible. The reproduction stuff isn't correct.
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I just received my refurbished 22" radiator for a restoration project from Glen-Ray. Not big enough for your application, but their work is top notch.
 
The new 9 inch assembly is here. I need to bend up some brake lines and then it can go under the Duster. I'll put the existing S60 up for sale along with the matching Centerlines and tires.
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