Starting and Running Problem...

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mullinax95 said:
I have seen worse....it looks like it just needs re threaded.

What does the threads look like in the rocker?
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Can I just take it out and look at it or how does that work? Right now it is filled with oil... I'm so scared that it is just going to come off again and seriously damage something.
 
If the threads still work and tighten you could clean it up really good and apply a thread locker to it to try and keep it from moving. I use the red or green locktite brand. You can find them at napa or any parts store. This would just be a short term fix. If you need a couple spare rocker arms and adjusters let me know. I have quite a few and I could send you a couple for free.
 
edb_app said:
Can I just take it out and look at it or how does that work? Right now it is filled with oil... I'm so scared that it is just going to come off again and seriously damage something.
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No you don't have to take it off.... I was just trying to figure out why it keeps backing off. Does it turn more freely than the others?

Pull the push rod out and see if it is bent... don't worry it will go back in its proper place without no problems.

If it is not the rocker, rocker adjusting bolt, or push rod then it might possibly be a wiped out cam lobe.
 
63dartman said:
If the threads still work and tighten you could clean it up really good and apply a thread locker to it to try and keep it from moving. I use the red or green locktite brand. You can find them at napa or any parts store. This would just be a short term fix.
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The threads still do work but only for a short amount of time, then it slowly starts creeping up until... Tick Tick Tick Tick... The #6 exhaust is the only one doing anything crazy.

63dartman said:
If you need a couple spare rocker arms and adjusters let me know. I have quite a few and I could send you a couple for free.
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Would you really do that, like I said before... this is my first Classic and I don't want to loose her to a stubborn bolt. Just let me know. Thanks for your response!
 
Sorry for my ignorance but what is it that locks the adjuster to the
rocker arm usually? Locktite?
Haven´t done any wrenching on slants.
 
Yeah just send me a private message with your address and I'll send them out on tues. (Mon is memorial day) The ones I have are a little different because they have a nut on top to lock down the adjuster once it is set to the right position. For now just try the thread locker. Clean it up good and apply the locker to the threads and let it set up over night. I think it would be fine for awhile.

SWEDE, it's a interference fit on the threads sort of like a locking nut.
 
This reminds me of something that happened to me a few years back. I had just finished installing a pretty healthy brand x street/strip motor that I had freshened up for the guy, went from a solid to a pretty healthy mech. roller, made some other changes. I had set the timing, re-torqued the heads, restricted the idle feed, as it wasnt responsive to the mixture screws, re-lashed the valves hot. After I did all this, He had cleaned the plug wires with soap & water, I put em back on, going through the firing order as I went, & we were out on the first test drive. It also had an MSD 6A on it.
So at first, it was running like gangbusters(the car ran 11.04 next time out, eventually ran 10.90s with the same combo), but then it started to miss on one cylinder, so I told him to pull over. By the time we pulled over, another cylinder had started missing. So we get out, lift the hood off, and there are two plug wires off, laying on the headers. I am kind of baffled, because I was damn sure I had pushed them all on tight. So I reached down to check another plug wire, and when I touched it, there was a small pop and it popped off the plug into my hand. For a minute or two I was THOROUGHLY baffled, standing on the side of the road, scratching my head. Then I started laughing...
Anyone wanna hazard a guess as to what was going on? Ramcharger will probably nail this, but pm me, and lets see if some of the others can figure it out before you respond.
 
63dartman said:
Yeah just send me a private message with your address and I'll send them out on tues. (Mon is memorial day) The ones I have are a little different because they have a nut on top to lock down the adjuster once it is set to the right position. For now just try the thread locker. Clean it up good and apply the locker to the threads and let it set up over night. I think it would be fine for awhile.

SWEDE, it's a interference fit on the threads sort of like a locking nut.
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Thanks :thumleft:
 
63dartman said:
I would say he left the soap residue in the plug wires and caused them to pop off.
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Yes! there was a small amount of residual moisture in the boots, turned to steam as soon as the headers started to heat up, and it started blowing plug wires off.
 
daredevil said:
very artistic waggin
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Isn't he!!! That was soooo helpful for me (someone who has never seen the inside of a valve cover). Everyone on here has been soooo great. Calmed me down immensely!!! I thought for sure my engine was ka-poot! But Thank you all soooo very much and I will keep everyone updated on the locktight solution provided!:cheers::toothy10:
 
Thank's Pete! that was a challenge for me!took me longer to explain it than it did for her to adjust the valves but sounds like she got it done...Good Job!!! now for some thread locker on that pesky loose adjuster nut,clean it real good with spray carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner,on the rocker arm put some paper towels under it so the cleaner doesnt go down in the oil pan and make sure it's good and dry before applying the thread locker.that should hold you till you get a new rocker arm and adjuster nut.or maybe a trip to the hardware store could net you a thin enough nut to use for a locker witch should last forever.
daredevil said:
very artistic waggin
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when do get to see the rest of the car????were guy's need to see the car!!!!

pesky.jpg
 
waggin said:
Thank's Pete! that was a challenge for me!took me longer to explain it than it did for her to adjust the valves but sounds like she got it done...Good Job!!! now for some thread locker on that pesky loose adjuster nut,clean it real good with spray carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner,on the rocker arm put some paper towels under it so the cleaner doesnt go down in the oil pan and make sure it's good and dry before applying the thread locker.that should hold you till you get a new rocker arm and adjuster nut.
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Thank you for everything Waggin!!!! I actually did just this before reading it... hehe... can you believe I figured something out for myself!!! haha. Not its in and I measured it at .023 cold. We will see how things go in the a.m. once it sets overnight.

Oh and speaking of rocker arms... how the heck do you get one of them buggers off??? I looked and looked and it seemed to be I would have to take off the whole rod they sit on... is that correct???

Once again THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!
 
yep take the whole thing off,you might be able to take it most of the way off and pull the bolt closest to the rocker arm and it will slide off,if the rockers the other guy send you don't pan out drop me your address and I'll send one out for shipping cost.keep up the good work and post some pic's of the "jewel" here's my 73 duster and the "waggin"

My340duster.JPG


wagginatshow.JPG
 
She's really a diamond in the rough right now... but with all the work I have been putting into her... shes gonna shine brighter than any star out there... may take a couple years... but shes gonna BLING... haha... heres some starter pics.

Oh and there are 4 layers of paint on top of the green... thats why we are sanding her down to see whats under there and make her feel skinnier! I took out the buckets and put in a bench... on top of a million other little things...

DSC05536.jpg


DSC05999.jpg


DSC06009.jpg
 
So far so good... but I have to give it a couple hours of driving to see if it will creep back up again.

THANKS AGAIN!!!

Next project... CARB and wheel bearings!!!
 
Hey Looks Like a solid car!! all them layers of paint saved it from rusting!try to keep her out of the rain,primer will absorb moisture.
 
I sent you a pm also, your rockers arms are on the way, shipped this morning. 3 with the adjusters like yours and three with the locking nuts.
 
Locktite is still working like a charm... but the replacement has arrived... and will be placed on this weekend probably... One more thing though... one of the rockers is moving side to side on the bar. <----/----> as well as the usual up and down.... is this okay???
 
edb_app said:
Locktite is still working like a charm... but the replacement has arrived... and will be placed on this weekend probably... One more thing though... one of the rockers is moving side to side on the bar. <----/----> as well as the usual up and down.... is this okay???
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Yes ......as long as the rocker is not in threat of slipping off of the valve stem. It should stay in the center actually but with wear it will start to move a little more off center.
 
Glad the guys are helping with the valve issue. Thanks for the photos of the engine compartment and all. I kept looking at the vacuum hose routing and said to myself, "Something ain't right, here." Off-hand, I'd say there has been a bunch of third world line and port capping as a result of hacking out the emissions control systems. Suggest getting an assortment of vacuum port caps and get rid of the hoses with screws stuck in them. Just about any auto parts store carries them in a blister pack.

There also has been some substantial fuel leakage from the carburetor. If the carburetor is wet after a long run, it is still leaking and needs attention. I'm no big fan of early EGR systems and would recommend putting a metal plug in the hole in the bottom of the intake in the event the carburetor is removed. I enlarged the hole in my intake a little and used a press-fit oil gallery plug to close it up.

If you want to change your air filter housing, get one from a 67 or earlier /6 that does not have the closed crankcase breather. The open and snorkel air filter housings have different element heights. Know which year model is donating your replacement housing. The closed crankcase breather air filter housings have a 90º elbow off the side that connects via hose to the closed crankcase breather (yours is open). In truth any /6 1 bbl air filter housing will work. Since the breather enters upstream of the air filter element, there's no compromise to the engine by leaving it open.
 
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