dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
don't knowSame as LA, isn't it?
don't knowSame as LA, isn't it?
Get out the weather dartboard, lol. Our weather is always a yo-yo. And October-November are some of the least predictable. 'Normal' high then is probably 70's. But light snow in October is not uncommon, and I was doing bondo on the Duster in the driveway wearing a t-shirt Christmas week several years ago.As long as it is warm while I am there in a few weeks....
I thought the only difference are the heads....intake ETC.don't know
heads, cam, intake, exhaust etc. block is also different in the oil passages, the LA is very close, block is also thicker in the poly.I thought the only difference is the heads....intake ETC.
Don't need it. Put in some Slick 50 and plug it.oh and I need to find a dipstick tube for a poly
It will never be on the road anyway.....at least not while there is still gasoline available!! Chris is a little slow.....Don't need it. Put in some Slick 50 and plug it.
Mattax, have seen that before. It's usually because there was not enough contact cement applied to both weatherstrip and the trunk flange surface.
People will put the weatherstrip adhesive only on the rubber weatherstripping and stick it on wet . . not exactly right.
Follow the outline in Post 296160 with @Bills65Dart
If you want to get the rubber weather strip to stick really good, apply 2 coats of Contact Cement to the weatherstrip adhesive side and 2 coats to the trunk flange. Letting each coat air dry for 10 minutes before applying the 2nd coat. After the 2nd coat on the parts let the whole thing air dry 15 minutes to flash off and tack up. Then you can stick it down next, it is quite permanent. Provided you have cleaned the surfaces with a fast dry enamel reducer to prepare them for the adhesives.
Good to have a second pair of hands to hold the glued weatherstrip 4 inches up off the trunk flange, while the next person carefully sticks it down in a straight line without stretching it. Want to get the length right doing this, a little push or pull on the weatherstrip is ok while sticking it down to get the length to come out just right. This is where the second pair of hands come in real handy.
Good Luck . . and yes we want to help you keep the water out of the trunk . . .
.....It will never be on the road anyway.....at least not while there is still gasoline available!! Chris is a little slow.....
Water gets in the trunk thru other places, like rust holes around the back window, I think the trunk pinch weld does a good job of preventing water ingress....Hi and thank you.
I found this too: trunk seal install
The car came up here without any seal at all. And the paint has not been clear coated either. I think I bought the trunk lid seal and door seals from Rock Auto. Hope it works. As long as I am not driving the car in rain, or little or no wind when raining I guess I am safe.
Bill
You do know I am joking, right? Your my bud!.....
oh i knowYou do know I am joking, right? Your my bud!
I think the dipstick on the 318 in the dart is broken as well. I think I JB welded it in place....you would think. seems a lot of people break them when trying to remove them
Water gets in the trunk thru other places, like rust holes around the back window, I think the trunk pinch weld does a good job of preventing water ingress....
What I meant was, I think no matter how you install the seal, it will do its job. Lots of other ways to get water in there...oh, but I mean, the trunk lid seal will not help keeping water out that comes in other places. We have had rain 2 mornings this week, but well, maybe I should go and look to see if there are any water in the trunk.
Bill
Spray foam?How do you guys glue the trunk lid seal in place?
Bill
Yeh, make sure it closes any gaps in the metal flange ‘wall’. I would agree the actual sealing to the lid is secondaryWhat I meant was, I think no matter how you install the seal, it will do its job. Lots of other ways to get water in there...
"Pro" tip!!!Spray foam?
What I meant was, I think no matter how you install the seal, it will do its job. Lots of other ways to get water in there...
Spray foam?
Expanding insulating foam in a spray can. Its adhesive. Guaranteed trunk will seal. But never open again...As in soap bubbles ?
And your technique? Do you spray it on then close the lid? Or close it first and run around in the gap?Spray foam?
Works good as a rust repair in quarter panels, spray it in, carve the correct body lines, a little Bondo, some paint, Wa la! All fixed!! Time for a rust free quick flipExpanding insulating foam in a spray can. Its adhesive. Guaranteed trunk will seal. But never open again...