zkx14
Duster De-ruster
Pumped a couple 5gal cans along with filling the car yesterday. $2.09 and I had .40/gal off at Giant.Afternoon gas pumpers.
Pumped a couple 5gal cans along with filling the car yesterday. $2.09 and I had .40/gal off at Giant.Afternoon gas pumpers.
Is there a ground between engine and body? Curious is all.Evening all.
so worked down my list of things to check.
I replaced all the vacuum caps, there was one with a crack.
took ether and sprayed around the carb base, found the adapter plate was leaking between it and the intake, removed it all, took a wire wheel to the top of the intake and knocked all the page and rust off, torqued it down and then added a 3/4 inch open plenum spacer just to make sure the butterflies were not hitting anything, even though they didn’t appear to be. Secondaries are a bit stiff in movement but they do move.
relocated the choke wire to a full 12 V, it’s now opening and closing fully.
Also managed to run a remove starter via a 6 ft jumper wire to the starter so I move around the car and under the hood.
oil pressure is about 45 steady while cranking, climbs to 65 the few seconds it fires.
All that above helped me get the revs down from nearly 4K, however, I still can’t solve the fact it dies within a second or two of letting go of the key.
I put in a new ignition switch, and ballast resistor, no change.
Ran a direct wire to the coil from the battery, no change whatsoever there.
I turned down the electric pump down to 5 psi. Didn’t help or change anything.
It’s like it cuts the electrical power as soon as the starter is released.
Yes, 3 actually. I ran two additional on memikes advice a few weeks ago. That’s in addition to the ground from the battery to the engine and the ground from the head to the frameIs there a ground between engine and body? Curious is all.
I hooked a 12 volt test light to the positive side of the coil, it lights up bright while cranking, dies instantly once I let go of the starter button, with the key in the run locationI would be monitoring voltage at coil,and run a tach on other side of coil.
Timing coming on and advancing it too far?
You just confirmed it, ballast or run circuit is bad.I hooked a 12 volt test light to the positive side of the coil, it lights up bright while cranking, dies instantly once I let go of the starter button, with the key in the run location
Only if he did it right, by his description of the power to the coil...he didn’t.He said he hot wired it!!!! Eliminates the run circuit!!!!
I did exactly that boss. It still won’t stay runningChris, run a wire from the Batt Plus to the Plus side on the coil. Please......other wise tough to trouble shoot any further.....That will eliminate all the wiring in the car.....It should run till you remove the hot wire.........And make sure to remove the hot wire when you are done trouble shooting it, it will kill the coil and batt if left on, like all night...
Guys I work with call each other boss all the time..... one time I asked why so?I did exactly that boss. It still won’t stay running
Lol that’s funny, never heard that beforeGuys I work with call each other boss all the time..... one time I asked why so?
One guy told me it means B.o.s.s. = big o sacko ****.
Been there done that. Coil puked out all the oil and points were burned. Glad Ray sent me some good points, so i had replacements.Chris, run a wire from the Batt Plus to the Plus side on the coil. Please......other wise tough to trouble shoot any further.....That will eliminate all the wiring in the car.....It should run till you remove the hot wire.........And make sure to remove the hot wire when you are done trouble shooting it, it will kill the coil and batt if left on, like all night...
Ok that is just plain **** right there! Thx!