Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Had to go look.
centistokes is centimeters squared per second.

An older measurement for car oils was Saybolt viscosity. Its just in seconds.
Thats easier to understand. Pour the oil through the test machine and if its thin, it goes through in less time than if its thick.
OK that I get.
 
Had to go look.
centistokes is centimeters squared per second.

An older measurement for car oils was Saybolt viscosity. Its just in seconds.
Thats easier to understand. Pour the oil through the test machine and if its thin, it goes through in less time than if its thick.
That's more my speed! LOL
 
I does knows some stuff but not that **** there it is like majic man, just magic!
 
I am out befor the shop turns into a air fryer. Have a nos distrib housing guy wants me to do a 100 point with, should be fun for a change but wearing gloves suck!
 
centipoise LOL thanks for dumbing that down, reay lost. One day explain it to me. USING CRAYONS so I get it!:poke:
Loved that game. Good Morning

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really the point of my post about the oil viscosity was that the most important factor is temperature.
On a regular Chysler engine from the 60s, a 5W-20 at normal operating temps is going to be really thin.
It only makes sense to use a 5W-20 with normal bearing clearances if the engine is running really cold.
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I have heard that if guys have a vasectomy, then they have a viscosity problem....But not my problem...:rofl:
 
Back from the eyeball Doc. Fun driving home pretty much one eyed cause dilated the heck out of it. Center is like 10 times the size of the other one.
Have nasty floaters in right eye. No retina separation or holes, so he says it's 'normal' and nothing to do. I guess in some situations, they drain fluid, but would increase risk of retinal damage.
 
Morning Mopar heads, back read was kind of slikery. Been down with a Kidney stone flair up, feel good today, don't know if it's a good day or if I passed it. Need more coffee now.
 
really the point of my post about the oil viscosity was that the most important factor is temperature.
On a regular Chysler engine from the 60s, a 5W-20 at normal operating temps is going to be really thin.
It only makes sense to use a 5W-20 with normal bearing clearances if the engine is running really cold.
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I figured I’d run the stuff to help get 30 years worth of old sludge out. I’m gonna switch the gauge out and let ya know
 
Good info back reading. As always, Matt does not disappoint. The rest of you guys are OK as well......:thumbsup::lol:
 
Picture of your throttle/kickdown linkage at the carb? You running stock or Lokar?
Really all I did was use the stock 66 kickdown setup, the kind that the bellcrank bolts to the back of the head, and instead of using the stationary attached "arm" to the carb stud, I am using a sliding setup like later cars.
 
Really all I did was use the stock 66 kickdown setup, the kind that the bellcrank bolts to the back of the head, and instead of using the stationary attached "arm" to the carb stud, I am using a sliding setup like later cars.
Just curious as to how it's adjusted. Where is the pin on the carb in relation to the slot in the KD linkage?
 
Morning Mopar heads, back read was kind of slikery. Been down with a Kidney stone flair up, feel good today, don't know if it's a good day or if I passed it. Need more coffee now.
Ouch. Not fun!
 
Really all I did was use the stock 66 kickdown setup, the kind that the bellcrank bolts to the back of the head, and instead of using the stationary attached "arm" to the carb stud, I am using a sliding setup like later cars.
Picture shows one I made on top. Bottom is late 66 rod. I am going to use the bottom I think. I just do not like how spring attaches

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Just curious as to how it's adjusted. Where is the pin on the carb in relation to the slot in the KD linkage?
There were two adjustments. One at the carb that you see in the picturs, the other is on the rod coming up from the bell crank.
 
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