Stop in for a cup of coffee

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dukeboy_318 said:
Sweet that solves that issue. Probably gonna have to lay this out and figure out what goes where, this will be FUN
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A little tech tip if you don’t already know. When installing the new harness. Instead of using the vehicle battery when testing the circuits, use a small battery charger, a 10/2 is great. They have built in circuit breakers. If something is askew it trips the breaker instead of melting wires and well you know where it goes from there.
 
Bought a 1956 Chrysler New Yorker Newport 4dr hardtop. Missing 354 hemi and 2-speed tranny!

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MomsDuster said:
A little tech tip if you don’t already know. When installing the new harness. Instead of using the vehicle battery when testing the circuits, use a small battery charger, a 10/2 is great. They have built in circuit breakers. If something is askew it trips the breaker instead of melting wires and well you know where it goes from there.
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Giving away trade secrets.....:thumbsup:
 
65dartcharger said:
Bought a 1956 Chrysler New Yorker Newport 4dr hardtop. Missing 354 hemi and 2-speed tranny!

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Is it solid?
Worked on a 59 regent. When i was reading up on them, the body is flimsy, and they flex. The windshield and back windows would leak constantly. This i know is a fact, the previous owner fixed the floor, and when i pulled seats and rubber mat it was like a kiddie pool. And could see traces where water trailed in from front and rear glass.
 
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I've been threatening to do this for a while now. Like a Year ! The gutters have guards in them, but with so many trees behind the building, the small sticks and crap still collects on the edge of the roof. Looks Like ****. Ya cant really see that from the angle of the pic. Was going to wait for all the leaves to fall, but I just couldn't look at it anymore...No drinking Beer today while working on a ladder....:lol:
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MOPARMITCH said:
I've been threatening to do this for a while now. Like a Year ! The gutters have guards in them, but with so many trees behind the building, the small sticks and crap still collects on the edge of the roof. Looks Like ****. Ya cant really see that from the angle of the pic. Was going to wait for all the leaves to fall, but I just couldn't look at it anymore...No drinking Beer today while working on a ladder....:lol:
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Be careful Mitch. It's not the fall that hurts, it's the sudden stop at the end.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
@Mattax or anyone else,

I’m shopping for a new wiring harness, decided I’m either going to make my own clone of the factory or get one of the Painless/Rebel newer style harnesses. Most options appear to use a voltmeter system vs an ammeter. Would this affect the rest of my gauges any? I’m only running factory gauges on the Polara, the dart is full aftermarket with a Voltmeter anyway, so no issue there.
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Chris, mount the fuse box where you want it, then run all the wires where they go. Then start hooking them up, will make it easier to fallow.
 
:BangHead:Ya, so i had an issue with a brake fitting. No way to get line started,astro van so its not easy to access. Cross threaded the prop valve:BangHead:
Have been through this before, but never really bound up the threads this bad. Effer!

i beat it though!
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MOPARMITCH said:
I've been threatening to do this for a while now. Like a Year ! The gutters have guards in them, but with so many trees behind the building, the small sticks and crap still collects on the edge of the roof. Looks Like ****. Ya cant really see that from the angle of the pic. Was going to wait for all the leaves to fall, but I just couldn't look at it anymore...No drinking Beer today while working on a ladder....:lol:
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Gunner does not seem concerned so you should be safe!
 
Sublime one said:
I only hit agree because there is not a super agree button. Countless cars damaged by that one offending issue.
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Let see 'em.
I've seen more guys on this forum and IFSJA screwing themselves attempting to make this 'improvement' than actual ammeter failures that caused fires. Seen a few blame the ammeter, but with either no evidence shown or evidence to the contrary.
In fact, it got so bad at IFSJA I made a list of guys from just a few threads there which got caught in this chicken little scenario. I reposted that here a while back.
Bottom line is:
A. When there is a problem indicated by the ammeter, it needs to be dealt with.
B. Most home mechanics do not invest the time and money to produce wiring and connections that are equal to the factory connections. They're also unaware of the importance of wire support and strain relief.

IMO Anyone who beleives all of the car's power goes through the ammeter does not know enough about the system to be modifying it.
Drive in a vehicle with an ammeter and look at it now then and you will see that's not true.

Chris. You do what you want.
 
Mopar Tim said:
you do not agree @Mattax ?
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I do not and have summarized my reasons above.

On John's own projects, it makes sense to use a different (non-factory) approach to providing power. I think that's true for any project with envisions continuous electric loads, especially loads that will draw on the battery during start or when the engine is off. That's pretty much any EFI project.
 
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The amperage that charges the battery sure as heck goes thru the amp meter. Why else have it....
Mattax said:
IMO Anyone who believes all of the car's power goes through the ammeter does not know enough about the system to be modifying it.
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And that is most of the load....
 
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