Stop in for a cup of coffee

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I guess I didn’t post it, I thought I did.

wires completely toast:
Alternator all the way back to the firewall
Horns all the way to the horn relay.
the ammeter wire all the way to the bulk head.
The ammeter wires under the dash(I’m guessing when the fire happened, it grounded something and juiced it?)
Headlight harness on passenger side.
Coil positive wire.
Water temperature wire
Oil temp wire
The blue wires on the ballast resistor mounted on the firewall
Voltage regulator itself melted.

not counting the rest of the damage:
Fuel pump,
Alternator
Plug wires
Upper radiator hose
Belt.
Washer bottle
Horns
Valve covers
fuel lines
Thats a start.
There is no ammeter wire in the engine compartment.
It can't all be equally damaged. There probably are clues to what began it, how it spread etc.
I don't want to fill morning coffee with post portum analysis.
Set up a conversation that anyone is welcome to join.
 
Thats a start.
There is no ammeter wire in the engine compartment.
It can't all be equally damaged. There probably are clues to what began it, how it spread etc.
I don't want to fill morning coffee with post portum analysis.
Set up a conversation that anyone is welcome to join.
Hey, if some wants to talk about their morning BM, there is nothing wrong with picking apart a failed wiring harness:poke:
 
Made it to shop, fire ban is officially lifted at 08:00 so i can burn a pile of cardboard this morning. Finally!
 
Thats a start.
There is no ammeter wire in the engine compartment.
It can't all be equally damaged. There probably are clues to what began it, how it spread etc.
I don't want to fill morning coffee with post portum analysis.
Set up a conversation that anyone is welcome to join.
I’ll probably do that this evening, I need to get pictures and then go from there
 
Many years ago a friend had a 68 charger, another guy offered to wire in a stereo, smoked the wiring from fusebox to headlight switch. Was a mess.
Had a similar one with a kenworth,dash harness burned. 70 some-odd wires to replace.
It was a metal clip in the dash that rubbed through. Wiring harness sat on it,in its proper retainers. That one was a mess.
This seems to be more typical of what really happens. A little chaffing, a little wear, sometimes a mouse nest.
Yet after all the discussion i did wire in the original ammeter in the Fargo. It was in great shape so i figured why not.
Exactly.

New Jersey, just announced a drop in gasoline Tax.
Hey Pennsylvania, are you paying attention!
Our Gov is too busy changing his mind on othe random decisions he and his people have made.
Our legislature is too busy dealing with their leadership chasing imaginary boogeymen.

Water rates are going up in Pa. Supposedly to pay for infrastructure repairs WHY. Isn't the state getting free money from the Feds. For that?
You're applying logic again.

Today's paper is the best. Philadelphia's leaders are blaming each other and other cities for the lack of trust and cooperation in Philadelphia. :realcrazy:
Well that's progress. Now that they have identified the other guy as the problem, cooperation will be right around the corner.

Good Morning everyone. My comment about ammeters causing fires - mostly due to old wires, years of changes, loose dirty connections, larger alternator outputs with no upgrades, etc. Anyway, like I mentioned elsewhere yesterday, could be wrong - usually am.
Struck a nerve because while I've occassionally seen an ammeter fail, the assertion that ammeters cause lots of cars to burn down doesn't seem to have any basis in fact.
People beleive it, and then go hack their harness with a bunch of cheap dollar store crimp connections and think they've done something good when they've done the opposite.
MAD's recommended hack has design flaws. As they are the biggest promoters of this myth on the web, that's the design most people adopt. :(
 
This seems to be more typical of what really happens. A little chaffing, a little wear, sometimes a mouse nest.

Exactly.


Our Gov is too busy changing his mind on othe random decisions he and his people have made.
Our legislature is too busy dealing with their leadership chasing imaginary boogeymen.


You're applying logic again.

Today's paper is the best. Philadelphia's leaders are blaming each other and other cities for the lack of trust and cooperation in Philadelphia. :realcrazy:
Well that's progress. Now that they have identified the other guy as the problem, cooperation will be right around the corner.


Struck a nerve because while I've occassionally seen an ammeter fail, the assertion that ammeters cause lots of cars to burn down doesn't seem to have any basis in fact.
People beleive it, and then go hack their harness with a bunch of cheap dollar store crimp connections and think they've done something good when they've done the opposite.
MAD's recommended hack has design flaws. As they are the biggest promoters of this myth on the web, that's the design most people adopt. :(
I just wish someone like painless would make a plug and play factory harness. Year one is expensive but I may go that route
 
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2011 ram for exhaust manifold. Fun fun. Supplies manifold,no bolts.
 
Dont forget this!

replacement smoke.JPG


Way to easy sorry!:icon_fU::poke:
 
While cleaning up under the jeep yesterday, checked the heat riser to be sure it was moving free. It moved OK, but not real free, and the bimetal coil broke.
:mad: Bet it has less than 15,000 miles on it. New Junk
 
While cleaning up under the jeep yesterday, checked the heat riser to be sure it was moving free. It moved OK, but not real free, and the bimetal coil broke.
:mad: Bet it has less than 15,000 miles on it. New Junk
You don't need that till it gets cold out :poke:
 
Standard bolt or something special - like AMC's hollow tip bolts?
Hollow tip? No. Got all bolts out and removed 1 broken one. So 1/2 done. 1 hour, not bad. Not bad at all. Waiting for delivery, 10:00.
 
The point is its not the ammeter.
its when the wire insulation chafes against a ground,
or the ammeter connections get loose.

Both of which are issues with routing and wire support, and often someones messing around up there.
Anotehr failure cause mentioned by Redfish, that he had personally seen on certain years '73, '74) is from leaks at the cowl area - windshield or wiper pivots. This causes corrossion. In fact he just warned someone two days ago that joining the ammeter wires doesn't solve the problem. All it does is confirm his other test which showed the ammeter was damaged. Note the ammeter did not explode or even light up.
 
late 80's, I think....Trucks...
Sounds right. I'm pretty sure the Ram350 I drove was an '87 and it had an ammeter. dumper and plow were both wired to the battery. At the time didn't understand why so much current would flow through it when the raising the bed.

'85 was the last year for AMC's Grand Wagoneers to have ammeters.
'86 was the first year of a redesined wiring system. Power distribution began at the starter solenoid. Lots of fusible links.
 
Sounds right. I'm pretty sure the Ram350 I drove was an '87 and it had an ammeter. dumper and plow were both wired to the battery. At the time didn't understand why so much current would flow through it when the raising the bed.

'85 was the last year for AMC's Grand Wagoneers to have ammeters.
'86 was the first year of a redesined wiring system. Power distribution began at the starter solenoid. Lots of fusible links.
All this talk of wiring woes, has me thinking I need to implement a fuse on my 66. Everything inside the car, runs off fusable link. The Amplifiers in the trunk have a 100 Amp fuse. The headlight relays are fused, BUT the line from the ALT to the batt is not. I have a 100 AMP Alt. Modified wiring is used. No Amp gauge.
 
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