Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Looking at the book now.
A-body Slant engine mounts (metal brackets) from 64-66 are 2264668 & 2265023
A-body Slant engine Insulators (rubber bisquits) from 64-66 are 2264140 & 2265018
'67 through '72 are different so doubt what I have will work.
 
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Ok then let's back track . You have new mounts correct? And they are the same or different from the old ones?

The "set" are two identical mounts. Pattern same as the right side only... but they're almost an inch thinner than the current mounts.

Single bolt stud through the K, 2 bolt studs to the engine

Current K is not a spool mount
 
The LA engines used the same insulator right and left.
But again 64-66 was different than 67 through 72.
 
The "set" are two identical mounts. Pattern same as the right side only... but they're almost an inch thinner than the current mounts.

Single bolt stud through the K, 2 bolt studs to the engine

Current K is not a spool mount
Can you use the old ones.
Sorry I'm getting lost here.
 
The "set" are two identical mounts. Pattern same as the right side only... but they're almost an inch thinner than the current mounts.

Single bolt stud through the K, 2 bolt studs to the engine

Current K is not a spool mount
Ok back up.

your K is a 1965?

the engine is a 1981?

Do you know which motor Mount BRACKETS you have?

also, pre-66 mounts were different than later years.

what I would suggest is motor Mount brackets and isolators from the same year as your K, so 1965. The slant 6 block didn’t change so the brackets should interchange.

If you can’t find mounts by the time I get back from California, I’m going to a junkyard the following weekend, I’ll check there
 
Can you use the old ones.
Sorry I'm getting lost here.

Yeah sorry. It's confusing to me as well.

Yes, I could use the same ones.

These are the ones I bought from Summit. The site didn't indicate that the left and right mounts were different... discovered that today.

These are the ones I bought. They are much thinner than the ones that are currently in the car

Screenshot_20220326-194445_Gmail.jpg
 
Well got new gas gauge reading pretty good. Full is full. 1/2 is correct and empty is almost perfect. At least on the bench with a 5 volt power supply...

16483401195595338407159843128771.jpg
 
Well got new gas gauge reading pretty good. Full is full. 1/2 is correct and empty is almost perfect. At least on the bench with a 5 volt power supply...

View attachment 1715896274
That's great Tim!
Dana was testing using resistance, and also using a '67 tank which may be different enough to measure a little different.
 
Post your findings in the thread.

Dana traded me the A100 pickup he bought for my original that's missing the board.
I'm going to try to adapt it to a 3/8 pickup and outlet.
 
That's great Tim!
Dana was testing using resistance, and also using a '67 tank which may be different enough to measure a little different.
It's the last 1/4 tank that matter the most to me to be accurate......and that is the "dead' zone. not a lot of difference.... Gauge has 2 adjustments on it, and you can do some adjusting on the sending unit itself... This is assuming full up is full in the tank and straight out is half. And full down is empty. Seems rigjt

20220326_172644.jpg
 
Almost full down. Funny thing when full down empty there is still .831 volts at gauge..

20220326_173046.jpg


16483411949623274784173469751950.jpg


16483412179808641704067426005560.jpg
 
It's the last 1/4 tank that matter the most to me to be accurate......and that is the "dead' zone. not a lot of difference.... Gauge has 2 adjustments on it, and you can do some adjusting on the sending unit itself... This is assuming full up is full in the tank and straight out is half. And full down is empty. Seems rigjt

View attachment 1715896313
I don't how that works out on a '66. All (two, three?) measurements that were posted using a tank used a '67 up style.
The top portion is shaped fo the spare tire well.
 
That's great Tim!
Dana was testing using resistance, and also using a '67 tank which may be different enough to measure a little different.
It's the last 1/4 tank that matter the most to me to be accurate......and that is the "dead' zone. not a lot of difference.... Gauge has 2 adjustments on it, and you can do some adjusting on the sending unit itself...
 
I don't how that works out on a '66. All (two, three?) measurements that were posted using a tank used a '67 up style.
The top portion is shaped fo the spare tire well.
Well, gauge is not linear for sure...Like I said, the last 1/4 to me is the most important...
 
Now to take dash apart and replace the gauge. And drain the tank put in New sending unit....
 
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