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I am same exact thing even a bit cleaner actually. Only issue is it is clear. I add a quart of F in it to dye it. Do a search, most racers use it.
 
If you are serious about racing and safety, here is what I've been using. If you cannot afford a dedicated race car and want to do street/strip with the same vehicle, then this might be overkill:
I've been racing a 727 behind about 750 hp for 4 years now.
1. Ultimate bolt in sprag from A&A. Sprag is Weakest part of tranny. Approx $200
2. Hardened steel or billet aluminum drum from A&A. 2nd weakest part. Known to grenade if you break u-joint and overrev motor. About $700 for steel
3. Reverse pattern manual shift valve body, with or without low band apply. This also allows you to safely raise pump pressure a little for firmer shifts $250 ($1,000 with transbrake)
4. Don't run transmission fluid. Use #303 hydraulic fluid. Again firmer shift, less slippage. It's cheap at Tractor Supply. $25 for 5 gallon bucket.
5. A good SFI rated flexplate. ATI is a good brand. use ARP converter bolts and ARP crank to flexplate bolts. $125 for flexplate
6. 5500 stall 8" converter. Performance Torque Converters is the one I use. $700-900.
7. Transmission blanket or shield. $125-400.
8. A good transmission cooler with it's own fan. $150-750.
I have a small block case with as many big block internals as possible. 4 gear planetary, big pump. Don't know if you can do that with a 904.
As I said it's been raced about twice a month 9 months out of the year for 4 years. Had it taken apart 2 years ago and it didn't even need new clutches!

Quote Rep
 
The old stuff one car uses like a 1000 weight in the rear. Try to find that. LOL Matt has a 30 gallon drum of it! Kind of like a light grease.
 
halifaxhops said:
If you are serious about racing and safety, here is what I've been using. If you cannot afford a dedicated race car and want to do street/strip with the same vehicle, then this might be overkill:
I've been racing a 727 behind about 750 hp for 4 years now.
1. Ultimate bolt in sprag from A&A. Sprag is Weakest part of tranny. Approx $200
2. Hardened steel or billet aluminum drum from A&A. 2nd weakest part. Known to grenade if you break u-joint and overrev motor. About $700 for steel
3. Reverse pattern manual shift valve body, with or without low band apply. This also allows you to safely raise pump pressure a little for firmer shifts $250 ($1,000 with transbrake)
4. Don't run transmission fluid. Use #303 hydraulic fluid. Again firmer shift, less slippage. It's cheap at Tractor Supply. $25 for 5 gallon bucket.
5. A good SFI rated flexplate. ATI is a good brand. use ARP converter bolts and ARP crank to flexplate bolts. $125 for flexplate
6. 5500 stall 8" converter. Performance Torque Converters is the one I use. $700-900.
7. Transmission blanket or shield. $125-400.
8. A good transmission cooler with it's own fan. $150-750.
I have a small block case with as many big block internals as possible. 4 gear planetary, big pump. Don't know if you can do that with a 904.
As I said it's been raced about twice a month 9 months out of the year for 4 years. Had it taken apart 2 years ago and it didn't even need new clutches!

Quote Rep
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Well.. since i will probaby spent 7k and barely make 400hp :) I was figuring bolt in sprag and new parts to freshen and a tf-2 shift kit... i am trying to keep my pushbutton and auto so.. no reverse manual for me..
My challenger was a manual valve body and for daily driving at some point it just got irritating.

Still need to gather parts to convert to 24 spline before i worry about a converter, was just planning on 3500ish
 
Wow, talk about C body cars, those guys have little to no aftermarket support, put ten's of thousands of dollars in their restorations and the cars sell for $10,000 or less. It has to be a passion thing.
 
toolmanmike said:
Wow, talk about C body cars, those guys have little to no aftermarket support, put ten's of thousands of dollars in their restorations and the cars sell for $10,000 or less. It has to be a passion thing.
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I absolutely LOVE C-bodies.. i drove a 66 new yorker for like 10 years til the frame got too rusty :( And i was shocked looking at them.. super clean like 64 imperial for under 10k... just insanity. I would still love an Imperial..
 
toolmanmike said:
Wow, talk about C body cars, those guys have little to no aftermarket support, put ten's of thousands of dollars in their restorations and the cars sell for $10,000 or less. It has to be a passion thing.
Click to expand...
One customer has way over 200K in his real hemi car but used to race at Englishtown. Brought it back to stock. All work done by others also.
 
FISHYPETE said:
I hate to think about this when it’s time to thin the herd
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I'm not done with the car hobby yet but I will need to sell one or both of my cars so I can get another one. (which might be my last)
 
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