Stop in for a cup of coffee

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halifaxhops said:
In PA you do pay sales tax when you buy one.
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If its 5 grand we do, but below that, no sales taxes
Icetech said:
Love Comets... would like to have one someday...
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Mercury too, yep those long quarters and beuityful bodies, 66 and 65 knew what we as pony cars wanted, love them as well as the nova in those years
halifaxhops said:
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I don't see 300 bucks worth, seen these behind glass for 25 dollars here in Arkansas
 
Time to go, took tomorrow off to move daughter, getting her stuff and her El Camino out of the shop once it sells. Have a Great Day All!
 
Unconventional said:
Be careful out there
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5c58cef676be8.image.png
 
Watching a preview of sick summer today.. showed a really nice 69 dart that will be racing... (other than the grant GT wheel... hate that sooo much ) :)
 
Maxcustody said:
I am sure it is overkill but why not. The majority of driving will be in the summer, so heat should not be a problem and when I am running it on the track
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If you want thicker for overkill could pack it with grease like the @dukeboy_318 mentioned for the old powerwagons.

No?

That's my point.
Thicker is not better.
Better is the viscosity range that it splashes and sticks to the gears and maintains film strength and shear resistance while getting squeezed between the gears.

I do not know the heat generated in diffs while drag racing, but generally figure the factory selected grades after considerable testing.
Lets see if Direct Connection recommneded different.
 
Not seeing anything in a quick scan of the Chassis book. I'd trust somoneone like Dr Diff and anyone running stock eliminator. That's a game where every savings counts.
 
Mattax said:
If you want thicker for overkill could pack it with grease like the @dukeboy_318 mentioned for the old powerwagons.

No?

That's my point.
Thicker is not better.
Better is the viscosity range that it splashes and sticks to the gears and maintains film strength and shear resistance while getting squeezed between the gears.

I do not know the heat generated in diffs while drag racing, but generally figure the factory selected grades after considerable testing.
Lets see if Direct Connection recommneded different.
Click to expand...
Yep agreed.

Gale Banks has a great video showing this. They made stock diff covers and molds of popular aftermarket ones out of clear acrylic and stuck heat sensors in and put them on a dyno with a camera and a thermal camera showing how the various covers did with the various oils and such.

The conclusion was rather shocking. For example, the cover that kept the diff the coolest and had the best flow. The factory. And this was a consistent across various axle types. The Dana 60, the gym 14 bolt, the Dana 80 etc. Even over his own diff cover.

The conclusion was that unless one was running a pump, all the aftermarket covers that had capacity, the cooler oils stayed at the back of the cover and the rest basically whiplashed and aerated instead of cooling.

I’ll see if I can find the video but it definitely was cool
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Yep agreed.

Gale Banks has a great video showing this. They made stock diff covers and molds of popular aftermarket ones out of clear acrylic and stuck heat sensors in and put them on a dyno with a camera and a thermal camera showing how the various covers did with the various oils and such.

The conclusion was rather shocking. For example, the cover that kept the diff the coolest and had the best flow. The factory. And this was a consistent across various axle types. The Dana 60, the gym 14 bolt, the Dana 80 etc. Even over his own diff cover.

The conclusion was that unless one was running a pump, all the aftermarket covers that had capacity, the cooler oils stayed at the back of the cover and the rest basically whiplashed and aerated instead of cooling.

I’ll see if I can find the video but it definitely was cool
Click to expand...

:lol:

I do chuckle.... a lot of things are just like that.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Yep agreed.

Gale Banks has a great video showing this. They made stock diff covers and molds of popular aftermarket ones out of clear acrylic and stuck heat sensors in and put them on a dyno with a camera and a thermal camera showing how the various covers did with the various oils and such.

The conclusion was rather shocking. For example, the cover that kept the diff the coolest and had the best flow. The factory. And this was a consistent across various axle types. The Dana 60, the gym 14 bolt, the Dana 80 etc. Even over his own diff cover.

The conclusion was that unless one was running a pump, all the aftermarket covers that had capacity, the cooler oils stayed at the back of the cover and the rest basically whiplashed and aerated instead of cooling.

I’ll see if I can find the video but it definitely was cool
Click to expand...
If you find it, that would be cool.
Gale banks - an expert before there was youtube! :thumbsup:



Here's a gear oil viscosity graph from Richard Widman.
Similar to motor oil, the non W grades are spec'd at 100 C (212*F).
So a 140 is about twice as viscous as a 90 at 212 F.
What is most interesting is the viscosity below 212 F, especially the multi-grades.
1685972290147.png

Keep in mind 90 is the thickest grade Chrysler spec'd before good multi-weights were on the market.

From here

Gear oil graphs | Widman International SRL

www.widman.biz www.widman.biz

He also has a white paper on the differences in GL4 vs GL5

Oil selection | Widman International SRL

www.widman.biz www.widman.biz
 
Last edited:
www.forabodiesonly.com

[SOLD] - 273 high performance commando engine for sale $1000 obo

This original engine came out of a 1967 rust red Plymouth barracuda fastback. Unfortunately the original car burned in a garage fire with a 340 engine that my father had put in for kicks. It was my dads car and I was hoping to find another rust free body for the 273 but just don’t have the time...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
Quick question... when i was power washing i popped my core plugs out and was surprised how much garbage i cleaned out of my water jackets...got new brass plugs to put in, is indian head ok on those or should i use something else?
 
Mattax said:
If you want thicker for overkill could pack it with grease like the @dukeboy_318 mentioned for the old powerwagons.

No?

That's my point.
Thicker is not better.
Better is the viscosity range that it splashes and sticks to the gears and maintains film strength and shear resistance while getting squeezed between the gears.

I do not know the heat generated in diffs while drag racing, but generally figure the factory selected grades after considerable testing.
Lets see if Direct Connection recommneded different.
Click to expand...

Mattax said:
Not seeing anything in a quick scan of the Chassis book. I'd trust somoneone like Dr Diff and anyone running stock eliminator. That's a game where every savings counts.
Click to expand...

dukeboy_318 said:
Yep agreed.

Gale Banks has a great video showing this. They made stock diff covers and molds of popular aftermarket ones out of clear acrylic and stuck heat sensors in and put them on a dyno with a camera and a thermal camera showing how the various covers did with the various oils and such.

The conclusion was rather shocking. For example, the cover that kept the diff the coolest and had the best flow. The factory. And this was a consistent across various axle types. The Dana 60, the gym 14 bolt, the Dana 80 etc. Even over his own diff cover.

The conclusion was that unless one was running a pump, all the aftermarket covers that had capacity, the cooler oils stayed at the back of the cover and the rest basically whiplashed and aerated instead of cooling.

I’ll see if I can find the video but it definitely was cool
Click to expand...

Mattax said:
If you find it, that would be cool.
Gale banks - an expert before there was youtube! :thumbsup:



Here's a gear oil viscosity graph from Richard Widman.
Similar to motor oil, the non W grades are spec'd at 100 C (212*F).
So a 140 is about twice as viscous as a 90 at 212 F.
What is most interesting is the viscosity below 212 F, especially the multi-grades.
View attachment 1716098441
Keep in mind 90 is the thickest grade Chrysler spec'd before good multi-weights were on the market.

From here
[/URL]

He also has a white paper on the differences in GL4 vs GL5
[/URL]
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I appreciate the feedback and information……so 75 90 is recommended and what I should be using?
 
Maxcustody said:
I appreciate the feedback and information……so 75 90 is recommended and what I should be using?
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90 was the factory for over 10*F, so 75W-90 would probably be the best modern equivalent.
Might see what Dr Diff or some others have to say but the 140 seems really high viscosity in comparison.
As a tribute car it has to do street and strip, and I assume your not tearing down after every event or two. That's one aspect about engine racing oils people seem to ignore when they use them on the street.
 
Mattax said:
90 was the factory for over 10*F, so 75W-90 would probably be the best modern equivalent.
Might see what Dr Diff or some others have to say but the 140 seems really high viscosity in comparison.
As a tribute car it has to do street and strip, and I assume your not tearing down after every event or two. That's one aspect about engine racing oils people seem to ignore when they use them on the street.
Click to expand...
Yeah email Cass at dr diff. Cass is THE subject matter expert. No offense to Matt as mat is very knowledgeable as well. But Cass has been dealing with these things on a daily basis and that’s why he’s Dr Diff. Outside of this forum , he’s one of the very few I’d trust in anything Mopar
 
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