The OEM closed field (round back) alternators were iffy. If sufficientt ground was found through mounting hardware a actual ground wire wasn't needed but recommended.
Not sure what year they went to black behind the grille but mine was body color.. my frame rails under the flange were also body color (can't see it in that pic though)You're Welcome!
If you want to spice it up. Frame rails were black under the flange (sides) and also radiator support area viewed from the front.
All electric circuits need a way to return to ground.
They're all single field.
Really. 99% of the devices ground through their housings.
The alternator output returns through the housing. Doesn't matter if the field terminals and rotor are isolated.
Chrysler didn't bother and it worked fine.
Need to use screws with heads or washers that bite in.
Good Mornin!
And most of them will be gone.
I'm going to be using the 1962 headlights and no other real electronics.. so if i can get the stock alternator working i will be ok with it
sounds odd but trying to keep some things as stock as possible cause my brain is stupid
I hope so. The sun kits usually sell fast. What I got going is they are all calibrated. Have a bunch of Snap on ones in the metal cases also. Tach/dwell and also a couple of cylender kill meters to boot. Couple of heathkit scopes. Lot of 6VDC meters, yes the dwell read different and a 12VDC meter is way off.
That wasn't a year model thing. It depends on how much body color paint shows through the grill(s). Even then they didn't bother to mask and properly paint the entire core support. They simply shot some black at areas where the body color would show through the grill(s).
I honestly thought they were all body color on the lower frame and front of the core support... My 71 challenger was the same way.. seems odd to me to not body color behind the grille
yeah... the bastard of all bastards.. i had no idea they were a 1 year car when i bought it so there are NO parts at all.. plus my k-frame/motor and trans mount are 61.... motor mounts are $800 a pair which will never happen
Roy and Jamie can probably fix you up. Roy is an old early B body guy. Mega Parts USA - Reproduction, NOS and Used Mopar Muscle Car PartsWish i could hit carlisle.. only need a few things though.. M/T valve covers... and i would kill for a 1965 727 for the tailshaft/slip yoke but that's not gonna happen. and some rims.. so meh... will be at work as normal
BTW.. in the pic above the wiring harness is held in by push in holders, not sure if they used those in A-bodies, need to get some though.. any idea on what to search for?
Have a pic?Wish i could hit carlisle.. only need a few things though.. M/T valve covers... and i would kill for a 1965 727 for the tailshaft/slip yoke but that's not gonna happen. and some rims.. so meh... will be at work as normal
Yeah, i have seen them from $75 to $350 which blows my mind... there is a set of what looks like brand new Weiand aluminum ones bout a hour from me for $125 but they won't clear my rockers.. i'm not sure the M/T's will either but they are my favorite VCs
The radiator support? 67 up those are welded metal butterflies. Bend each end to capture the cables.Wish i could hit carlisle.. only need a few things though.. M/T valve covers... and i would kill for a 1965 727 for the tailshaft/slip yoke but that's not gonna happen. and some rims.. so meh... will be at work as normal
BTW.. in the pic above the wiring harness is held in by push in holders, not sure if they used those in A-bodies, need to get some though.. any idea on what to search for?
Yup, just found them
I should have searched first... i can't recall ever being this tired before... i think 2 hours of paint fumes fucked me up.. even with a mask on it's all i can smell still. thank god it wasn't imron
The grille is so fine you can't see body color through it.
yeah, but i know it's there
