Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Cheap bad or cheap inexpensive??
I know you likely already realize but Fred has forgot more about paint and body work than most folks know! He sat in my shop and walked me thru removing my inner fenders and front support sheet metal. Then guided me thru hanging back all new ill fitting replacements! Slash grind weld and repeat! I got done and the thing was actually straighter and more square than it came from the factory. I was appalled at how out of symmetry it was from factory. Apparently that is normal I just had no idea since what I know about body work would not fill a coffee cup!
 
Date night. Well sort of.
Just pulled these out the oven . Waiting on the Veggies while they cool down.
The Brownie lady is bringing Dessert.

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I know you likely already realize but Fred has forgot more about paint and body work than most folks know! He sat in my shop and walked me thru removing my inner fenders and front support sheet metal. Then guided me thru hanging back all new ill fitting replacements! Slash grind weld and repeat! I got done and the thing was actually straighter and more square than it came from the factory. I was appalled at how out of symmetry it was from factory. Apparently that is normal I just had no idea since what I know about body work would not fill a coffee cup!

I do realize... that's why I'm highly interested in his thoughts. Way too many smart people in here. It's a great help
 
Cheap bad or cheap inexpensive??
You got good paint and clear as far as I'm concerned the only thing that might be a problem is what you got under the paint in the way of primer? or Sealer, epoxy or etch primer. If it isn't done right then the paint no matter how good will not hold out. Just my 2 cents Chris.
 
You got good paint and clear as far as I'm concerned the only thing that might be a problem is what you got under the paint in the way of primer? or Sealer, epoxy or etch primer. If it isn't done right then the paint no matter how good will not hold out. Just my 2 cents Chris.
Here is where I was going...

I went down the rabbit hole on urethane versus epoxy versus poly primers.... and my face melted off.

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I know you likely already realize but Fred has forgot more about paint and body work than most folks know! He sat in my shop and walked me thru removing my inner fenders and front support sheet metal. Then guided me thru hanging back all new ill fitting replacements! Slash grind weld and repeat! I got done and the thing was actually straighter and more square than it came from the factory. I was appalled at how out of symmetry it was from factory. Apparently that is normal I just had no idea since what I know about body work would not fill a coffee cup!
**** John the only reason your core support and inner fenders were right is because you made sure it was perfect I'd be happy with a 1/8 or even a 1/4 off.
 
Well you guys talk shop. It's party night here.
Chicken Cordon Bleu and Broccoli
Later.

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Dang, I forgot to pick up some fresh sweet corn today. I have some bacon wrapped pork medallions for the grill. I need to come up with a good veggie. That broccoli looks delicious. A little Parmesan on top?
 
Here is where I was going...

I went down the rabbit hole on urethane versus epoxy versus poly primers.... and my face melted off.

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Never tried that brand but If you take all the paint off then you need to use epoxy primer on bare metal. Some spots of bare metal with the primer you used is fine.
 
Yeah. There's one spot about 2 inches square where the sheet metal is exposed
No problem But you can't put paint over that without putting more primer on it. Ya can't put paint over bare metal and sealer before paint is the only way to make sure you cover all the bare metal.
Not much of trying to explain but hate to see you have to redo it.
 
No problem But you can't put paint over that without putting more primer on it. Ya can't put paint over bare metal and sealer before paint is the only way to make sure you cover all the bare metal.
Not much of trying to explain but hate to see you have to redo it.

Thanks...

So if I do a few coats of a self-etching primer over the bare spot, then the entire engine bay with the Urethane primer... that'll be decent bonding surface?

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Thanks...

So if I do a few coats of a self-etching primer over the bare spot, then the entire engine bay with the Urethane primer... that'll be decent bonding surface?

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Not sure of the picture you sent but self etching primer is great for small areas of bare metal before the primer but not on painted surfaces.
It's an acid base etch.
That a rust hole with the red circle?
 
Not sure of the picture you sent but self etching primer is great for small areas of bare metal before the primer but not on painted surfaces.
It's an acid base etch.
That a rust hole with the red circle?

No .. it's good sheetmetal. Looks like something was dropped at some point and chipped the paint. There's no rust (though it's dirty... haven't started on it yet)

It's top of the fender well. That plug is where the headlight wiring runs

I feel like that whole area will need to be stripped to avoid the footprint of the chip
 
No .. it's good sheetmetal. Looks like something was dropped at some point and chipped the paint. There's no rust (though it's dirty... haven't started on it yet)

It's top of the fender well. That plug is where the headlight wiring runs

I feel like that whole area will need to be stripped to avoid the footprint of the chip
I'm just a backyard body man I just do what I know from experience but knowing of all the contaminants under the hood of our old cars getting into the paint and the battery acid and everything I stripped mine to metal and started over.
Seemed to be simpler in the long run.
 
I'm just a backyard body man I just do what I know from experience but knowing of all the contaminants under the hood of our old cars getting into the paint and the battery acid and everything I stripped mine to metal and started over.
Seemed to be simpler in the long run.

The bulkhead was a mess from the master cylinder, but I got that all cleaned up when I did the brake install. Most of the rest is decent. It's been redone at least once before as the battery is in the trunk. The initial cleanup will tell, but I'll probably lean toward stripping in some areas. I want it to last.
 
The bulkhead was a mess from the master cylinder, but I got that all cleaned up when I did the brake install. Most of the rest is decent. It's been redone at least once before as the battery is in the trunk. The initial cleanup will tell, but I'll probably lean toward stripping in some areas. I want it to last.
I want it to last for you as well and looks like you got it figured out.
 
:lol:

I have exactly squat figured out.... but I'll give it a try. Appreciate your insights Fred

:thumbsup:
Think I caused more problems just in the engine bay but real hard from just a picture and actually being there. Hope the best there buddy.
 
Received my County, personal property tax bill today. First one I've received. Apparently they do straight depreciation on vehicles.
Tax value of the Valiant is $300.
Annual taxes are $0.52.

Can't complain
 
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