Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Just ordered another pair of rear spring perches... in my normal fashion i'm going to redo something i did 3 weeks ago.. I need to learn to get it right the first time
 
Icetech said:
Just ordered another pair of rear spring perches... in my normal fashion i'm going to redo something i did 3 weeks ago.. I need to learn to get it right the first time
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Mo fun in that. Doing body work, and a few beers, looks great! Get up in the morning. Good god! Have to redo it. More then one time this happens
 
Mopar Tim said:
Mo fun in that. Doing body work, and a few beers, looks great! Get up in the morning. Good god! Have to redo it. More then one time this happens
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god i don't even wanna think of bodywork :( i'm very close to starting on that...

I did my perches a few weeks ago and somehow got the axle bout 3/8" offset (i thought i was smart doing 1 side at a time, nope) so this time i will do both at the same time and actually measure backplate to spring. and even fit the tires to check clearance... thinking smart :)

I have a nasty vibration in 2nd gear ( on jack stands) and i'm 99% sure i have too much negative pinion, not sure how much would be needed to cause that though
 
WV64Signet said:
Yeah...
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This house is the worst hodge podged, rule skirting I’ve ever seen. None of the wiring is to code, the plumbing looks like someone robbed a travel trailer from the 1960s and mixed it with cpvc and brass pipes.

The shower valve handle broke today. Stripped. Open the back panel, sure as there is sun, they used 1/4 inch CPVC with a bunch of reducers to the valve and out of the valve. Enough cement to supply half the county. And this handle is so old no one at 5 stores in town has anything that’ll work. So my only option is to tear it all out, and buy a new valve plus head and handle.

So I’m trying the redneck solution first… JB Weld… I just need to get through until fall when I hopefully can start on the new house
 
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dukeboy440 said:
This house is the worst hodge podged, rule skirting I’ve ever seen. None of the wiring is to code, the plumbing looks like someone robbed a travel trailer from the 1960s and mixed it with cpvc and brass pipes.

The shower valve handle broke today. Stripped. Open the back panel, sure as there is sun, they used 1/4 inch CPVC with a bunch of reducers to the valve and out of the valve. Enough cement to supply half the county. And this handle is so old no one at 5 stores in town has anything that’ll work. So my only option is to tear it all out, and buy a new valve plus head and handle.

So I’m trying the redneck solution first… JB Weld… I just need to get through until fall when I hopefully can start on the new house
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There's nothing "Free"

No good deed goes unpunished


Yup
 
Icetech said:
god i don't even wanna think of bodywork :( i'm very close to starting on that...

I did my perches a few weeks ago and somehow got the axle bout 3/8" offset (i thought i was smart doing 1 side at a time, nope) so this time i will do both at the same time and actually measure backplate to spring. and even fit the tires to check clearance... thinking smart :)

I have a nasty vibration in 2nd gear ( on jack stands) and i'm 99% sure i have too much negative pinion, not sure how much would be needed to cause that though
Click to expand...
That's the easy part doing body work. You'll do fine just let me know when you start and I can help.
 
Frodee said:
That's the easy part doing body work. You'll do fine just let me know when you start and I can help.
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Hell i wish you were local..i hate bodywork soo much :) i just have to do the fenders and lower quarters, all metal work is done, filler and sanding needed.. hoping the paint matches close enough that i can live with it
 
Icetech said:
Hell i wish you were local..i hate bodywork soo much :) i just have to do the fenders and lower quarters, all metal work is done, filler and sanding needed.. hoping the paint matches close enough that i can live with it
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Don't, whatever you do buy cheap bondo. It will cost you more in sandpaper and shoulder pain than it's worth.
Keep me posted and I'll help as much as I can. Not sure how much you know so forgive me if I sound like you don't know much.
 
Frodee said:
Don't, whatever you do buy cheap bondo. It will cost you more in sandpaper and shoulder pain than it's worth.
Keep me posted and I'll help as much as I can. Not sure how much you know so forgive me if I sound like you don't know much.
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Naw..i know a bit. but not pro mode. i'm a hack.. i got duraglas to rough in and was just gonna use top glaze over that (i got reducer for the duraglas to thin it so it spreads nicer) btw.. not sure if it's duraglas brand.. but fiber reinforced fillter
 
Frodee said:
Don't, whatever you do buy cheap bondo. It will cost you more in sandpaper and shoulder pain than it's worth.
Keep me posted and I'll help as much as I can. Not sure how much you know so forgive me if I sound like you don't know much.
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What body filler do you recommend
 
dukeboy440 said:
This house is the worst hodge podged, rule skirting I’ve ever seen. None of the wiring is to code, the plumbing looks like someone robbed a travel trailer from the 1960s and mixed it with cpvc and brass pipes.

The shower valve handle broke today. Stripped. Open the back panel, sure as there is sun, they used 1/4 inch CPVC with a bunch of reducers to the valve and out of the valve. Enough cement to supply half the county. And this handle is so old no one at 5 stores in town has anything that’ll work. So my only option is to tear it all out, and buy a new valve plus head and handle.

So I’m trying the redneck solution first… JB Weld… I just need to get through until fall when I hopefully can start on the new house
Click to expand...
Well…. Red neck solution failed
 
Icetech said:
Naw..i know a bit. but not pro mode. i'm a hack.. i got duraglas to rough in and was just gonna use top glaze over that (i got reducer for the duraglas to thin it so it spreads nicer) btw.. not sure if it's duraglas brand.. but fiber reinforced fillter
Click to expand...
Duraglas is hard to sand and I use it on the low spots and edges, then use Evercoat mud over that and then glaze if needed.
1st coat I sand with 36 grit then go to 80 and then 180. If you let the bondo dry to long on the first layer it gets to hard to sand. Let it get almost dry then hit it with 36 grit. If it's still to green it will gum up the sand paper and not be able to clean it out to easy.
Makes a big difference in wearing out sand paper and arms.
 
I got the duraglas/reducer idea from watching bad chad... who i can't watch anymore cause... reasons but the guy can spread mud
 
Frodee said:
Duraglas is hard to sand and I use it on the low spots and edges, then use Evercoat mud over that and then glaze if needed.
1st coat I sand with 36 grit then go to 80 and then 180. If you let the bondo dry to long on the first layer it gets to hard to sand. Let it get almost dry then hit it with 36 grit. If it's still to green it will gum up the sand paper and not be able to clean it out to easy.
Makes a big difference in wearing out sand paper and arms.
Click to expand...
yeah it's that experience that makes the difference.. I do bondo like i do drywall mud... put it on.. sand it off... put it on again.. sand if off.. til i get pissed and say **** it :)
 
Trying to help a guy with his hood hinges. Lift struts. Showed him my install. Of course he is going to do it different.
 
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