Stop in for a cup of coffee

-
You said PULL!:rofl:
Cool thought that was a good one you and Mitch are the only ones that have tried it, just used one the other day off the car to test those clusters I pulled, love that thing!
 
Raul said:
I know the circuit is good because the needle starts at C and slowly creeps up to H.
Other than that. I don't know much. In the winter, it stays at operating temp. 1/3 climb of needle. In the summer it goes to H. I use a heat sensor gun and it registers about 165 degrees without a thermostat and 185 with a 180 degree thermostat. But the temp gauge reflects engine is overheating. :(
Click to expand...
ok - gotta ask the obvious question then - are you SURE you have the correct amount of antifreeze vs. H2O in there? and are you sure you have good flow throughout?
 
Raul said:
yes
Click to expand...
Take the lead off the sending unit when it is cold read the ohms it should be around 73, warm it up 23 is the half point and ten is hot, if it goes right to ten at running temperatere call it 180 it is a bad sending unit. Understand it?
 
So what about that relay or diode, I read somewhere in the past that there is an electronic piece associated to the temp gauge that if it goes bad will affect temp readings. Anyone know what I'm referring to. It's suppose to be attached to the dash panel near the temp gauge
 
I hate that, the tach set up my kid got me is off drives me nuts, cannot find the right sending unit for it.
 
Raul said:
So what about that relay or diode, I read somewhere in the past that there is an electronic piece associated to the temp gauge that if it goes bad will affect temp readings. Anyone know what I'm referring to. It's suppose to be attached to the dash panel near the temp gauge
Click to expand...
Karl? I am thinking that is the voltage limiter you are talking about it controls the temp, gas and oil gauges if the other two are fine it is ok.
 
Just pop in and let us know what happens, pretty much there will be some one here to help, WE ARE THE HELPLINE!:bs_flag::rofl:
 
halifaxhops said:
You said PULL!:rofl:
Cool thought that was a good one you and Mitch are the only ones that have tried it, just used one the other day off the car to test those clusters I pulled, love that thing!
Click to expand...

I tried it on a gauge before I sent it back to you and it worked with the dial/rheostat, just the H-M-L did not go for some reason...


And I picked the word "pull" on purpose....

Now another pun (pick and pull)....
 
halifaxhops said:
Karl? I am thinking that is the voltage limiter you are talking about it controls the temp, gas and oil gauges if the other two are fine it is ok.
Click to expand...
Yes, the voltage limiter; well the oil pressure gauge is on the high end too but I was thinking that was because of the high pressure/volume oil pump installed. Fuel gauge is fine
 
Hey we could be the helpline Karl with Small blocks, Scampy with radiator supports, Chris with, well I better not post it, and me with just general mischief!
 
Raul said:
Yes, the voltage limiter; well the oil pressure gauge is on the high end too but I was thinking that was because of the high pressure/volume oil pump installed. Fuel gauge is fine
Click to expand...
That makes sense, I would test the sender first and go from there no sense throwing parts at it.
 
halifaxhops said:
I hate that, the tach set up my kid got me is off drives me nuts, cannot find the right sending unit for it.
Click to expand...

Eddie bought a factory tach that mounts to the console and it reads off...

He was reading somewhere that there is a way to "recalibrate" it so it will read correctly...

Maybe we can get @Eddie348 in here to see if he can remember what it was or give us a link on how to get the tach to read correctly...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top