Stop in for a cup of coffee

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The local guy by me just gave me the forms did not deal with them, use him for stuff all the time.
 
Like these?

hoppyland.jpg
 
halifaxhops said:
The local guy by me just gave me the forms did not deal with them, use him for stuff all the time.
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So, what are you supposed to do with the forms? I need to look up see if there is another place nearby that has plates. I know there is a 'drivers licence center' on Queen St near York, but don't know if they do anything with registration.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
no, chris went to work...

Here's the thing about this whole drum to disc thing. First, I have everything, brand new except for the A body spindles already from my dart. I'm not using those now because of the Gerst suspension and the brakes it came with. So the stuff, new master cylinder, new pads, rotors, calibers, hoses and dust shields along with new wheel bearings are sitting in a box collecting dust. Spindles run about 100 bucks on here when they pop up. so at most, I'd have 100 bucks in them. To rebuild the front drums with all new parts. It'd cost me 230 bucks plus shipping from rock auto. So I may as well use what I have already on hand, just spend the 100-150 for spindles and have upgraded brakes while saving a few bucks. Bolt pattern is the same, both 5x4.5 so the wheels work either way.

Now that's front only, the rear will stay drum and be rebuilt as I'd have to convert the axle from the tapered axles to a post 66 axle which means close to a grand or more. So the drums win out back as the cost for the rear stuff is about 150 bucks. plus the new parking brake cable which i'll have to source.
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You still on that kick? For the Polara? Have you run the numbers? What's that thing weigh? What's the swept area and diameter of the drums? Don't go throwing some disks on just 'cause you got them. You really want disks on that car, make sure they are going to be big enough to do the job. Compare the leverage on the brake master compared to an a-body, because that's going to impact the force needed from you foot on the pedal. Going straight to disk, its going to require a lot more force. Going to booster with disk, you want it not too sensitve or you'll lock up 'em up too easy. Then at least a prop valve, and maybe a hoild-off valve on the front like they did on the B-bodies early 70s. Those reduce front lock up on ice.
Try not to be another one of those guys in the Brakes subforum who don't understand what they did - 'cause we're talking brakes here - a little more important than most other modifications. Sorry for the hard talk man - I wait its coffee thread - I don't need to be. :D
 
zkx14 said:
So, what are you supposed to do with the forms? I need to look up see if there is another place nearby that has plates. I know there is a 'drivers licence center' on Queen St near York, but don't know if they do anything with registration.
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Go to the state website'cause I don't remember either. I *think* I switched my NJ title and registration using the Penndot's drivers license center. Everthing else, its always been through a title place or AAA. Or you can go to Harrisburg.
Washington's birthday - PA offices sure ought to be closed.
 
zkx14 said:
So, what are you supposed to do with the forms? I need to look up see if there is another place nearby that has plates. I know there is a 'drivers licence center' on Queen St near York, but don't know if they do anything with registration.
Click to expand...
They just do lisences have one by me, prob have to go to a pendot to walk away with the plates, make sure you bring the title with you that's why I do not have them yet took all the stuff listed on the form and they wanted the title also.
 
halifaxhops said:
They just do lisences have one by me, prob have to go to a pendot to walk away with the plates, make sure you bring the title with you that's why I do not have them yet took all the stuff listed on the form and they wanted the title also.
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And here we also need to bring proof of insurance.
 
Mattax said:
Go to the state website'cause I don't remember either. I *think* I switched my NJ title and registration using the Penndot's drivers license center. Everthing else, its always been through a title place or AAA. Or you can go to Harrisburg.
Washington's birthday - PA offices sure ought to be closed.
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Crap, forgot -Prez Day. I think I will just do Runkles and wait for my plate. I usually just sign the form after they fill everything out. :thumbsup: Just too easy. Lol. But, If they are even open, they probably can't do it today either. It needs to run through the state's system. :BangHead:
 
I had the reggie, insurance and the form the form just listed that to mail it in, I was quite pissed off to say the least.
 
zkx14 said:
Crap, forgot -Prez Day. I think I will just do Runkles and wait for my plate. I usually just sign the form after they fill everything out. :thumbsup: Just too easy. Lol. But, If they are even open, they probably can't do it today either. It needs to run through the state's system. :BangHead:
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Might be easier just to get to the Burg and do it straight shot for ya then it is done title and all. Pluss no fees.
 
Mattax said:
You still on that kick? For the Polara? Have you run the numbers? What's that thing weigh? What's the swept area and diameter of the drums? Don't go throwing some disks on just 'cause you got them. You really want disks on that car, make sure they are going to be big enough to do the job. Compare the leverage on the brake master compared to an a-body, because that's going to impact the force needed from you foot on the pedal. Going straight to disk, its going to require a lot more force. Going to booster with disk, you want it not too sensitve or you'll lock up 'em up too easy. Then at least a prop valve, and maybe a hoild-off valve on the front like they did on the B-bodies early 70s. Those reduce front lock up on ice.
Try not to be another one of those guys in the Brakes subforum who don't understand what they did - 'cause we're talking brakes here - a little more important than most other modifications. Sorry for the hard talk man - I wait its coffee thread - I don't need to be. :D
Click to expand...

You bring up valid questions and points. I appreciate it. I shall try to answer them.

You still on that kick? For the Polara? Have you run the numbers? What's that thing weigh? What's the swept area and diameter of the drums? Tikey brought it up again, so I decided to explain my thought process. First, the polara currently has 9 inch front drums. A little known fact is that the 73-76 A body disc setups use the exact same caliber, the exact same rotor, same ball joint, same upper control arm and same spindle as the much heavier B body cars. The only X factor is that on certain year B Bodies, the hose lengths are a tad different in length. Not a big deal.

As for the weight of the 64 Polara vs the weight of the A body this came off is surprising, the 64 polara 4 door curb weight as mine is optioned, 3263 lbs, the 74 Dart weighs 3315,
(numbers from the FSM) granted the dart had full power everything as the polara is all manual. Surely the 10.95 inch rotors will stop the polara better than the 9 inch drums.

I have all those valves and even an adjustable one if I need it. I will be be going from single manual master cylinder to a dual, power master cylinder. I'm actually following a long posted sticky on the subject on Moparts, which is where I learned it all interchanges. However, because I too was skeptical, I went and verified each via Chrysler's own parts catalogs from 1974.
 
Dam think the tread is messed up went from 331 to 333, not good here we go again!
 
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