Stop in for a cup of coffee

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No, we didn't need it as had a very solid offer that was 10K over asking. Could have still had the open house but first offer would have expired, then there were the chances that it wouldn't appraise if it went much higher so we accepted it. Now I've got to get my Duster out of there or it "goes with the house".
 
Wife is dragging me out later today to look at a house. The only reason I agreed, well two, first one makes her happy, second there is a 4000ft outbuilding behind the house. Talk about a shop...hell I can live there.:D
 
No, we didn't need it as had a very solid offer that was 10K over asking. Could have still had the open house but first offer would have expired, then there were the chances that it wouldn't appraise if it went much higher so we accepted it. Now I've got to get my Duster out of there or it "goes with the house".
Great all that hard work paid off.
 
No, we didn't need it as had a very solid offer that was 10K over asking. Could have still had the open house but first offer would have expired, then there were the chances that it wouldn't appraise if it went much higher so we accepted it. Now I've got to get my Duster out of there or it "goes with the house".
N ice to here it worked out now get off your *** and get the car rolling!
 
Man I hope the weather breaks for Carlisle. It always is hot there but this would really suck!
 
Tell her the extra 10k could be for the Duster fund.....
 
Thanks and no kidding, car hasn't been too low on the priority list. Wow a 4k sq ft building, that's a lot of real estate. Shop, man cave, dog house.
 
First owner had kids that were good basketball players so it was a full court basketball court. This guy's kids plays baseball so it has astro turf and a batting cage.
 
Yesterday I got the A arm mounted and then could NOT get the torsion bar in. So went to Drivers side where the A arm wasn't even connected to the frame, couldn't get that one in either. I know I have them on the correct sides. So today I go back with a bigger pry bar. I have adjusters backed all the way out, may remove bump stops even though I don't see them contacting.
 
Yesterday I got the A arm mounted and then could NOT get the torsion bar in. So went to Drivers side where the A arm wasn't even connected to the frame, couldn't get that one in either. I know I have them on the correct sides. So today I go back with a bigger pry bar. I have adjusters backed all the way out, may remove bump stops even though I don't see them contacting.
Should just slide in pretty easy. I would not ne prying on them to hard. They the right bars?
 
Yesterday I got the A arm mounted and then could NOT get the torsion bar in. So went to Drivers side where the A arm wasn't even connected to the frame, couldn't get that one in either. I know I have them on the correct sides. So today I go back with a bigger pry bar. I have adjusters backed all the way out, may remove bump stops even though I don't see them contacting.
This may sound dumb but could you try flipping the torsion bars around and seeing if the other end goes in easier? Not sure that it matters but just an idea
 
Bars are 892 and 893, have the "L" going into the drivers side. Heard which end goes where doesn't matter, only side to side, put the "slot" vertical. I will try that tho.
 
They should be the ones for it. Weird. Hey when you backed off the adjusters did the hex part come loose and shift? Could be rusted in had that on the dart.
 
Oh yeah make sure the hex is lined up right

Of course it will go through in the rear, but when it meets he hex at the LCA, it's off and it's closer to force the control arm down. I was prying on the "finger" and pulling/standing on the arm. Tough to do by myself but that's what I have for now. May have to buy some beer HA!!!
 
They should be the ones for it. Weird. Hey when you backed off the adjusters did the hex part come loose and shift? Could be rusted in had that on the dart.

No there was no shift. I gave this K frame to Les Schwab, they rebuilt it entirely. THEN I slobbered POR 15 all over it, looks like ****. Maybe it's gummed up from my high quality paint job : ) Is it safe to grab the hex with a pipe wrench or something softer and try to free it?
 
They have to be free to move. That's what the adjuster does is shift the hex. Been a while but that arm the adjuster hits should be able to move. I hit mine with appliance paint, sucked getting them free after that.
 
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