Not usually that prob has a solid core wires you check the points and especially the condenser? The new condensers suck.
Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
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dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
points look new. I'm not sure how to check the condenser. Wonder if that sun book would tell me
I might have the points and a condenser would need a picture though don't have a book on them though. Bunch of assorted stuff prob 1940-70
Should have a multi meter?
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
I do?
I should make this a how to thread. I have a condenser tester but I do it daily this will work for you. This is for a analog meter but a digital works you will see the voltage spike.
1.) Remove the condenser from the engine (or at least disconnect the lead wire). Note the small metal connector located on the end of the condenser. This connector is the "hot" or power connection. The metal case of the condenser is the grounding point. Discharge the condenser by shorting the lead wire to the case.
2.) Switch the meter to the ohms position. Place the red lead into the "ohm" connector on the meter. Insert the black lead into the "com" or common connector on the meter. Set the resistance range to the highest available setting (if it is selectable). Connect the test leads together and zero the meter. If the meter won't zero replace the battery. (Yes, an ohm meter has a battery).
3.) Touch the red lead to the hot connector on the condenser. Place the black lead to the metal case on the condenser. The meter's needle should jump slightly to the right (toward 0-ohms), then should drop back to the left towards infinite resistance). Hold the leads in place for 15 to 20 seconds. This action places charge in the condenser. If the test shows any reading other than infinity, the condenser is leaking and needs to be replaced.
4.) Remove the leads and reverse the placement to the condenser. Move the red lead from the hot connector to the metal case, and move the black lead from the metal case to the hot connector. At the moment where both leads are touching the correct points, the meter should jump towards the right. The second time the needle may move twice as far, as this action discharges the condenser. Holding the leads in contact should again result in movement of the needle back toward infinite resistance.
5.) Movement of the meter's needle indicates the condenser is good. If no movement was indicated on the meter in any circumstance, the condenser is bad and must be replaced. Retest the condenser several times for a consistent reading.
1.) Remove the condenser from the engine (or at least disconnect the lead wire). Note the small metal connector located on the end of the condenser. This connector is the "hot" or power connection. The metal case of the condenser is the grounding point. Discharge the condenser by shorting the lead wire to the case.
2.) Switch the meter to the ohms position. Place the red lead into the "ohm" connector on the meter. Insert the black lead into the "com" or common connector on the meter. Set the resistance range to the highest available setting (if it is selectable). Connect the test leads together and zero the meter. If the meter won't zero replace the battery. (Yes, an ohm meter has a battery).
3.) Touch the red lead to the hot connector on the condenser. Place the black lead to the metal case on the condenser. The meter's needle should jump slightly to the right (toward 0-ohms), then should drop back to the left towards infinite resistance). Hold the leads in place for 15 to 20 seconds. This action places charge in the condenser. If the test shows any reading other than infinity, the condenser is leaking and needs to be replaced.
4.) Remove the leads and reverse the placement to the condenser. Move the red lead from the hot connector to the metal case, and move the black lead from the metal case to the hot connector. At the moment where both leads are touching the correct points, the meter should jump towards the right. The second time the needle may move twice as far, as this action discharges the condenser. Holding the leads in contact should again result in movement of the needle back toward infinite resistance.
5.) Movement of the meter's needle indicates the condenser is good. If no movement was indicated on the meter in any circumstance, the condenser is bad and must be replaced. Retest the condenser several times for a consistent reading.
Much easier
Breakfast
Sea Scallops and Bacon
Fresh Strawberries
Sea Scallops and Bacon
Fresh Strawberries
joshcook81
Well-Known Member
So I get to work and I pop the hood to find my electric water pump is leaking from one of the bolts that bolt it together :-( hopefully there’s a gasket or o ring I can just replace.
Nice Mitch!
Never messed with them leaking from the motor?
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
Thanks @halifaxhops
joshcook81
Well-Known Member
Just Around the housing, but never from the water pump itself.. it’s really not that old so first time with this problem.
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
looks for tiny cracks around the screw opening. I'm not sure what brand you have, but I've had issues with proform electric water pumps leaking on my old 451. Took a magnifying class to see that there were cracks that opened up when the screw was torqued down, allowing water to seep.
Pertronics conversion would be good here. More dwell.
For a tractor they make them?
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
they dont make one to my knowledge for the Model 60 John Deere
They do.
Chris that sun book should have most of the answers for you on how to test the coil etc. Have the book on the tractor also?
Don't know about Johnny poppers. I'll have to call my expert.
joshcook81
Well-Known Member
I’ll do that this weekend. If I have to get another one I’m thinking of going mechanical. The one I have is a PRP 6060
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
Yeah, ill go thru that book. I've got the tractor book as well. but its vague in that area
ok thanks
is this on a street car? I found with running the electric water pump on the street, it'd draw down the alternator badly once the thermostat opened.
That sun book is great along with that other one I sent you a while ago.
joshcook81
Well-Known Member
Yes it’s a street car.. I installed a tuff stuff high amp alternator because of the draw, but i was thinking of going back down to a 60amp. I keep blowing fuses on my electric water and electric fan.
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
yeah, go mechanical. Some electric pump brands even say in their instructions not for street use. Unless you're scraping for every fraction of a second on a drag strip, they really arent worth the headache or the price.
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