Stop in for a cup of coffee

-
Mattax said:
Here's a '68 diagram showing the main circuits and headlights (Barracuda/Valiant/Dart?).
@dukeboy_318 This is a good example of redrawing a factory diagram to focus on a specific circuit or two.
If there's something here you can't follow, then ask.

View attachment 1715214327
Click to expand...

@dukeboy_318

I copy the pages of the factory service manual that I need and then color/trace the wires that I'm interested in with marker according to the color code...
 
Mattax said:
What's the battery voltage?
What's voltage does the car run at?
Click to expand...

A fully charged battery will be about 12.6 volts...

The car charging system runs between 13.3 - 15 volts... The extra voltage is converted back to recharge the battery from starting the car, or run the electronics...
 
I need memike in da house because I know he has experience with buying a kit from ram man.

that is the kit I am leaning towards

@memike
 
dukeboy_318 said:
ok, as i go through this thing, I will take pics and ask you all. I can see having to splice ends and such for this universal one to work until I track down a complete original harness
Click to expand...

Mopar Tim said:
I wish I were there, you could learn a lot...And I bet I could as well from you.....
Click to expand...

I wish that I had time to go down there this weekend and help him out, but I have things to catch up on at the house...
 
It's a little disturbing when you buy a big ticket item for a car that is more expensive or almost the same price you paid for the whole car.

I already have more into parts for my valiant wagon than I paid for the whole car LOL
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
It's a little disturbing when you buy a big ticket item for a car that is more expensive or almost the same price you paid for the whole car.

I already have more into parts for my valiant wagon than I paid for the whole car LOL
Click to expand...

That's the way it goes...

But you have to spend the money to fix it right or it will give you fits...

It used to be much cheaper to keep them running back in the old days...

When I was younger, you could get most of the parts to fix it either at the parts store or hardware store... Now most of the parts from back then are no longer stocked/carried...
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Just spent 2 hours reading thru all those links and printing out the manual Mattax posted.


I still have one giant question. The headlights for example have two and three wires going into the plugs for them. But the wiring diagram for the polara that I can find shows just one. My universal kit has just one as well how the heck does one get both lights on with just one wire
Click to expand...

You run another wire to the same terminal for the other side light... (they share the same wire in a sense)...

It's the difference between parallel circuit and series circuit... A parallel circuit has constant voltage, and a series circuit has constant current...

For headlights, you want a parallel circuit...
 
krazykuda said:
That's the way it goes...

But you have to spend the money to fix it right or it will give you fits...

It used to be much cheaper to keep them running back in the old days...

When I was younger, you could get most of the parts to fix it either at the parts store or hardware store... Now most of the parts from back then are no longer stocked/carried...
Click to expand...
I don't think everything is too bad priced to a fix a car now a days but I suppose if I was used to prices back then, it would seem like a lot now.

Its just an expensive hobby and either you lay out the cash to get it done or you watch from the spectator benches. Just how it is.

this is my only hobby and what I get up and go to work for so its cool. I am going to get serious about getting my valiant going this winter.

I have the rear end set up with the gears I want and a sure grip.

I have the 4 speed set up ready to go.

Now just the brakes and then get into the body work
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
I don't think everything is too bad priced to a fix a car now a days but I suppose if I was used to prices back then, it would seem like a lot now.

Its just an expensive hobby and either you lay out the cash to get it done or you watch from the spectator benches. Just how it is.

this is my only hobby and what I get up and go to work for so its cool. I am going to get serious about getting my valiant going this winter.

I have the rear end set up with the gears I want and a sure grip.

I have the 4 speed set up ready to go.

Now just the brakes and then get into the body work
Click to expand...

Back in the day, Ace used to carry more fittings and stuff for the fuel lines, trans lines, etc... You could upsize or downsize with different adapters/bushings... Many of them don't carry most of that stuff any more...

They used to carry clutch screwdrivers which are used on the secondary metering plate screws for a Holley... When I moved back to Chicago in 2008, I saw some on clearance and bought them...

Alot of parts on the cars used common hardware store stuff back then... Now they are all specialized parts on today's cars...
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
I need memike in da house because I know he has experience with buying a kit from ram man.

that is the kit I am leaning towards

@memike
Click to expand...

I bought from ram man and he's good at listening to what you are using and recommending what you will need to get it to work... I got my master cylinder and prop valves from him and then went to the spot next to him and bought the steel lines from Fine Lines at the Indy meet many years back...

I am converting my 66 Valiant wagon to disc brakes and using a manual master cylinder... That way I can use any size cam that I like and don't have to worry about vacuum for the power brakes...
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
this looks good

I like that it has the bolts. I hate to be petty but If I am paying that much....I want the bolts included damn it!!!!

after paying that, I shouldn't have to do any leg work IMO

Right Stuff MDC66WKCS: Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit | JEGS
Click to expand...

It's nice to get the proper bolts with the kit...

They can get pretty expensive fast if you have to buy them at the store... Grade 5 or grade 8...

Plus, sometimes the stores do not carry the perfect length, and then you have to determine if you can run the extra thread, or grind some down on a bench grinder so it doesn't bottom out in the hole before clamping the parts together...

You need to get the proper thread engagement for a good hold... Rule of thumb is 1 1/2 times the bolt diameter for the thread length... Example: If you have a 1/2" bolt, then you would want 1/2" + 1/4" = 3/4" of thread length to get a good clamp on the parts...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top