Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Rainy Day Auto said:
A bench seat is comfortable, like a sofa on wheels. Sits up high and gives good visibility.

On the other hand buckets are sporty and can also be comfortable to a degree. They sit lower which is not good.
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memike said:
have to disagree, all these buckets are adjustable to get higher or lower or even closer to the wheel, have you never looked under a set, it's all there and sits great ..
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Yes, depends on your posterior, and yes. LOL
All of the a-body bench seats I've been on place you higher. None have been like a sofa - rather very firm.
The oem buckets in my '68 bacaruda put me lower than I liked for the steering wheel and never did like them for their support.
However the buckets can be made to sit higher. So that's a plus.
One problem with going too high is when wearing a race helmet it can touch the headliner. :( Peple with longer legs this is less of a problem since as the seats are further back there is more room.

I've liked some recaros (from older BMWs) and Flowfit or Flowform buckets, both of which will fit pretty easily. Neither looks quite original, but at least with the seperate moveable headrest their not distractingly out of place.
My .02 and change
 
MOPARMITCH said:
AS if you all didn't already know... This Duster requires all new steel brake, and hose lines...Ya oughta try getting the one in the engine bay, to the right front wheel, with the engine and all still in the car.....:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:
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I've only had to do replace the K-H/MP adjustable prop valve and associated short tubes with the engine in.
Your making me feel much better about not rerouting right side lines when we did the headers. Bad enough I had to add extra shielding. Maybe when the engine is out (not on the schedule) I'll do a reroute of the fuel line.

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Since this came up in another thread.
If any of you are curious as to why some of us dislike the 'MAD bypass', this is the technical picture of why.
It puts all of the current for running the car, the lights, heater fan, and everything but battery recharging through a 16 gage fusible link.
On a cold, rainy, night that's something like 25 - 35 amps continuously through a 16 gage wire. :eek:
At least with Chrysler's routing, that wire was only under high load when the battery had to take over.
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Mattax said:
Since this came up in another thread.
If any of you are curious as to why some of us dislike the 'MAD bypass', this is the technical picture of why.
It puts all of the current for running the car, the lights, heater fan, and everything but battery recharging through a 16 gage fusible link.
On a cold, rainy, night that's something like 25 - 35 amps continuously through a 16 gage wire. :eek:
At least with Chrysler's routing, that wire was only under high load when the battery had to take over.
View attachment 1715217290
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how did chrysler run it?
 
So for Labor Day weekend we have a 2 day high $ event at the oval track :thumbsup:. 3 days if you count the "free to spectators" Friday night practice. :lol:
 
dukeboy_318 said:
I'm thinking of taking my kids to the US Nationals this weekend
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Now there's a plan :thumbsup: . I was just researching two weekends past Labor Day. World of Outlaws 7 hrs north at Silver Dollar in Chico or 4-7 hrs south to San Diego and the unlimited Hydros at Mission Bay. I've never done Chico. Hydros it's been almost 30 yrs.
 
I miss the Hydros...I used to go to Oak Hollow near Hi Point NC for those
 
Oh my !! Found my beer, and if you are wondering if I am enjoying it, yes I am, the wife is off work till Tuesday. Maybe I can get her to help with some wet sanding

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I already removed the fender tag, wet sanded and primed in the top of inner fender, I will soak the tag in thinner and shoot it carefully
 
Try another way.
Take your finger and put it on the alternator output stud.
Assume the engine is running and the voltage at the stud is 14.2 Volts.
Use your finger to trace the path electricity will flow to get to get to the main junction.
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Does it make sense now?
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Yes much much better thank you
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Good!
That black wire you traced with your finger was 12 gage or larger.
Did you notice the current went through just 3 connections?
1. At the stud on alternator - a ring terminal.
2. At the bulkhead - Varies, but usually a Chrysler type spade terminals similar to 'Packard 56'.
3. Main splice. Welded.
When everything is in good condition the only place there might be resistance to the flow of current is the bulkhead connection.
 
While waiting for a decision/ parts all i did was mount a woodworking vise on a bench, added some lumber and plywood. It now has a shelf,and i can move it with a pallet jack.
Next may be a swing out shelf for a tool kit. I need a bench that i can move easy, but has weight and is rigid.
 
While waiting for a decision/ parts all i did was mount a woodworking vise on a bench, added some lumber and plywood. It now has a shelf,and i can move it with a pallet jack.
Next may be a swing out shelf for a tool kit. I need a bench that i can move easy, but has weight and is rigid.
 
Mattax said:
Good!
That black wire you traced with your finger was 12 gage or larger.
Did you notice the current went through just 3 connections?
1. At the stud on alternator - a ring terminal.
2. At the bulkhead - Varies, but usually a Chrysler type spade terminals similar to 'Packard 56'.
3. Main splice. Welded.
When everything is in good condition the only place there might be resistance to the flow of current is the bulkhead connection.
Click to expand...
So where I'm now confused is as to how that is better than the bypass? If there's no resistance at the ammeter, then where would the increased load come from?
 
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