Stroker 340>416 Build Advice

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Psychobob22

Psychobob22

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Hey all!
Building a stroker 340/416 for my 70 Duster 4spd. Already bought the rotating assembly, getting the SCAT 416 all forged with the dished -20.5 cc pistons. Trying to figure out heads/cam and looking for what others have done or had experience with. The car will be a street car running pump gas so I was looking at about 10:1 CR and sticking to AL heads which I believe would be about a 65 cc chamber. Any suggestions on what heads and cam to use?
 
Tell us more about the car, and your intended driving style. Many very knowledgeable people on here, they are going to want to know weight, transmission, gearing, elevation you will be using it, etc, etc. The more info at the start, the less chance of the post going off into the weeds. Budget allowable also helps. Give us a bit more, we will help with answers.

What is expected HP outcome?
 
Psychobob22 said:
Hey all!
Building a stroker 340/416 for my 70 Duster 4spd. Already bought the rotating assembly, getting the SCAT 416 all forged with the dished -20.5 cc pistons. Trying to figure out heads/cam and looking for what others have done or had experience with. The car will be a street car running pump gas so I was looking at about 10:1 CR and sticking to AL heads which I believe would be about a 65 cc chamber. Any suggestions on what heads and cam to use?
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I'd shoot for 9.5 to 9.75 compression. I think that is probably about where you will end up with 20.5 cc dish pistons. Sounds like the same ICON forged pistons I have. My 416 measured out at 9.7:1 with small chamber Edelbrock heads measured actual at 65cc's.

I run 91 octane true everyday pump gas, with 30-32 degrees total advance. More timing and it will ping on steep mountain grades in hot summer.

Warm climate here in valley's of So Cal. Not as hot as Arizona though.
 
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FWIW, I have closed chamber W2 iron heads, with Diamond dished pistons. My compression ratio is 10.12:1, I have no issues with detonation. You are in very safe territory with your suspected compression and aluminum heads, on pump gas. Depending on expected outcome, a set of ported Edelbrock heads work well on street engines. If it were me, I would look into the Trick Flow heads, if the budget allows. Do you intend to run a flat tapped solid, or roller cam? Either way the long arm of the stroker seems to favor narrower lobe separation angles like 106-108, also work well with your 4 speed. As previously stated, stroker engines generally use less total ignition timing, mine is all in at 32 degrees by 21-2200 rpm. Initial timing is 22 degrees. Stroker make so much torque, even with single plane intake you will like it on the street, although people have great success with RPM Air Gap.
 
What is the target goal of the engine in terms of power or the cars 1/4-1/8 mile et? Is there a specific HP number your looking for.

To come here and ask for a cam recommendation is crazy without any information on what the car is doing. I could go on here and make a list of 15 different arenas the engine will perform in.

Are you running from the cops with a trunk load of cocaine?
Or is this a Cannon ball run engine?
We can have some fun here making stuff up LOL!
 
Agree with the others looking for what you really want from the car? Even a mild 416 with iron heads a moderate cam and 3.55's can get you into trouble on the street.:)
 
OldmanRick said:
Agree with the others looking for what you really want from the car? Even a mild 416 with iron heads a moderate cam and 3.55's can get you into trouble on the street.:)
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Thats for **** sure! Big engine & 3.55’s? Sheeeeeit!!!
OOTB Edelbrock up top & ….. etc…. Even a small cam would be a hoot!
 
get the TF heads my 426 stroker was held back with ported ede heads mde over 520 hp 560 tq but ran out of steam at 5800 rpm , heads make or break big cube small blocks
 
A better head! Good idea!

Always get the best head you can afford. The TF’s are affordable & well worth the expense over Edelbrock’s.
 
Doing the same right now. TrickFlow Heads and a custom cam from Mike @ B3 Racing Engines. Look him up!

3.55 gears, pump gas, TKX 5SPD close ratio box, Edelbrock Proflo4 EFI on the top. Looking for north of 500 of both.
 
Have the rotating assembly rebalanced at a good reputable machine shop. Found many packaged rotating assemblies way out of balance from scat. Just a heads up precaution you may want to do before its assembled. My son just had a pro balanced FE Ford 28 grams out. That was the worst one so far. Within 3 grams is good . Zero is the ultimate.
 
If your hp goals are subject to grow, bug all the cylinder head you can get.
 
I will offer a budget-minded approach..
Wait till Black Friday and get a set of speed master heads fully loaded for $700 to your door... I have a set pretty much out of the box on my 410 stroker and find them more than adequate for the street...
I have a four-speed with 355 gears and I've found a cam now with 234 duration is about as much as I want to allow it to idle and pull out of corners in second gear...
I'm set up with a hundred shot but have never found the need for it on the street...
This isn't a max horsepower build... I had the high duration cam the 410 gears and a set of factory heads that were all ported and such and it was fun on the track but on the street it just became uncomfortable...
 
Speed Master heads?
Might as well bolt on a set of iron 308’s!
:rofl:
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Have the rotating assembly rebalanced at a good reputable machine shop. Found many packaged rotating assemblies way out of balance from scat. Just a heads up precaution you may want to do before its assembled. My son just had a pro balanced FE Ford 28 grams out. That was the worst one so far. Within 3 grams is good . Zero is the ultimate.
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28 grams off ?? wow that is bad never had a problem with my molnar cranks they were all dead nuts on . Luck of the draw
 
Thanks for the response so far! To answer some of the questions:
Weight of the car is unknown but Id imagine pretty close to stock as not a whole lot has been done to customize it.
Gearing right now it has a sure grip 3.73 741 case which I want to get a 742/489 case with probably 3.55 to get closer to highway speeds at not a ridiculous rpm and make it stronger for the higher hp engine.
Elevation is between 1kft-3.5kft
As for hp after reading other posts Id be happy with 450-500hp I dont really intend on dragging much or doing cannonball runs haha
 
Psychobob22 said:
Thanks for the response so far! To answer some of the questions:
Weight of the car is unknown but Id imagine pretty close to stock as not a whole lot has been done to customize it.
Gearing right now it has a sure grip 3.73 741 case which I want to get a 742/489 case with probably 3.55 to get closer to highway speeds at not a ridiculous rpm and make it stronger for the higher hp engine.
Elevation is between 1kft-3.5kft
As for hp after reading other posts Id be happy with 450-500hp I dont really intend on dragging much or doing cannonball runs haha
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Do you need vacuum to operated power brakes?

What's your carb tuning skills? Like do you prefer a cam nice vacuum signal?

Do you want an hydraulic cam? Solid, Roller?

This will not see any regular drag strip time? Just a street cruiser something you could drive from Tucson to Phoenix in? ~100 hwy miles

What is your rear tire size (diameter)?

Do you home pocket port your own heads? Or would that be something you'd hire out? Could you take apart a set of heads to inspect them and reassemble?

Are you assembling this motor or paying someone else?
 
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Psychobob22 said:
Thanks for the response so far! To answer some of the questions:
Weight of the car is unknown but Id imagine pretty close to stock as not a whole lot has been done to customize it.
Gearing right now it has a sure grip 3.73 741 case which I want to get a 742/489 case with probably 3.55 to get closer to highway speeds at not a ridiculous rpm and make it stronger for the higher hp engine.
Elevation is between 1kft-3.5kft
As for hp after reading other posts Id be happy with 450-500hp I dont really intend on dragging much or doing cannonball runs haha
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A set of mildly ported Edelbrock heads will certainly fit the bill, a nice solid flat tappet cam, and RPM air gap intake will easily meet those requirements. Do yourself a favor and get a custom ground cam whatever you do, well worth the minor price difference. Call Bullet Cams, Mike Jones Cams, Racer Brown Cams. If unsure, err on the smaller side of recommended Cams.

You didn't ask about carbs, for a street car actually driven, I would highly recommend an Edelbrock 800 AVS2, pn# 1913 with electric choke, 1912 with manual. Excellent driveability, mileage, performance, and easy to tune.
 
autoxcuda said:
Do you need vacuum to operated power brakes?

What's your carb tuning skills? Like do you prefer a cam nice vacuum signal?

Do you want an hydraulic cam? Solid, Roller?

This will not see any regular drag strip time? Just a street cruiser something you could drive from Tucson to Phoenix in? ~100 hwy miles

What is your rear tire size (diameter)?
Click to expand...

I think the booster I have is vacuum. Im checking details now.
Carb tuning skills are beginner but I have mechanic friends who can help me with that stuff (Im a newbie with a lot of this stuff still)
As for the cam type I know nothing about that so Id love some education if you're willing?
Yeah cruising around/going up to Phoenix is what I really want.
Rear tire size is approx 26" tall
 
I’m thinking a hydraulic cam in the low/mid 240 @050 deg duration range with under .525” lift and 110 centerline. That should give you enough vacuum to run power brakes. Contact Bullet cams they are really great. They can dial something in to work with you power brakes.

Then with Edelbrock heads. Or maybe Trick Flows because they are already ported and can just be bolted on? Or is that not cost effective for this level of build?

For intake: an Edelbrock RPM or Air-Gap.

Carb would be a 750 double pump.

Headers: TTI or Dougs


Friend just built a person with about your skills a 500 inch big block stroker (440 based) with ported Edelbrock heads. Owner is young guy super willing to learn, but first time engine build. Cam was a Bullet Cam with around 245+/- @050 duration with 110 centerline and under .525" lift. Has 13-15 inches of vacuum at idle. Will run power brakes if needed.

That was a solid cam with EDM lifters, but the owner is under heavy guidance/mentorship from builder (a fellow car club member) for help adjusting valves.

My 416 had ported Edelbrock and Comp 236/242 duration @050 with ~.510 lift solid cam, double pumper. Not quite as good vacuum at that Bullet Cam. I'm Very pleased with it. Easy to deal with.
 
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Nat said:
28 grams off ?? wow that is bad never had a problem with my molnar cranks they were all dead nuts on . Luck of the draw
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He said “Scat” material. (Chink….)
You said “Molnar”, made in the USA correct.
Now it’s all down to who did the work. Or didn’t…
 
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