Stroker 340>416 Build Advice
- Thread starter Psychobob22
- Start date
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Getting better head is always a good thing
TXOval
340 stroked to 416
I recently got my 416 build on the road, 66 Barracuda.
Forged Eagle kit, h-beam rods, Mahle -5 pistons.
CNC Hyd Roller speed master heads
Airgap Dual plane, Holley Super Sniper
Comp XE Hyd Roller cam, 280/288 .541” lift, 110 LSA
Mine is an automatic with 3.73 rear gears, 3000 stall.
Makes a ton of torque down low and blows the tires off. I shift at 5800 rpms
Forged Eagle kit, h-beam rods, Mahle -5 pistons.
CNC Hyd Roller speed master heads
Airgap Dual plane, Holley Super Sniper
Comp XE Hyd Roller cam, 280/288 .541” lift, 110 LSA
Mine is an automatic with 3.73 rear gears, 3000 stall.
Makes a ton of torque down low and blows the tires off. I shift at 5800 rpms
So I got the Howard's 711133-08 cam to utilize the .700 lift capability of my trick flow 190 heads with 1.6 ratio rockers but after looking at LS cams with larger lobe separations and intake center lines I'm thinking I could have gotten the same power out of a custom cam grind with a better operating range, with 10.5:1 dished pistons I'm wondering what this cam will be like on the street. I'm running Proflo4 EFI, TKX wide ratio 5-speed with 3.23 gears and 275 45 17, I'm not interested in doing any low speed driving but I also want to be able to cruise at 2000 RPM in 5th gear on the freeway without having drivability problems. Has anyone run this particular combination or can tell me what I might expect? I want to utilize all the potential power this can make but I don't want it to be undriveable on the street.
The narrow centerline helps low speed torque.
A dyno would be required to maximize torque down low.
After the header pipes come to the collector point, maintain the collector diameter for as long as the dyno reading shows a higher low rpm torque output.
Ideally speaking, after this length is found, you would want to use a pressure wave cancellation box that maintains the same height as the collector pipe and is of as many cubic inches as the engine for each pressure wave cancellation box for the drivers and passenger side.
The shape should be a done but a straight up rectangle is fine. At the exhaust end of this box, connect the rest of your exhaust. Inside the rectangle box, floor to ceiling and about 1/2 the length of the box at most install (weld in) walls to help direct the exhaust out into the rest of the system.
From there, at a minimum, use a muffler that has the same size diameter pipe as the collector. For further sound cancellation, add a glass pack, of the same or larger diameter as the collector pipe.
This does two things, the pressure wave cancellation box mimics exhaust exiting open air exhaust exiting (like a dyno) and the muffflers somewhat there supposed to do, glass packs do it further for you.
The pressure wave cancellation box maximizes torque (& HP) and the rest is sound deadening. Use the best flowing muffler possible for power everywhere.
What tube size is the headers?
What size engine?
What style cam?
What size engine?
What style cam?
Ok, you screwed yourself and will stay there until you rework your exhaust. Throwing away an easy 40+ ft. lbs. of torque is on you. Totally ridiculous to ask for help and throw it away.
If you actually feel like your 416 has a lack of torque, revisit the reply above. Also add in, headers to small. Next size up is what you need for more torque.
More torque, more mileage.
Sell the entire system and get the next size up header and work the exhaust system like I said.
I bought the exhaust for the 318 that's in it now, been running it for years. Haven't even assembled the 416 yet and just wondering if I should run a different cam, I could redo the exhaust but I'd like to at least drive it first so I have some kind of baseline. I do appreciate the advice, the cam is still in the box so that's one thing I could possibly exchange easily.
With your replies and steadfast way, I got nothin!
Be stubborn and do it your way. Have fun.
Be stubborn and do it your way. Have fun.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
First off, don't worry about the .700 lift numbers. I'd be concerned about the 104 cl vs a 2k cruise rpm. That said, keeping your current exhaust, i think you'd be plenty happy with 250ish at .050, low 600'' or so lift cut on a 110/112 cl.
With cam availability these days, it may require a custom grind.
Good luck with it. It's gonna be a blast to drive.
With cam availability these days, it may require a custom grind.
Good luck with it. It's gonna be a blast to drive.
First off, don't worry about the .700 lift numbers. I'd be concerned about the 104 cl vs a 2k cruise rpm. That said, keeping your current exhaust, i think you'd be plenty happy with 250ish at .050, low 600'' or so lift cut on a 110/112 cl.
With cam availability these days, it may require a custom grind.
Good luck with it. It's gonna be a blast to drive.
Like his cam a lot. It seems to read 106*-LSA. By the Gizard numbers, it should be 105.xx. The single degree will never be seen/noticed. That cam will hand out maximum torque for its LSA. The 78* of overlap is in the street strip category. Once the engine is off of idle, it’ll operate just fine. He will be above 2K at low and cruise speeds. With the 5spd he has, he’ll have no worries.
I think he’ll be fine as built. But since he asked about more torque….. I answered. To improve on what he has, I gave the part changes needed. IMO, he should bunless it with what he has and if he think he needs more torque, he can use my parts list for more torque and up top hp.
IMO, that’s going to be a nice engine and be a lot of fun in the street.
I bought a cam through Mike at B3 Racing, spec'd by him, Howard's did it. Hyd roller, just trying to remember, I'm not at home, duration is in the 220-230 range, 565 liftish with 1.6 rocker arms, installed at 106 cl, 418 cu in, trick flows, same headers, 2 1/2" exhaust, Sixpack, 4-speed, 3:55 gears with 255-60-15's. It's a torque monster to about 5700. You , in my opinion have a lot of cam for the street, but I am not an engine builder. The whole thing gets annoying driving at 2500 rpm, but I am a 74 yr old with sensitive hearing.
furrystump
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I’m running low 11’s through a 2.5” full exhaust system. Muffler choice was pretty important, 2/10’s improvement going to a Pypes Racepro’s The headers? I have no idea which would be better. I run manifolds.
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