Suggestions for new design Aluminum Mopar SB clean slate (kind of) cylinder heads

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I’m telling you Chevy guys are cheap. They put them together and either run 10’s or blow them up with their turbos.
A lot are. Some arent. I just helped my friend move his camaro, 430 stroker with Trick Flow 245cc cathedral port heads. Easy 650 horsepower with the FAST lsx intake. Probably would be over 700 if would talk himself into cutting the cowl and hood to clear a better intake. Grew up Mopar but gave up on it when he wanted to go faster and there was nothing availible reasonably priced.
 
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Ok here’s a quick diagram of a Speedmaster that window is big enough to flow 330 cfm with a 2,08 valve. If I needed more area it’s there as this is measured at the pinch. I could push the common wall over some without sacrificing my divider witch I refuse to narrow. This is gasket matched to an Edelbrock gadget so I could cut the gasket and go up some and remove some of the upgrade on the floor slightly. Maybe I should ovalize it and make it as good as a fifty year old W2. Lol

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Sadly, that 50 year old design is still 50 years ahead of that square port.

Go look around at race heads. They all have an oval shape to them.

I don‘t know why you have a hard on for a head that is better than ANY conventional head we can get. Just makes zero sense.
 
Sadly, that 50 year old design is still 50 years ahead of that square port.

Go look around at race heads. They all have an oval shape to them.

I don‘t know why you have a hard on for a head that is better than ANY conventional head we can get. Just makes zero sense.


Only because they are heavy, no longer made, and the parts are so rare. How fast did your old car go, at what weight, and what track. I just can’t understand why your W2 lovers don’t give the Indy 360-2 the love it should get. I lost my love for W2 heads when my set cracked and became scrap landfill material.
 
Only because they are heavy, no longer made, and the parts are so rare. How fast did your old car go, at what weight, and what track. I just can’t understand why your W2 lovers don’t give the Indy 360-2 the love it should get. I lost my love for W2 heads when my set cracked and became scrap landfill material.
I would love to give the Indy's a chance, but not at 5k a set.
 
You could make a stainless steel rocker assembly mini shaft mount like the hughes engine ones for those wanting shaft style and still have oil through push rods. Just please heli coil all threads, help keep threads from stripping.

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You could make a stainless steel rocker assembly mini shaft mount like the hughes engine ones for those wanting shaft style and still have oil through push rods.
Thats true, could even do an offset to get the pushrod out of the port.
 
Not sure if it has been mentioned, but like the head hitting the stock alternator, the stock drivers side 68 340
exhaust manifold can hit the head on the eddy heads. Where it goes back towards the head between the steering shaft and head. Years ago I had the issue. Had to run a header flange to space the manifold out to clear. Something pretty easy to address at your point in the process. Thanks for working on the project.
 
Only because they are heavy, no longer made, and the parts are so rare. How fast did your old car go, at what weight, and what track. I just can’t understand why your W2 lovers don’t give the Indy 360-2 the love it should get. I lost my love for W2 heads when my set cracked and became scrap landfill material.

I agree 100% that cast iron sucks, it’s heavy, it’s MISERABLE to port and all that. It is what it is.

I‘m not sure what’s hard to get for them though. I see the stuff all the time.

At 2780 with me in it, the car would run (with W2 heads) 139-141 MPH (went quicker and faster on W5’s years later) in the 9.50’s-9.70’s depending on the weather at Woodburn. There was some left in the clutch and chassis but not much. That was on 340 inches.

I have no issue with Indy 360-1 or -2’s. They never come up.

Some of the later W2 castings came through with dowel pin holes not drilled deep enough. If it wasn’t caught when they were torqued down they would crack, or they would crack after a few heat cycles.

You seriously don’t believe that aluminum heads don’t leak, fracture and have pin hole issues do you? You had one head (or a set) fail and you condemn the whole lot?
 
Thats the qoute I got from them a couple weeks ago over the phone, for a set of 230 cnc's. Then on top of that they take an indy only rocker.

T&D makes rockers for that head. Maybe Jesel too but I forget.

Thats one issue with those heads. They use OE style
saddles. Luckily you can use a B3 correction kit if you want to change the geometry or need longer (or even shorter) valves.

If I was doing it I’d skip all that and just use T&D.
 
I agree 100% that cast iron sucks, it’s heavy, it’s MISERABLE to port and all that. It is what it is.

I‘m not sure what’s hard to get for them though. I see the stuff all the time.

At 2780 with me in it, the car would run (with W2 heads) 139-141 MPH (went quicker and faster on W5’s years later) in the 9.50’s-9.70’s depending on the weather at Woodburn. There was some left in the clutch and chassis but not much. That was on 340 inches.

I have no issue with Indy 360-1 or -2’s. They never come up.

Some of the later W2 castings came through with dowel pin holes not drilled deep enough. If it wasn’t caught when they were torqued down they would crack, or they would crack after a few heat cycles.

You seriously don’t believe that aluminum heads don’t leak, fracture and have pin hole issues do you? You had one head (or a set) fail and you condemn the whole lot?

So .020 slower than me and 100
Pounds lighter. A stroker is worth about .020 so the great W2 head isn’t showing me much and if I remember you shifted at 8500 to my 6700-6800. Hmmmmm.
 
Something that always bothered me and I meant to ask them at a race but always forget. Indy says the 440-1 rocker fits the 360-1 and 360-2 Indy heads. Harland Sharp offers a rocker for the 440-1 head but zero listings for the 360-1 and 360-2. I sold my old Indy 360-1 rockers as I bought a lightly used set of T&D rockers after his engine blew up on the dyno and he switched to big block. One of these days I’ll grab a Harland sharp small block shaft and see if my 440-1 Harland Sharp rockers work on my 360-1’s.
 
ET is king to me. 9.30 beats a 9.50 in my world. I no longer run 1/4 mile but maybe I’ll cut loose some test n tune and wind it up to 7000-7200.


MPH is horsepower, ET is hook. I was doing that in 1991-1992 with non adjustable shocks, an outdated clutch and a cam that Brookshire shoved up my butt that was probably 30 HP down on average.

At 9.3xx you need to be up at 145 MPH.
 
MPH is horsepower, ET is hook. I was doing that in 1991-1992 with non adjustable shocks, an outdated clutch and a cam that Brookshire shoved up my butt that was probably 30 HP down on average.

At 9.3xx you need to be up at 145 MPH.


My 422 with a solid lifter cam, ported 360-1 heads, and 4.88 gears, and a 850 carb ran out of guts around 900 feet and ran 9.38@138mph. This engine pulls so much harder than that engine did. Both ran exactly the same (5.98) in the 1/8.
 
MPH is horsepower, ET is hook. I was doing that in 1991-1992 with non adjustable shocks, an outdated clutch and a cam that Brookshire shoved up my butt that was probably 30 HP down on average.

At 9.3xx you need to be up at 145 MPH.


And if you say you were traction limited a spin also creates higher mph. Lower ET.
 
Yea, that -2 head is a nice piece. It’s an improved W2 head in aluminum.
unless somebody had W2 heads laying around, not any advantage to running them vs an Indy that I can see.
 
My 422 with a solid lifter cam, ported 360-1 heads, and 4.88 gears, and a 850 carb ran out of guts around 900 feet and ran 9.38@138mph. This engine pulls so much harder than that engine did. Both ran exactly the same (5.98) in the 1/8.

Ok, got my time frame off. From 1990-1992 the car was running 138-140 MPH and 9.70’s and 9.80’s.

I didn’t race in 1993-1995 and in 1996 it ran those numbers above.
 
And if you say you were traction limited a spin also creates higher mph. Lower ET.

I didn’t say that. You’re trying to measure dicks here and I don’t care.

Had I been a sissy boy I’d have put a powerglide in it and dropped the ET to right where you were. I’d rather burn the car to the ground and go play golf than do that and I hate golf. Hell, I’d rather go fishing than run a powerglide.

All that struggle made me a better tuner today.

Put a 3rd pedal in your car and watch it slow down. And then try and figure out how to get it back with non adjustable shocks and an outdated clutch.

I was at the track a lot back then and there weren’t many 9 second small blocks out there. Especially not at 340 inches.
 
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I didn’t say that. You’re trying to measure dicks here and I don’t care.

Had I been a sissy boy I’d have put a powerglide in it and dropped the ET to right where you were. I’d rather burn the car to the ground and go play golf than do that and I hate golf. Hell, I’d rather go fishing than run a powerglide.

All that struggle made me a better tuner today.

Put a 3rd pedal in your car and watch it slow down. And then try and figure out how to get it back with non adjustable shocks and an outdated clutch.

O was at the track a lot back then and there weren’t many 9 second small blocks out there. Especially not at 340 inches.

Typical retired racer talk. Yada yada yada. Lol
 
Typical retired racer talk. Yada yada yada. Lol


Yep. And typical bracket racer bullshit. If you had any balls you’d put a 3rd pedal in the car and show me ho to do it.

Of course, you cold write some checks and I’d come out of retirement. But you won’t do that either.
 
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